Making Your Own Portable Circular Saw Guide Rail

[jedmc571]

Hello,

Whilst looking through Screwfix catalogue I came accross 7mm PVCU nail on fascia baord, and a lightbulb apeared above my head :idea:

My current idea, and it's vague at the moment, first think of the fascia board lay flat, and the lip which is approx 18mm high is on the left sticking up ( so it's a straight 90 degree ) the falt bit will be just over the width of my saw soleplate.

1. Glue a small piece of mdf approx 18 x 10mm to the angle to stengthen it and stop it flexing when pushing the saw against it.

2. On top of that little MDF off cut I'll put some 19 x 19mm ally angle on as a rubbing/wear strip.

3. 2 small 25 x 7mm off cuts will act as runners for the sole plate ? but thinking of some sort of bearing system on the sole plate :?: or might even keep it simple and use Trend's ultraglide tape.

4. On the under side, Screwfix do a 65mm anti slip tape for carpet/rugs, a couple of narrow strips underneath should help it remain in position, still need to work on an end clamping idea :?:

5. Simply run the saw through it as with all the other types, and hopefully I'll have a lightweight version.

Obviously it needs more thought, but the general idean is there, I figured that PVCU would give little resistance and should be ok.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Jed,

I think that idea has legs!

The trouble with all the home-made versions, whatever the material, is that the guide only guides the saw in one direction. All (I think all, anyway) the pro versions stop it wandering away from the rail as well as preventing it cutting too far in.

That's a big advantage.

But you have little to lose by trying it, so let us know how you get on!

 

[jedmc571]

Cheers Steve, that's praise indeed

I understand what you mean about the saw wandering
It did cross my mind when I was thinking about with the bearing guidance, obviously with spherical bearings it would be like ice skating, so I will have a look.

I even thought about a magnetic system to pull the saw back to the guide :?:

Now I'm just getting ahead of myself :lol:

regards

Jed

 

[Colin C]

Jed

PM sent

 

[manso]

May I just echo the excellent point Steve Maskery makes about the length of the sawboard. If your circular saw has a base of around 300mm then, in order to avoid starting with a plunge cut rather than just a plunge, I would argue for at least 300-400mm over and above the length to be cut, i.e. 1600mm or even a bit north when cutting 48"(1220mm) and 2800mm or even a bit north when cutting 96" (2440mm).
I have two 1400 Festool rails which, when linked, work well when cutting 96", but I find a single rail too short to safely cut 48" and would have preferred either a 1600mm or even 1700mm.