Making use of old grinding wheels

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kreed

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I've a variety of old wheels (some going to Wildman as a donation) & rather than bin I would like to put to some use.
They're quite big, various centre sizes & various grades.

Can I utilise as grinding stones; can I cut into smaller manageable pieces, can I do anything with them??

I don't really want to bin them, but only Wildman responded to a swap offer. Anyone local to Bedford can collect if they're no use to me.
 
My dad used to have half of an old grinding wheel, used for sharpening gardening tools. I think it probably belonged to his father. So reckon on each stone lasting a couple of lifetimes.
On the other hand, if you need to sharpen your scythe, you can buy an equivalent 'cigar stone' for a couple of quid, new, so the savings will be rather small!
 
In an industrial or commercial setting, the answer would be very simple - break them up and bin them. The ONLY safe speed for old grinding wheels of unknown provenance is zero.

However, in a home environment, there may be a little more latitude. Unless you really know what you're doing with grinders, it's probably wise to avoid putting them on a grinding machine, certainly without a satisfactory ring test first. (That's holding the wheel on a stick or similar through the bore, and tapping it to see if it 'rings' - a dull ring means it's cracked, and not safe for machine use. However, unless you've had a demonstration to hear the difference between a good and a cracked wheel, it's probably best to assume it's cracked.)

You could use them in a home-built hand or foot powered grinder, though. The risk from a wheel disassembling itself is rather less at hand-cranked speed than at full motor-driven pelt, and the larger size wheels might make a rather useful piece of kit.
 
Are they slow running waterstone wheels or high speed grinder wheels?

A slow running waterstone does not send pieces flying anywhere if it cracks and there are hardly any centrifugal forces on it at that low speed. Old waterstone wheels are very useful in a woodworking shop. They tend to wear out over time so if you are still young you should keep a spare or two plus one for the grandkids. Theese wheels are fairly expensive to buy new. They should be stored indoors and the watertrough must be emptied or lowered after use. Coarser grades are generally more useful than finer grades.
It is fairly easy to build an electrical low speed grinder. I use mine a lot. I sharpen axes and chisels and knives and sometimes plane irons on it. An old industrial washing machine or an old horse drawn sicle bar mower make good starting points for a build.
A grinder like this makes even the most expensive Tormek model seem like an inefficient child's toy.

If they are high speed grinding wheels I would probably throw them away. At that high speed anything may happen if a wheel fails.
 
I think old grinding wheels would be ideal for use in hand cranked grinders.
 
Received today the generous gift of grinding wheels, many thanks. Having spent most of my life in an industrial setting I have the experience to determine what is safe and the safe practices involved in using second hand wheels of unknown origin. The really fine grit wheels that do not ring true are best broken into slivers for hand dressing lathe tools in situ They arrived just as I had finished making the stops and guards, grit catchers etc on my new (60 year old) surface grinder. I am fascinated by old machinery and chose it over modern counterparts. My next problem to solve is where to site a belt driven 3mt drill, I fear I may have to sell my 3phase floor standing pillar drill and a spare compressor to make space. After inheriting my FIL's workshop contents and those of my Brother in law, both of whom died within 6 months of each other I do have a number of duplicate items that will be for sale because I need the space some woodworking and some metal working machines.
 
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