Making Stair Housings

[DavidE]

I am currently looking at building some Oak stairs with/for a friend. The setup is quite straightforward two runs about 7ft long with 7 or so treads. I would like to cut housings into the stringers. I have a couple of books notably Carpentry and Joinery by Peter Brett and Taunton’s Building Stairs. These contain some good tips and techniques. I am quite happy with the general method of cutting tapered slots and knocking wedges in…

One thing neither book mentions though I’ve seen it once on here and also seen the router cutters is the practice of dovetailing the housing, as opposed to a straight joint. The drawing shows my understanding of how this works (no wedges shown).

I’m confused though – I can see the dovetail has the potential for a tight joint as when the wedges are knocked in the wood will compress and almost dig into the tread. However, I wonder if this runs the risk of damaging the wood fibres along the sharp edge? Also, depending how much it compresses – you’re only making use of the part depth of the housing.

Am I just being paranoid here or are there any other tricks to remember when doing this?

Also I am wondering about open plan stairs for the top level. I have been looking for some wisdom on this. Part of me thinks a full housing would be okay – then I worry about expansion. If I tenon the ends slightly this runs the risk of showing gaps, I have thought about half housings as well though they all seem to have the same problem. One design I have seen shows wedged through tenons I’d rather not have anything showing on the outside of the stringer though. Are there any top tips for this?

Thanks, David

 

[lugo35]

i always used to cut straight sided housings anf wedge the treads in never had any probs with movment.
as for open rise , same thing really house full width and glue and screw
suppose it depends on the timber but like i say not had any probs
have got to do an open rise shortly . will be making it out for southern yellow pine the way i have mentioned

 

[DavidE]

Thanks for your reply Lugo, that's good to know. When you glued the open rise - did you screw from underneath or screw and plug on the top?

Cheers, David

 

[EdK]

I looked into this (post under projects & design on this forum) and the dovetail cutters are 5 degrees I think.

I didn't have one so pared off a bit by hand. The fit is nice and tight now. If I was doing it again I'd go for a slight undercut.
Ed

 

[Digit]

I'm one of the awkward squad (again). I don't use housings at all!
The first time I had the task a retired carpenter suggested that I forgo 'all that nonsense' and glue and screw 25mm square battens to the strings and attach the treads and risers to them.
They are still there and, don't squeak, 20 yrs later.

Roy.

 

[Mcluma]

I'm one of the awkward squad (again). I don't use housings at all!
The first time I had the task a retired carpenter suggested that I forgo 'all that nonsense' and glue and screw 25mm square battens to the strings and attach the treads and risers to them.
They are still there and, don't squeak, 20 yrs later.

Roy.

Same here (just it for the cabin)

Ok this method is not for the beauty price, but it does the job perfect and fast

 

[chippy1970]

Most of the staircases I fit have straight edged housings and not the angled type you mention. I have seen the cutters for these but I think most joinery shops cut them straight.

 

[DavidE]

Thanks for all the input - I think I'll go for the straight housings if and when I make them based on the comments on joinery shops.

It's good to hear the simple baton on the stringer approach works. I shall remember that for more utility stairs.

Cheers
David