Making Sprung Bed Slats

[sams93]

Hi,

I'm planning to build a super king (1800W x 2000L) bed at the end of October. Bed itself will be oak. I have been doing some reading about the bed slats, and as I understand sprung slats are considered to be the better option.

I was wondering whether it is simpler to just purchase them already made, but if it isn't too much work to make them then I would consider it,

I would be grateful to hear if anyone has any experience either way.

Thanks

 

[dzj]

I only make the solid kind. If a client wants sprung ones, I tell them that Ikea sells those for 30 Euros.
Their choice.

 

[TheUnicorn]

I'm assuming that a sprung slat is several layers laminated together then clamped at an exact curve, once dry rounder over on a router table, rinse and repeat.

Unless is is steamed and cooled in an arch?

Either way doing 30 odd to the exact same curve and tension seems like way to much work, and cost, for something that is covered by a mattress. I'd go shopping

 

[Sgian Dubh]

I'm planning to build a super king (1800W x 2000L) bed at the end of October. Bed itself will be oak. I have been doing some reading about the bed slats, and as I understand sprung slats are considered to be the better option.

Personally, I've never seen a need to use sprung slats in any of the beds I've made. My feelings (with no empirical proof) are that sprung slats might have some benefits in cases where they are coupled with a poor quality, and possibly thin mattress. Good quality mattresses just need a decent flat base such as a platform or straight slats, again, just my belief.

However, if you decide you really must have sprung slats the quickest and cheapest option would most likely be something like these options from IKEA rather than making them yourself from scratch. The IKEA ones wouldn't necessarily be better or worse than what you might make, but they'd certainly be cheaper, and quite possibly they'd be with you and ready to incorporate into a bed frame within a day or two. Slainte.

 

[Sideways]

I built a couple of single beds and fitted ikea bent beech slats because they are so cheap to buy vs make.

Later, shopping for premium matresses all the companies advised that their product should be used on solid bases and slats if present should be boarded over.

The steel brackets stand out ugly in this photo. The rails are mallet tight mortice and tenoned into the head and foot but are left dry and rely on the brackets and bolts to pull them tight. I wanted a knock down joint that was invisible from the outside surfaces unlike bed bolts but more rigid than proprietary steel bed brackets.

 

[sams93]

Thanks all for your advice. I am planning to use Simba/Emma/Eve mattress, so from what has been explained above I might be fine or even better off with simple flat slats.

Now then 3/4" ply or 1/2" is the next wquestion!

 

[Sideways]

Simba recommend flat sheet.
Be aware, Simba matresses stink ! My wife wouldn't spend one night in it. I slept alone for a month until I could get them to take the damn thing away and it still stunk. Then they sat on the refund for as long as they reasonably could. I would wholeheartedly not recommend it as good value nor eco friendly. My immaculate mattress, used with a topper for 30 days probably ended up on ebay at 25% of what I paid for it.
Oh, and they're hard. Smooth because of the micro coil springs, but hard.

 

[starlingwood]

Use beech with thickness of 12mm. You will need a central rail running head to foot as well with a large bed.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Use beech with thickness of 12mm. You will need a central rail running head to foot as well with a large bed.

Hm? With a width span of ~1800 mm I'd recommend slats of about twice that thickness, i.e., ~24 - 25 mm plus, and as you say, a central longitudinal tie bar at about 35 - 38 mm thick to possibly fit some sort of standard hardware, perhaps of the type below available from Hafele and other suppliers. I've used, amongst other species, poplar (aka tulip wood) for slats and tie bars, it being cheaper at the time than other species, and available PAR from the timber merchant thus saving me machining time. There's never been a problem of sagging or breakage with any large double beds (King, Queen, for e.g.) I've made using this wood species. Slainte.

 

[loc0]

Simba recommend flat sheet.
Be aware, Simba matresses stink ! My wife wouldn't spend one night in it. I slept alone for a month until I could get them to take the damn thing away and it still stunk. Then they sat on the refund for as long as they reasonably could. I would wholeheartedly not recommend it as good value nor eco friendly. My immaculate mattress, used with a topper for 30 days probably ended up on ebay at 25% of what I paid for it.
Oh, and they're hard. Smooth because of the micro coil springs, but hard.

Hmm a different experience with Simba for me. We left our mattress to get to its shape after unpacking, which was all the hassle I remember. My partner did not complain about the smell and she is pretty sensitive when it comes to scents. Mattress stiffness is a personal thing. Recently we were on holiday and the only downside was the soft mattress - spine was happy to come back to slipping on simba

 

[sams93]

Hm? With a width span of ~1800 mm I'd recommend slats of about twice that thickness, i.e., ~24 - 25 mm plus, and as you say, a central longitudinal tie bar at about 35 - 38 mm thick to possibly fit some sort of standard hardware, perhaps of the type below available from Hafele and other suppliers. I've used, amongst other species, poplar (aka tulip wood) for slats and tie bars, it being cheaper at the time than other species, and available PAR from the timber merchant thus saving me machining time. There's never been a problem of sagging or breakage with any large double beds (King, Queen, for e.g.) I've made using this wood species. Slainte.

Yes I’m thinking of using one of these, and 3/4” ply slats - I guess I can always put the slats closer together if needed to support the mattress better should the material thickness not be sufficient.

 

[sploo]

I don't think plywood would be a good option - you want the strength across the width of the bed (meaning strips of wood, preferably with reasonably straight grain). With plywood, every second layer will be oriented the "wrong way" for the load they're experiencing.

 

[sams93]

Will the fact that the layers are laminated not be what gives the longditudional strength and resistance to bending?

Although the full bed is 1800mm wide, there is a central bar too, so that would mean each slat is only 900 long.