Making old beaded T&G joints with planes

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Making a cot stand. Basket sits in top. Rolls around on wheels etc. Misses thinks its a waste of time. Should just make a normal cot instead she says. But, thats not what this other bloke wants.

There's a couple of shelves that he wanted just ply inserted in. But, I had some offcut strips of silky oak that I wanted to find use for. So I thought I'd use that instead.

The only way I felt I could use these strips is with T&G joints running in grooves. So, I took some photos as I went. Thought , it be nice to see others find practical use for these planes.
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Many ways to skin a cat. So this is just a example of how you could do it. I usually kinda fall into joint making, often started simply by which plane I see first on the shelf. An approach that has got me into trouble more than once. :lol:

Anyway the panels go in grooves like so (excuse, some of the pictures are a bit blurry...there's no way I can re-take these photo's now)
Basically, a rebate in the end grain slots into the groove
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You can cut them cross grain if you like with a spurred plane, but lately I've found these much faster cut dropping straight into the end grain with a deep face on the fence and a tearout board clamped tight
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You can use any rebate plane....I prefer my 289 because it can take a heavier cut I've noticed with the thick blade I've installed.
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So, I put a rebate into both ends of each panel..... must remember to cut off square the tearout board before every cut, else it won't back out properly
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You can do many at once if you like. But I didn't want to stuff about today since it can be fiddly I've found ensuring they don't slide out of alignment.

End grain stuff done.....cut the T&G. Setup 4 planes for this. Actually you only need 3 really, but I didn't bother to centre the plough cut right, so I needed two different depthed rebates.

just a little fillister I made to cut the first rebate
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Then I beaded it......normally I'd bead first for better fence bearing, but I hadn't sharpened the left side of the blade properly for centre beads, so it could be messy. So I cleared the left side first with a rebate, and it was ok....beads are decrotive anyway.
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This ones a bad shot...sorry.....Just a 78 rebate cutting a rebate on the other side to form the tongue .....cutting down with the timber held vertically.... quick stable way of doing a rebate. Would have been better to do the first rebate this way too. But I didn't put much planning into it.
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Flip it and do the matching plough. My personal reminder, especially since its not centred properly, is to run fence on the right side !....
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End up with this sort of thing.
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Still don't like the look of it. But it looks better than ply, and I used up some offcuts....which is hard work eh. Like most I save most offcuts, but they often arn't used and just take up space. :lol:
 
Lovely work, Jake =D> It's really interesting seeing all your hand-planing techniques coming together so well.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Hi Jake,
I don't contribute much to your threads but I find them very interesting and inspiring. My specialty planes have certainly seen more use in recent months thanks to you. You've even got me hunting for a 55 now... :wink:
 
Thanks Paul and Frank. Fun and games.

The things gone now. Through it in the bosses spray booth this arvo.
 
Lovely thread Jake, I really enjoy looking/learning about these old techniques. Even though i've recently bought a new router, I still like to think I would do some handwork with speciality/moulding planes aswell, good job!
 
Ta Byron. Nice of you to say. I want more curves in my designs though. Looks too squarish. I want planes that can profile curves better. ..... my next project. :wink:

I may have to buy a new router soon. Thinking of getting a small makita trimmer.

Have a good day. :)
 
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