Machine identification
- Thread starter bliuebird
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Very nice saws
that one has a cast iron top the cheaper range has pressed steel
Is it single phase?
If it works then 500 -700 you could expect to pay on ebay
if 3 phase slightly less
if it doesnt work then 300 ish
asuume the blade angle and height adjustment will need stripping and cleaning and relubing
Ian
that one has a cast iron top the cheaper range has pressed steel
Is it single phase?
If it works then 500 -700 you could expect to pay on ebay
if 3 phase slightly less
if it doesnt work then 300 ish
asuume the blade angle and height adjustment will need stripping and cleaning and relubing
Ian
theres a few awkward pins need knocking out and you need lots of photos or diagrams to help you back together but not too bad
May be a silly question, but the bottom of the saw cabinet looks to flair outwards which is stylistically what the Wadkin saws do rather than the Startrite which have straight sides. The metal rails upon which the fence rides also look wrong for a Startrite, they normally stop at the edge of the top adjacent to the winder that adjusts the blade angle. The Wadkin saws extend further as this one appears to do. Is it possible the saw is actually a Wadkin AGS rather than either the Startrite 175 or 275?
They are worth about the same as a Startrite, but normally more sought after so you could see an additional £300 for the saw.
They are worth about the same as a Startrite, but normally more sought after so you could see an additional £300 for the saw.
Look at if the height and tilt adjustments work well and smoothly............seized if not
Make sure machine is unplugged grasp the blade and try to wiggle it from side to side............bearings or shaft worn
make sure the fence locks tight and releases when you want it to ..............adjustment or cleaning
I'm sure its a startrite machine
if it works and sounds smooth it'll be ok
theres 2 drive belts driving the blade...........but only £10 to replace
if bearings £20
motor bearings the same
Make sure machine is unplugged grasp the blade and try to wiggle it from side to side............bearings or shaft worn
make sure the fence locks tight and releases when you want it to ..............adjustment or cleaning
I'm sure its a startrite machine
if it works and sounds smooth it'll be ok
theres 2 drive belts driving the blade...........but only £10 to replace
if bearings £20
motor bearings the same
heimlaga
Established Member
I wouldn't worry about bearings. They are asy to shift out. Both motor bearings and arbour bearings. Belts are even easier to shift out.
-I would watch out for signs of a burned motor. Rewinding a motor costs 400-500 euros around here though sometimes one may find a suitable secondhand motor cheaper.
-I would also look for signs of hammer blows on seized moving parts. A seized rise and fall mechinism or fence is usually pretty easy to fix. On the other hand if somerone has been bashing it with a hammer regularly to make it move then you should expect some pretty complicated and expensive repairs.
-I would watch if the arbour is bent or if the threads are damaged or if a carelessly tightened blade has worn a deep groove in the arbour. I have repaired such a groove once but building up the arbour with weld and filing it round and smooth is pretty much a hit or miss operation. Any reasonlably skilled machinist can turn a replacement arbour but it would cost a bit of money.
-I would also take a close look at the table to see if there is some mayor warpage (2mm or more). This is a very unusual problem but sometimes a cast iron part may warp after machining.
-I would look for improper replacement bolts. Some people just love putting a metric bolt in a whitworth threaded hole and tightening it with brute force. Sometimes the holes can be drilled out and rethreaded at a larger size but sometimes helicoils are required and they tend to cost a bit.
-Last but not least I would look for cracks in cast iron parts. Most cracked cast iron parts can be nickel welded and some can be replaced or reinforced with home made mild steel parts but this kind of repairs usually end up pretty laborious and require some very special skills. At times the worst case scenario happens and there is no other way to fix a broken cast iron part than making a pattern and having a new part cast and machined. This is very expensive.
Most likely you will find none of theese problems in that nicelooking saw. Good Luck!
-I would watch out for signs of a burned motor. Rewinding a motor costs 400-500 euros around here though sometimes one may find a suitable secondhand motor cheaper.
-I would also look for signs of hammer blows on seized moving parts. A seized rise and fall mechinism or fence is usually pretty easy to fix. On the other hand if somerone has been bashing it with a hammer regularly to make it move then you should expect some pretty complicated and expensive repairs.
-I would watch if the arbour is bent or if the threads are damaged or if a carelessly tightened blade has worn a deep groove in the arbour. I have repaired such a groove once but building up the arbour with weld and filing it round and smooth is pretty much a hit or miss operation. Any reasonlably skilled machinist can turn a replacement arbour but it would cost a bit of money.
-I would also take a close look at the table to see if there is some mayor warpage (2mm or more). This is a very unusual problem but sometimes a cast iron part may warp after machining.
-I would look for improper replacement bolts. Some people just love putting a metric bolt in a whitworth threaded hole and tightening it with brute force. Sometimes the holes can be drilled out and rethreaded at a larger size but sometimes helicoils are required and they tend to cost a bit.
-Last but not least I would look for cracks in cast iron parts. Most cracked cast iron parts can be nickel welded and some can be replaced or reinforced with home made mild steel parts but this kind of repairs usually end up pretty laborious and require some very special skills. At times the worst case scenario happens and there is no other way to fix a broken cast iron part than making a pattern and having a new part cast and machined. This is very expensive.
Most likely you will find none of theese problems in that nicelooking saw. Good Luck!
heimlaga
Established Member
To me the Startrite sounds like a better buy even if it may need a few repairs for 200 or 300 pounds more.
A lot of people assume that a machine has to be shiny with lits of brigfhtly coloured plastic parts to be worth anything. Quite the opposite of reality. Just becuse that is what marketing keeps telling us. Sometimes you may be lucky and come across a seller who has that kinds of missconseptions in his head.
A lot of people assume that a machine has to be shiny with lits of brigfhtly coloured plastic parts to be worth anything. Quite the opposite of reality. Just becuse that is what marketing keeps telling us. Sometimes you may be lucky and come across a seller who has that kinds of missconseptions in his head.
Wow, a Startrite for £200, snatch their hand off (although the I still think it's a Wadkin AGS).
If it is a Startrite there easy to work on, spares are still available and they are highly sought after machines. There is no comparison between either a Startrite or indeed a Wadkin and a modern machine. One will last a lifetime the other will IMO be disappointing.
You are highly unlikely to loose any money, even if you but it and don't fancy refurbishing it, placing it on an auction site is almost guaranteed to give you a return for your investment.
If it is a Startrite there easy to work on, spares are still available and they are highly sought after machines. There is no comparison between either a Startrite or indeed a Wadkin and a modern machine. One will last a lifetime the other will IMO be disappointing.
You are highly unlikely to loose any money, even if you but it and don't fancy refurbishing it, placing it on an auction site is almost guaranteed to give you a return for your investment.
I agree with everything in this thread. I've owned two of these machines and sold the first one on eBay. I got loads of 'buy it now' offers and agreed to £500 cash in the end. Put 'Tilt Arbor' into eBay to get an idea of price. Certainly at the offer you've had I would snap it up. You're not going to lose money on it.
My only observation is that both tables I have owned are the smaller 0.9 HP models. I generally work with hardwood. I have found the machine has to work hard to rip hardwood even with the right blade. I'm now thinking of spending more money to get a 3hp machine for this reason. There is usually a label attached and it will tell you if its 240v and the power of the machine.
Mat
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My only observation is that both tables I have owned are the smaller 0.9 HP models. I generally work with hardwood. I have found the machine has to work hard to rip hardwood even with the right blade. I'm now thinking of spending more money to get a 3hp machine for this reason. There is usually a label attached and it will tell you if its 240v and the power of the machine.
Mat
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for all your advice , I only have a transit connect so decided not to buy it , the weight would probably kill my van .
If anyone is interested i have the permission off the seller to pass on his phone number . He says the saw is in perfect working order . The saw is located at Surrey £200
If anyone is interested i have the permission off the seller to pass on his phone number . He says the saw is in perfect working order . The saw is located at Surrey £200
heimlaga
Established Member
Now you are into some serious overthinking. I am pretty sure this saw will not overload a transit connect. If it still does you just loose a spring and shifting a broken spring is nothing to worry about. If it is too hevy you can just take it apart and transport it home in two roundrips....or rent a trailer.....or ask a friend for help.....
The only question is: Do you need or want a good a cabinet saw and do you have room for it and electricity to power it? If the answer is yes-yes-yes this is most likely the saw for you sold at a prize you will never find again.
The only question is: Do you need or want a good a cabinet saw and do you have room for it and electricity to power it? If the answer is yes-yes-yes this is most likely the saw for you sold at a prize you will never find again.
I picked my saw up in a Transit connect. No problems, it's really small although it's a good lump to heft about. If you go on your own take some tools, the top and motor are easy to remove and the weight is significant reduced to allow a one man collection. (Nite there are two roll pins that need knocking out with a straight punch)
If I was closer I would buy it just to wipe over with an oily rag and put it on here for someone to buy, they would be getting a top notch table saw (be it a Startrite or a Wadkin).
Think very long and carefully before passing this gift horse by. At the quality of the machine and price you will definitely not find many if any others.
If I was closer I would buy it just to wipe over with an oily rag and put it on here for someone to buy, they would be getting a top notch table saw (be it a Startrite or a Wadkin).
Think very long and carefully before passing this gift horse by. At the quality of the machine and price you will definitely not find many if any others.
