M42 blades - performance views please

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Random Orbital Bob

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Hi Folks

They're raved about but I've never used one. I hear tell they can remain sharp for up to 10x longer than a carbon steel blade. Is that people's experience?

I'd appreciate any feedback.
 
I had one and it did stay sharp for a good time. I haven't used enough blades to know whether it was substantially longer than any other.

Overall I think I prefer the tuffsaws fast cut personally. I like the idea of the m42 incase you catch a bit of metail but it hasn't happened to date. The next ones I buy will be fast cut unless there is something more suited to a specific task.
 
I've used Ian's fastcut blades and they're great. I have hit nails several times when deep ripping trees that originated in gardens (apple mostly). That was what motivated the enquiry about M42. But beyond nails, I do find bandsaw blades go off the boil sharpness wise reasonably quickly. Especially of course when ripping deep and green stock with the bark still in place.

My hope is that M42 will remain sharp for a lot longer given that very abrasive medium. They cost about twice the price of carbon steel blades but the claim is they last 10x longer. I'm hoping to corroborate that assertion I guess.
 
Bob I think it depends what you are doing. I fitted a 3/8ths at Xmas and the rip cut is excellent however it is thicker than a normal blade so if you have tight curves to cut it struggles more than I expected. My view so far is that if I were doing lots of ripping it probably makes sense to use the M42 but if it is general use the reduction in speed of cutting curves might outweigh the advantage. That said I will report in a year or so if it stayed sharp 10x longer!
 
This isn't so much for radii. I tend to keep a separate 1/2" sabrecut for that because radius cutting wears the blades unevenly. I batch up all my bowl blank stock and do all the radius cutting in one job lot after installing that particular 1/2". The M42 is for ripping directly in green timber. What appeals to me is two things: the extra thickness confers beam strength which keeps it cutting straight and the HSS should keep it sharper for longer....keeping it cutting straight (& fast). But it's a theory at the moment having not had experience with the M42. Really, the holy grail for me is staying sharp for longer. If it can achieve that I'll be happy.
 
Since trying some (ages ago) I've never used anything else. I have two machines, one for wood and the other for metal both fitted with M42 blades. They stay sharp a very long time and I've never had one break.
 
I've had and used them, (from Ian) they do last a long while and don't seem to mind what they are chewing on so soil contaminated wood or the odd nail is consumed with ease if recycling when you've missed them when checking.
Set and tooth count not the best for green wood and curves.
Seem to remember being surprised that one turned out to being on machine longer than 12months when the packaging search for a replacement was enforced.

Being lazy and inclined to only change out blades when absolutely necessary results in my preference being the standard thickness SuperTuff Sabrecut Bandsaw Blades with increased set because they perform better on my machine on green log handling due to the increased kerf and finish on anything else is good enough for my normal uses on other woods, just need to be a bit more vigilant about debris content.
 
I've had an M42 fitted to my Startrite for some time now and whilst I haven't done absolutely masses of cutting with it I would fit another. Deep rips really well and seems to suffer from less wander.

Sharper 10 times longer? Don't know but it's certainly outlasted an ordinary blade.

It is thicker but it does a cracking job.
 
CHJ":3ufgwgdz said:
.......in my preference being the standard thickness SuperTuff Sabrecut Bandsaw Blades with increased set because they perform better on my machine on green log handling due to the increased kerf and finish on anything else is good enough for my normal uses on other woods, just need to be a bit more vigilant about debris content.
The Tuffsaw M42 blades I use would be no use for green wood .... but then I never have green wood to cut.
 
mm thanks chaps. It does sound like the M42's are not destined for ripping green doesn't it. The sabrecut's as Chas has said have the additional set which helps to keep the kerf clear of resin and wet shavings. On the other hand the HSS of the M42's will protect against contaminated wood. I've used a fair few sabrecuts already and they are good, no question. Maybe I should just wind my neck in and remain with what we know works and just swallow the blunting issue as inevitable given the job they're being asked to do??

Just one thing though...Ian does do a 3tpi M42. I appreciate the set wont be like the sabrecuts but that is a fast/rough blade. Is that aimed at deep resawing of seasoned timber?
 
It would be worth emailing or ringing Ian, every time I have communicated with him he has given excellent advice even if it meant him selling less or a cheaper blade.
 
Random Orbital Bob":2w65v1qc said:
mm thanks chaps. It does sound like the M42's are not destined for ripping green doesn't it. The sabrecut's as Chas has said have the additional set which helps to keep the kerf clear of resin and wet shavings. On the other hand the HSS of the M42's will protect against contaminated wood. I've used a fair few sabrecuts already and they are good, no question. Maybe I should just wind my neck in and remain with what we know works and just swallow the blunting issue as inevitable given the job they're being asked to do??

Just one thing though...Ian does do a 3tpi M42. I appreciate the set wont be like the sabrecuts but that is a fast/rough blade. Is that aimed at deep resawing of seasoned timber?

I have one, (m42 3tpi) still unused. Ian does say it will cope with green wood even though it does not have as much set as the sabrecuts. It is really for cutting small firewood for kindling that is reclaimed planks with odd nails and staples.
 
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