Lidl bench grinder.

[whiskywill]

Is he putting on the primary bevel, the secondary bevel or just making the chisel safe for opening paint tins?
Seen in the latest Lidl brochure.

 

[AES]

Nah. He's just using "a lump of metal with a handle" to see how much force is needed to stall the motor (or burst the wheel, whichever comes first). It's a "product test" yer know!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

He's grinding off the first few mil from Lidl chisels as it's known not to be much good.

 

[novocaine]

spark test to determine the metal, the man is fastidious in both his work apparel and his understanding of tools he uses. He obviously bought a number of sets as the discarded chisels beyond imply, he is willing to sacrifice this set in order to provide the most quantifiable data on the grain structure and steel type of these high quality tools.

also, nice driving gloves.

 

[OscarG]

My dad's just bought that exact machine.

We unboxed it and were a bit puzzled how the 2 wheels aren't on same axis, making it a real pain to use, don't know which way to orientate it on a bench. No idea why they've made it like that.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

The slow wheel needs a gearbox, and also if they were on the same axis it would push the small wheel too far from the edge of your bench to be of much use.

 

[OscarG]

I've seen other wet dry grinders where they're both on same axis though? Suppose it's cheaper to do it this way?

Unless you can put it on corner of a bench it's awkward. I was toying of idea of some "lazy susan" turntable thing to spin the machine to whatever wheel we wanted to use.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

The ones with the wheels in the same plane usually have two large similarly sized wheels, so probably use a slower motor.

 

[AES]

I think the previous poster is correct about wheel size/motor power.

I've just recently been given a Workzone (Aldi) wet/dry grinder and that also has the wheels at right angles to each other. The wet wheel is MUCH bigger dia and wider than the dry wheel. As someone said, the wet wheel must go MUCH slower than the dry, hence the need for a gearbox in this design. And it's a right angle gearbox otherwise the OA length of the machine would be excessive (assuming a worm drive, which is probably the most compact, and cheapest to make).

I'm converting the dry end on mine to a big (11 or 12 inch) sander as I already have another off hand grinder. I'm mounting it on a board with small "stops" each side (on a separate shelf/bench) so that I can simply lift the board and turn it through 90 degrees so I can use either end/side, as required.

 

[DTR]

Wearing gloves at a bench grinder??? :shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[Bodgers]

I have this grinder and it is actually fine. The tool rests are junk for precise work, so I bought a an angle jig for it.

I also replaced one of the wheels with a slightly wider white aluminium oxide one.

Most of these grinders need these sort of mods anyway, so why pay more?



Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk

 

[AES]

+1 for Bodger's comment. Exactly my own thinking - there's nothing particularly special about the machine itself, provided it goes round and round, that's it. What's important is the wheel/s and the rest/s.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

One problem with the cheap wet grinders is that they rarely run true. If you get one that gets the wobbles you can true it with a devil stone. Get a block of scrap wood just below the height of the centre of the wheel and mount it somehow (temporarily) to the bench - I used hot melt - and devise a method of clamping the devil stone to the scrap, just lightly contacting the wheel. Let it run for a few minutes until you can't hear it touching then move the devil stone until it touches again and repeat. Keep going until it touches all the way around. It doesn't take very long. but you cannot do it freehand - the devil will ride the slow moving stone and will not get it round. I have a Clarke one that was unusable because it was so far out of round that trued up perfectly.