Steve Maskery
Established Member
Andy, how much space does the weatherstripping take up when compressed? I've allows3mm in my drawing, does sound reasonable to you?
Laminating frames - dimensioned drawings
- Thread starter Steve Maskery
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I would add a bit more to be honest. The last set of doors i built, I allowed 5mm as fitting on a multilock and I think it'll be hard pushed to get it to close up that distance on a 3mm gap.
http://www.schlegel.com/Build_ProductDetail.asp?productID=170
Image states 50%, so around 4.5mm. Also, don't bother paying loads for a 2.7mm cutter, the cheaper 2.5mm works fine
http://www.schlegel.com/Build_ProductDetail.asp?productID=170
Image states 50%, so around 4.5mm. Also, don't bother paying loads for a 2.7mm cutter, the cheaper 2.5mm works fine
Steve Maskery
Established Member
I can see why you would need more with that profile.
This is what I've been looking at:
http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/drau ... l_5mm.html
Very helpful chap on the phone, too.
Cheers
Steve
This is what I've been looking at:
http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/drau ... l_5mm.html
Very helpful chap on the phone, too.
Cheers
Steve
John McM
Established Member
Hi Steve, just came across this again and wandered if you have completed your venture. Are you publishing your findings. I would be very interested.
Many thanks
Many thanks
Steve Maskery
Established Member
John
Yes the building work is complete, as is the internal decorating upstairs. The lounge is still a mess though.
I used the section that looks like a tadpole. I can't remember whether I bought the 5mm dia or 6mm, but it fits nicely. 3mm is a sensible amount to allow for, as this stuff squashes up nicely. The only thing I would change if I were doing it again would be to buy P-section rather than O-section - it would be easier to keep the groove a sensible distance from the edge of the moulding.
I have written an article about my experiences, but I don't know if or when it will appear. Anyway it's not really a this-is-how-to-make-a-window type of article. it's more about the principles I learned about during my research, and about the basic joinery required.
All in all I am pleased with the end result, but it was a much bigger task than I had anticipated.
Cheers
Steve
Yes the building work is complete, as is the internal decorating upstairs. The lounge is still a mess though.
I used the section that looks like a tadpole. I can't remember whether I bought the 5mm dia or 6mm, but it fits nicely. 3mm is a sensible amount to allow for, as this stuff squashes up nicely. The only thing I would change if I were doing it again would be to buy P-section rather than O-section - it would be easier to keep the groove a sensible distance from the edge of the moulding.
I have written an article about my experiences, but I don't know if or when it will appear. Anyway it's not really a this-is-how-to-make-a-window type of article. it's more about the principles I learned about during my research, and about the basic joinery required.
All in all I am pleased with the end result, but it was a much bigger task than I had anticipated.
Cheers
Steve
John McM
Established Member
Thanks for that Steve, did you laminate the sections as you originally intended, simplifying the joinery? Would you recommend that approach or is it too much effort. Would I be better off with the traditional mortice and tennon. Also knowing what you know now, would you use friction hinges, multi point locking thingies (Espagnol?)
Thanks, I'll try not to pester you again.
Thanks, I'll try not to pester you again.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Yes I laminated. It was a lot of work but worth it. Everything is dead true.
Friction hinges are great and easy to fit. You just have to think ahead about the grooves.
Espagnolettes are a pain in wooden windows. They take up width. That is not a problem for top-hung windows, becasue the bottom rail is usually wider anyway. but for side-hung, it means the stiles have to be wider than you would normally want on a trad window. It's why UPVC windows are so clunky.
However, if you use ordinary surface-mounted catches, you do not have very much frame left on the inside to which you can screw them, unless yo make the frame even deeper.
Yes I made the frames up plain and added all the rebates afterwards. It siplified the joinery and now it is painted it is impossible to tell. I'd do the same again.
S
Friction hinges are great and easy to fit. You just have to think ahead about the grooves.
Espagnolettes are a pain in wooden windows. They take up width. That is not a problem for top-hung windows, becasue the bottom rail is usually wider anyway. but for side-hung, it means the stiles have to be wider than you would normally want on a trad window. It's why UPVC windows are so clunky.
However, if you use ordinary surface-mounted catches, you do not have very much frame left on the inside to which you can screw them, unless yo make the frame even deeper.
Yes I made the frames up plain and added all the rebates afterwards. It siplified the joinery and now it is painted it is impossible to tell. I'd do the same again.
S
John McM
Established Member
Great, thankyou Steve
