Laminate flooring

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drewdt3

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Not really woodworking but need a little help on this weekend's project, laying 57 square meters of flooring. What I'm pondering on is should I still put joining strips in the doorways even though the flooring is the same throughout? I'm thinking this would be the sensible way to do it. Also instead of taking the beading into the doorway should I make a return mitre just before the door frame and cut in under the frame to tuck the ends of the boards under?

Cheers

Drew
 
drewdt3":2mykuofv said:
Not really woodworking but need a little help on this weekend's project, laying 57 square meters of flooring. What I'm pondering on is should I still put joining strips in the doorways even though the flooring is the same throughout?

Yes

I'm thinking this would be the sensible way to do it. Also instead of taking the beading into the doorway should I make a return mitre just before the door frame and cut in under the frame to tuck the ends of the boards under?

Yes

Cheers

Drew

Hope this helps.
Good luck :D
 
If the rooms run into a hall way, then for a better look I would not use jointing strips in the doorways. If it's through double doors for instance into an adjoining room, it depends on the total size. However, in most cases I would try to avoid jointing strips for a better look. It's fiddly to do, and you need to plan the layout properly to achieve it.
 
I think the way most people do it these days is to trim the door liner and architrave with a fein multitool and slide the laminate underneath. There is no other neat way to do it.

As you say the cover bead cant be cut around, you can only do a mitre return in line with the end of the skirting.

If you run the flooring between rooms, be very careful to avoid any pinch points, so make sure you always allow for expansion gaps.
 
Cheers for all the replies, I may be on with more questions as I com to awkward points in the job. I think I may stick with thresholds between each room.

Drew
 
Done a lot of laminate flooring. I always put thresholds between rooms when the flooring runs through. Makes life easier going around doorframes, allows an expansion point in the job and gives you a fresh starting point in the next room. I also cut underneath doorfarames and architraves using a hardpoint saw on top of an offcut of flooring the get the correct height of cut. The underlay then takes up the saw kerf and you should also then get a nice tight fit. I then run the moulding along the skirting up to the back of the architrave and put a return mitre on it.
 
Most important is decent gel filled knee pads - Lidl and Aldi sold them recently + meticulous brushing out of all joints before joining.
 
Fitted mine in one hit throughout the ground floor of the house and it was great for about a fortnight then i had problems with the floor starting to buckle ( yep had expansion gaps ) , so had to then put thresholds in retrospectivly and that was a pain in the bum.
 
Thanks for all replies so far. Done the dining room and sitting room, just about to start on the hallway which is going to be the most awkward space. I am pondering what to do at the foot of the new stairs. Do I cut under the bottom main post a short way or bead around it? I would rather cut under but don't want to weaken the structure, what are peoples thoughts on this please?

Drew

PS thanks for the knee pads heads up, I see what you mean now. The Mrs got me a pair from Aldi!
 

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I usually bead around the newel post and just leave an expansion gap between the flooring and the bottom tread riser, which will be covered by the stair carpet.
 
have fitted my own fair share and yes I only leave them only for expansion gap purpose, there's no other real other advantage other than it's a bit easier to start the next room.

Also make sure you do not get on your knees and bum and slide around the room thinking it's all fun while fitting it, I can guarantee you will feel like a raisin for the next 4-5days if you do so.
 

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