Kity 636 problem

[heronviewer]

I've managed to get a Kity 636 but I have a problem with it. The thicknesser feed roller engaging/disengaging operating rod welding to the slotted plate has broken. I've got the parts and at the moment, the only way I can operate it is by taking the drive cover off and changing it by hand. Not a good solution !
Looking at it, it seems that the drive mechanism would have to be dismantled to be able to remove the slotted plate for repair - and I've no idea how to do this.
Has anyone experienced this or has any advice ?
I'll add a photo of the plate.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Where is the damage?

 

[Hot stuff]

Bottom left of the picture, you can see the remains of the welds that held the handle on.
I'm not sure what needs dismantling for that job but in general they're not the easiest things to work on. Everything I had to do to mine needed far more peripheral work than you'd expect. Not difficult, just time consuming.

 

[heronviewer]

As far as I can see, I would have to remove the mechanism for tensioning the roller drive belt and that pulley to be able to get the end of the shaft at the slotted end withdrawn enough to slide the slotted plate out. It's not clear how to do that - at least to me. The instruction book does not help at that depth at all.

 

[MikeG.]

Well you certainly have to remove it. It can't be welded in situ without causing a lot of collateral damage and compromising the alignment (and the weld).

 

[Eric The Viking]

It looks rather similar to mine (439), although mine is a single piece, with just a plastic-dipped end to the plate/bar tom make a handle. Yes, it's a pain, but not terminal. You might consider drilling for countersunk bolts instead of re-welding. Again, if it's similar to the 439, it's only tensioning the drive chain, so requires little force to operate.

Photograph everything you dismantle, and scribe marks for re-alignment if anything is clamped-up in adjustment slots.

 

[heronviewer]

Thanks for the ideas.
The plate is only about 1mm from the casing, so there is no hope of getting a nut in there (and none of my drills, even without a bit, will fit in there) so that wouldn't work. Where the welds have failed, both rod and plate are very rough, so I might try Loctite if I can work out how to position and hold the parts. Not sure how good Loctite would be in shear though.
I tried moving the plate with one hand on each end, but I couldn't move it. With the cover off, there's a 2½" lever and that is how I've managed to move it. It all looks well lubricated, so that is not a problem.
If I do have to dismantle, I shall be very careful ! I've no literature about the mechanism at all.

 

[Eric The Viking]

What does the broken off bit look like, or is it missing altogether?

 

[heronviewer]

It's an 8mm steel diameter rod, straight for 130mm from the end welded to the plate, and then bent up at about 45 degrees for 75mm with a plastic knob on the end. It's fitted through a vertical slot in the frame so it can only move up and down and in and out. It's in perfect condition - except it isn't attached to the plate !

 

[Hot stuff]

If you know someone who's good with a mig welder you'd get that welded back on with very little damage to the surrounding area. Slide a bit of tin up between the arm and the casing to give a bit of extra protection and a coule of quick dabs, sorted!

 

[MickCheese]

I have a 636 manual in German but the pictures are in English.

PM my your email address and I'll send it to you if you want it.

Can't seem to attach it.

Mick

 

[heronviewer]

Thanks Hot Stuff - a good idea.

Thanks for the offer MickCheese - but I do have a manual (in English), but it doesn't go into the details of assembly, it's just an instruction manual.

 

[Eric The Viking]

If you know someone who's good with a mig welder you'd get that welded back on with very little damage to the surrounding area. Slide a bit of tin up between the arm and the casing to give a bit of extra protection and a coule of quick dabs, sorted!

Spot on.

Many things will protect the surrounding stuff, for example heatproof mat for plumbing. Weld spatter doesn't stick to brass too. I'd suggest using kitchen foil, but I haven't tried it, but it might work too (aluminium does burn though). You could even just use a bit of old denim, dampened.

I was thinking of putting the bolts in the other way round, but TBH, MIG or TIG would sort it very quickly, just scrub off and repaint. Flag do a metal flake that's very close to the old Kity green (slightly darker -- I think I added a bit of white).

 

[TFrench]

Definitely no problem for someone with a welder. If you're anywhere near leicester I'll do it for you.

 

[heronviewer]

Thanks for the offer. but I'm in the Scottish Borders, so it is a bit far.

Incidentally, I tried to put my plumbing heatproof mat between the casing and the slotted plate and it it far too fat to get it in. Wet denim would go there - but would that give enough protection to the casing ?