Jointer guards - pro's and con's of US vs European styles?

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TonyF

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I'm a British-born Kiwi, and a novice at powered woodworking. I recently posted a question on the above on the US hobby woodworking forum "WoodNet". As might be expected, most North American folk have jointers with the US-style guard, a "swinging arm" type of device commonly referred to as a 'pork chop".

I'm assuming most members of this site might be more used to the "Euro-style" guard ... and I'd appreciate your guidance.

My original post was as follows:

"My apologies if this is a well-worn topic of the past ... but an hour of searching the forum has left me little the wiser. If there is an old thread or article someone can point me at, then I'd be grateful, if not, then this is where I'm at:

I'm a jointer novice. I have an older model cast-iron jointer. The company that made it is no longer in business. It is fitted with a shopmade guard that I understand is "in the European style".

I've gotten a lot of satisfaction (and a great deal of fine shavings!) out of a "learner" project whereby I laminated up 3 layers of hardwood decking and milled them into small beams with finished dimensions of 3" by 2" and about 5-6 feet long (I'll use these to construct a closed in mobile base for the jointer ... pics and story on another occasion - I mention the dimensions only in case they are relevant to the origin of the question).

The "European guard" is a slotted heavy flat steel plate that is adjustable for height and horizontal position, and the piece to be milled passes beneath it. I use a pair of the "press down and move from right to left" push-blocks. In terms of keeping one's hands off the cutters, it seems quite effective.

However, as the piece being milled is relatively heavy and of moderate length, the piece itself feels not completely in control when one has to lift off the piece and transfer a push-block from the in-feed side to the outfeed ... and at the same time, I find it hard to keep the piece moving at a constant speed across the cutter-head.

It seems to me that the "swing pork chop" kind of device might make it easier to keep both hands on the piece more of the time and keep the motion steady, but increases the risk of passing one's hands directly over the cutter-head, notwithstanding the lumber and the push-blocks are between hands and cutters.

So ... it seems to me that neither guard variant is perfect, but for different reasons. Intuitively, the "European style" feels to offer less chance of losing flesh and blood, but, given the control and hand-transfer question, is it indeed so?

I imagine other folk have weighed up these factors and made their choices - I'd be grateful to learn of their experiences and their thinking.

--------------------
TonyF
"Tony, woodwork, sawdust, internal access to garage ... tracking inside - "Deal with It!!" - SWMBO"

There has been some helpful suggestions to my original question, and I've subsequently done a little more to refine my technique with some success - but would still appreciate guidance from your part of the world.

(If anyone would like to view the discussion on the WoodNet forum, the address is www.woodnet.net - select "forums". My member name on that site is also TonyF)

With thanks
 
TonyF":3dgmr1w9 said:
(If anyone would like to view the discussion on the WoodNet forum, the address is www.woodnet.net - select "forums". My member name on that site is also TonyF)

There is the link un-locked (Tony , the spam trap stops once you've made a few posts)

Most folk have no choice over guarding as the appropriate type comes depending on where you buy the machine.

There is little doubt that the Euro style keep the flesh away better but it does stop you working on short pieces - which arguably you should not plane anyway.
However if you slide back the Euro guard as if you were jointing, doing short lengths becomes possible but totally unguarded and dangerous.
The pork chop does give you a little more protection on short work.
I would rather do the hand changeover when I want to especially when correcting bent timber not when the guard dictates so I have a theoretical preference for the pork chop but no practical experience as I can't fit them to my UK machines.

Bob

PS welcome to the forum
 
I am of the opposite opinion on this and prefer the Pork chop guard. I have a 6" jointer with this guard on and also a 10" with the Euro guard on and get along much better with the Pork chop. I also always use push blocks on the timber so my fingers are well away from the blades. (Discretion is the better part of valour I think.) :wink:
 
I've often wondered it the porkchop spring is strong enough to act as a sort of feather board to keep the work to the fence.

What to you reckon Mailee?

Bob
 
mailee":b2wwpnyq said:
I am of the opposite opinion on this and prefer the Pork chop guard. I have a 6" jointer with this guard on and also a 10" with the Euro guard on and get along much better with the Pork chop. I also always use push blocks on the timber so my fingers are well away from the blades. (Discretion is the better part of valour I think.) :wink:

I can see the pro's and con's of both of them, and I think that I just slightly prefer the Pork Chop because you never lose sight of the workpiece like you do when it go's under the Euro. But On the other hand the Euro is adjustable where the pork chop is not. Why oh why do I try to make decision's or even think at this time of a Sunday ](*,)

Cheers

Mike
 
I started a thread about this back in December (I think). After several months now, I still cannot get on with it. I have now resorted to withdrawing the guard sufficiently to allow the workpiece to pass over the cutterblock unguarded - more dangerous, I know, but at least I can now get satisfactory results.

Although i've not actually tried it, I reckon the US style would be much easier to work with. Not necessarily "better" as a guard, but easier to work with.

Just my 2p.

Cheers

Karl
 
Karl":242tsw9d said:
I have now resorted to withdrawing the guard sufficiently to allow the workpiece to pass over the cutterblock unguarded - more dangerous, I know, but at least I can now get satisfactory results.

Karl
Same here...I withdraw the guard by the width of the wood going across the top and use push sticks or a push board. I can't and have never been able to pass the wood satisfactorily 'under' the guard. Agree also with Bob 9fingers that short stuff (say less than 300mm) shouldn't go over the planer anyway - Rob
 
Karl":2vvp50x5 said:
Although i've not actually tried it, I reckon the US style would be much easier to work with. Not necessarily "better" as a guard, but easier to work with.

Just my 2p.

Cheers

Karl

Karl, I think you have elegantly captured my feelings on this very neatly.

Bob
 
Well Bob I don't think the spring is strong enough to use for a featherboard as it is quite light. I have to also admit to moving the euro guard back enough to allow the timber through as it is easier to use this way.
 
Karl":jiowassl said:
I started a thread about this back in December (I think). After several months now, I still cannot get on with it. I have now resorted to withdrawing the guard sufficiently to allow the workpiece to pass over the cutterblock unguarded - more dangerous, I know, but at least I can now get satisfactory results.

Although i've not actually tried it, I reckon the US style would be much easier to work with. Not necessarily "better" as a guard, but easier to work with.

Just my 2p.

Cheers

Karl

Ditto
 
I use my Metabo one as a feather board - it has a flexible plastic "thingy" at the end which acts like one?

Rod
 
Many thanks for the insights ... I guess I'm feeling vaguely guilty of "bad practice", because last evening I found I could do better controlling the workpiece by dispensing with the blocks and using my hands (but keeping away from the cutter zone - the flat guard on my machine is quite wide).

However, moving the guard aside just enough to use the blocks is a thought, and I'll give that a try also.

And ... my apologies for the transgression of the rules of etiquette (adding a web address in my first real post) - I appreciate Bob's kindness in restoring the sentence. :oops:

Tony
 
A further thought - has anyone used featherboards or other hold-down devices with a jointer - might this be a useful approach to avoid the hand-switching technique and yet maintaining a constant pressure on the piece being jointed?
 
TonyF":3rolzf2k said:
And ... my apologies for the transgression of the rules of etiquette (adding a web address in my first real post) - I appreciate Bob's kindness in restoring the sentence. :oops:

Tony

Not a problem Tony. As you have now made a few posts, you will see that your first one has now sorted itself out.

Bob
 
woodbloke":1em014n2 said:
Karl":1em014n2 said:
I have now resorted to withdrawing the guard sufficiently to allow the workpiece to pass over the cutterblock unguarded - more dangerous, I know, but at least I can now get satisfactory results.

Karl
Same here...I withdraw the guard by the width of the wood going across the top and use push sticks or a push board. I can't and have never been able to pass the wood satisfactorily 'under' the guard. Agree also with Bob 9fingers that short stuff (say less than 300mm) shouldn't go over the planer anyway - Rob

On the smaller benchtop one - I do the same, always have oddly enough.

The large Lorem is different in that the guard is behind the fence - you move the fence to expose sufficient blade to do the job and the rest is exposed. But the bit doing the job is effectively unguarded. :oops: Might have to look into getting\making something when it's fully installed.
 
TonyF":m2s4alst said:
A further thought - has anyone used featherboards or other hold-down devices with a jointer - might this be a useful approach to avoid the hand-switching technique and yet maintaining a constant pressure on the piece being jointed?

It would be sensible for larger batches of similar sized timber, in fact I know a couple of joiners who set up a power feed unit on their planers when surfacing matching boards for tongue and groove doors and other fairly regular jobs. Has anyone tried setting up some of the Mag Switch gadgets for planing?
 
Like Mailee above, I have both kinds, a 10" Euro-style and a 6" American-style. I much prefer and feel much safer with the US style. Just seems naturally safer - unless there's wood on the blades they are covered. Can't get on with the Euro-style, always seems to be in the way, and as such, much as I shouldn't, it ends up not being used in the way it's intended.
 
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