Japanese saw - blade changing

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RogerS

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I've got a saw that has the blade fixed with a metal 'wedge'. The wee diagram suggests that to release the blade/wedge, you whack the end of the handle..but surprise, surprise...trying that doesn't budge it.

Any one have any suggestions?
 
at the risk of upsetting the gorilla :twisted: :roll:

aren't you supposed to rap the back sharply on your work top????
i would think with the wedge you need to hit against the grain as it were to loosen the hold.


but does that help :lol: :twisted:

paul :wink:
 
I tried your suggestion, Paul, but to no avail.

Over-enthusiastic sawing resulted in premature blade demise
P1050375.JPG


and so I looked again at the wee diagram

P1050372.JPG


Looks straightforward. Let's have a go.

P1050374.JPG


One chewed up end later...maybe not quite so simple. Maybe I'm not hitting it hard enough...

several bruised knuckles later and still it wouldn't budge so I thought I'd adopt Plan B and get a hacksaw...

P1050376.JPG


and take it apart since there was no way I was going to get it out. If I cut off 15mm then maybe I can shift it. No...not enough.
Maybe another 15mm and I can shift it. No...still it won't shift.
Let's take another 15mm off..that's 45mmin total.....and as you can see from the saw marks....it still won't shift

So...the motto is...£17 down the drain and please guys, avoid these saws like the plague. The good news is that I only bought the one. The bad news is.....I also bought a load of spare blades :cry:
 
sorry roger did not realise it was a double sided one.

used one yesterday to size a 10mm sheet of mdf, so quick and easy,
even pretty accurate which confused me. :? used it with the sheet free standing and it was much easier than expected.

which one is it, then we can all look :roll:

paul :wink:
 
engineer one":2rgau3uv said:
which one is it, then we can all look :roll:

paul :wink:

???



Further excavation revealed that the metal piece is actually held in place by a pin and so is not intended to come out :oops: but even so that blade seems firmly welded in place.
 
Roger,

My Japanese is none existent, but were you hitting the right end of the handle? Now its in bits can you workout how the blade should be released?
 
DaveL":3gho7q7m said:
Roger,

My Japanese is none existent, but were you hitting the right end of the handle?

A very good point :oops: and you could well be right because the blade end is slightly tapered and so if there was a stop inside the handle that the blade end butted up against then conceivably hitting the end (shown by a metal hammer in the diagram) of the wedge might release the blade.

But having said that, it's now in bits and I still can't get the blade out!

Cold weld?
 
OK - having now destroyed this pile of poo, this is the actual gripping mechanism

P1050378.JPG

P1050379.JPG

P1050380.JPG


As you can see, it is slightly tapered and, yes, Dave, you were right :oops: but even so, there is nothing for the blade end to resist against. Whacking the blade end directly simply resulted in the damn thing flying about nearly taking an eye out. Heating it up with my bunsen burner hasn't released it and so I've given up trying to take it apart.

Anyone else want to have a go? I'll post it to you :lol:
 
two more thoughts, what i meant was what make and where did you buy it????

second i would suggest that you could have used a paint tin opener and then wacked that down to ward the top of the blade, that would i think move the whole out. :twisted: :roll:

:tool: so i'll take it /them if you want :lol: :twisted:

paul :wink:
 

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