Its time to share some work! oh and finishing Q

[Angell 62]

Guys have to say sorry for not being very active since my first post asking for help. I took on board all the comments and went and purchased a Record SC4. Thakyou guys!!! WOW my options have opened up. Ive also started replacing my chisels one by one from the 10 pack starter set from Charlies to Robert Sorby individuals just changing the the ones I use most to start So roughing Gouge then Bowl gouge then Skew and Parting. I have also bought the carbide tip hollowing tool. Im having so much fun working with green wood just to throw on the fire once I finish but also started purchasing blanks also. Really having fun with this and I will try stay more active here to update you all with my progress as most of it goes up on the dreaded instagram haha.

I have attached a few pics of my work so far for you guys to look at. I do have a question though about finishes as at the moment I sand from 80 through to 400 grit then give a few coats of Danish oil then that’s it. Wandered if I were to make a next purchase what should it be??

Cheers Guys

J

 

[LancsRick]

I like the medal holder .

For another finish, try carnuba or microcrystalline wax. Both are good versatile hard finishes to give you a bit more breadth than Danish oil.

If I can offer a couple of hopefully helpful comments, it looks like you have some torn grain showing on your zebranozebrano bowl, try finishing with a finer cut prior to sanding. If you still struggle (sometimes wood is very uncooperative!) then local application of sanding sealer before a very fine cut can help. Both the bowls sit quite flat, consider having a bit more of a sweeping curve to make the whole bowl stand up and stand out more.

Glad you're enjoying it!

 

[Angell 62]

I like the medal holder .

For another finish, try carnuba or microcrystalline wax. Both are good versatile hard finishes to give you a bit more breadth than Danish oil.

If I can offer a couple of hopefully helpful comments, it looks like you have some torn grain showing on your zebranozebrano bowl, try finishing with a finer cut prior to sanding. If you still struggle (sometimes wood is very uncooperative!) then local application of sanding sealer before a very fine cut can help. Both the bowls sit quite flat, consider having a bit more of a sweeping curve to make the whole bowl stand up and stand out more.

Glad you're enjoying it!

Damn those eagle eyes!! I thought I had hidden it haha. Yes my finish cut with the chisels is very sloppy and I try and make the sandpaper do to much work. I got a scrapper attachment with the hollowing tool so will get used to using that more.

Really appreciate the advise and feedback Rick thankyou very much. I can only turn upto 6" on my cub at the moment (cant seem to buy the extension arm anywhere to turn the headstock) so I try and make the most of my 6" blank however I will attempt what you said.

J

 

[woodpig]

The two most common finishes at my wood turning club at the moment seem to be cellulose sanding sealer topped with microcrystalline wax (Renwax) or Lemon oil.

 

[Dalboy]

Hope this answer helps a little.

Like many new to wood turning you have done what is commonly known as a dog bowl shape which is a what people do thinking that they want the most out of a blank. making something with more of a flowing shape is more pleasing to the eye as well as rounder shapes which is something want to pick up and hold.
As well as a little end grain tear out I see some tool marks, this can be one of two things the first is the bevel rubbing as you transit from the sides to the bottom, by grinding back the bevel a little so the one that rubs is a little smaller may help. The second is tool sharpness keep the tools sharp little and often on the grinder will help, for the final cut sharpen and try and complete it in one nice flowing action.

There are many finishes you can try depending on what you want in respects to wear or use for food. Canuba wax is a quick and simple one after the application of a sander sealer. Oils of various types may need a few coats (more than you have applied) This is something that you will get to know the more you turn.

The shape of thing will come in time try to use free of cheap wood to start with and any pieces of exotic or expensive wood keep until you have had some more practice keep clear of softwood for the moment as well.

Make sure you use some safety equipment which you can wear

These are just my thoughts and others may disagree.

And lastly and most important enjoy the hobby and ask lots of questions many will try and answer them for you.

If you can find a club or someone to show you the ropes is a bonus and a club can also benefit that there are people to help with not just ideas but can show you those extra little tips as you progress.

 

[Angell 62]

Dalboy I really appreciate that. The only critics I've had is family and they never find any wrong hahaha. It's good to take advise from those who do it proper.

Everything I make is practice, I refuse to do projects for anyone as my quality needs to improve. I have cut my own ash blanks which give me good practice material also.

I take on board the oil finish and not putting enough coats on. I may get caught up in the fact one coat makes my work look 20 times better than before haha.

I will spend longer working the tool to try and erase these grain tears and tool marks.

I'll also try the different bowl structure and let you know how I've got on.

Again thank you Dal for the time to respond with such a comprehensive answer really do appreciate it.

J

 

[LancsRick]

As a very crude rulerule, look to do 3 coats over 3 days with Danish oil as a minimum. For hard wearing items oil is a great finish as it's very forgiving of hiding dings!

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Classics all of them...exactly like mine looked. Top marks for experimenting with different woods and styles, both spindle and face grain. I would echo the other posters with the finishing. Start with sharp tools, always make finishing cuts with freshly sharpened edges. If you have torn grain or ridges (which can be seen in the bowls) then start with 80 or even 40 grit if you have to, there's no shame in it, but spend time and effort removing those tool marks before you move to the next grit.

The rule of thumb is never jump more than 100 grit between abrasives and each successive abrasive should only remove the scratches of the one before except for the 80 grit which can refine the actual shape/ridges to some degree.

I wouldn't go too bonkers with your finishes for the time being, oil is easily the simplest to apply as it can be done off the lathe. For now, I would coach you to focus on your tool control and echoing Dalboy, the production of smooth flowing curves. In most woodturning, the aim is to have a continuous curve up until a transition. Also with bowls it often helps to lift the piece by undercutting the base so it has a shadow line at the bottom rather than just diving into the table. I also like to undercut the rims slightly so the curve flows over the top of the bowl.

But, keep it up, keep the pics coming and well done

 

[Stiggy]

Good work sir!

I use spirit sanding sealer to seal and harden the surface before finishing with a sharp scraper. I started off using Wax22, which is a popular one to use. I then bought some woodturning oil, and some Microcrystaline wax.

I recently bought some danish oil which I use for objects that are going to be used on a daily basis. I have used MC wax over the top of danish oil after waiting a few days for the oil to cure properly for a few days.

I concentrate on having fun and turning what I want to turn - or what the piece tells me it wants to be...

...just remember, every cut is a practice cut!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you want a quick, easy finish that will give a bit more protection than S/S and wax try Osmo, Fiddes or one of the other wax oils. Supremely easy to apply, only two coats, quick drying and food safe. As said, Danish is good and easy. Many people use S/S and wax but I find it marks while I think about it.

 

[Angell 62]

Good work sir!

I use spirit sanding sealer to seal and harden the surface before finishing with a sharp scraper. I started off using Wax22, which is a popular one to use. I then bought some woodturning oil, and some Microcrystaline wax.

I recently bought some danish oil which I use for objects that are going to be used on a daily basis. I have used MC wax over the top of danish oil after waiting a few days for the oil to cure properly for a few days.

I concentrate on having fun and turning what I want to turn - or what the piece tells me it wants to be...

...just remember, every cut is a practice cut!

Thank you mate. I tend not to think about a design and just make but the medal holder I had actual scrap sketches with actual rulers and compasses to work out how the multi plane turne would work haha.

I'm gettin confused with remarks to sanding sealer and oil. I thought you couldn't use them together?

I'll probably end up buying a bit of each of what everyone has suggested and try to see what finishes I can get. Plus it bulks out my workshop and makes it look more professional for photo backgrounds haha.

Again I really enjoy reading all this feedback.

J

 

[Stiggy]

It's one thing to listen to good advice and reasons for doing certain things and for tool use etc I usually follow, but as for finishes, I prefer to just 'have a go' and find out for myself...

...this may go against the grain, but I like to see for myself what the results are rather than rely on other people's opinions, when they could be completely different to mine...

...I don't get to be very rebellious much these days, but this is one way I can be!

 

[LancsRick]

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