Inca bandsaw

[9fingers]

Very few machines use custom bearings and so just working from the basic dimensions of bore, OD and width you should be able to get them almost anywhere. If you have trouble converting the dimensions to standard bearing numbers, just post me the sizes and I'll convert them for you.

Bob

 

[Krysstel]

The bearings are mounted offset on spindles. I'm no bandsaw expert, but this is maybe normal. How do I go about removing the bearing from the spindle ?

Mark

 

[9fingers]

Quite normal to be offset. Press of with suitable tube or bearing puller. Being offset should not make a difference

Bob

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Quite normal to be offset. Press of with suitable tube or bearing puller. Being offset should not make a difference

Bob

You will probably damage the bearing, as you have to press on the outer race. I'm a few thousand miles from mine so I can't take photos. But I'm fairly sure that you can't get at all the inner race from the back due to the offset. You should almost certainly replace th circlips as well.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Hi guys, all the best for 2012!

I still have to take the pictures but these days I am rather busy with social tasks. I don't think the problem can be tackled by adjusting the tracking. I've adjusted the tracking so the blade just occasionally touches the bearing. The teeth protrude the wheels slightly. But since the saw has flat tires I don't think this adjustment influences the tracking.

Wout

With a good blade you can get it to track anywhere on the wheel. If the blade hasn't been welded perfectly or has been bent. Then it won't reliably track anywhere. DAMHIKT :roll:

 

[sometimewoodworker]

The steel guard closest in the picture was pretty chipped and rusty så I've sanded it down and given it a coat of green Hammerite. Not the original colour, but I had a tin in the cupboard :wink:
One of the thrust bearings is badly scraped and partly ceased so I'm looking for replacements, maybe from the company in France who claim to stock parts. I'll report back if I get anywhere with them.
The original steel guide blocks have seen better days but will hopefully be soon replaced by jimi43 supplied lignum blocks. For the moment I've just cleaned the originals up and will run the saw with them so I have something to compare the new ones with.
I heard nothing back from http://www.spaceageceramicguideblocks.com/ so have given them up
One minor problem I have is with the table adjustment. The whole mechanism is made from cast alumiunium and in places is corroded and pitted, probably (at a guess) because the table had never, or seldom been adjusted. I managed to polish out most of the pitting but it doesn't slide very smoothly. Is there anything I can use to lubricate aluminium against aluminium ?
Otherwise everything is in remarkably good condition.
Hope to get the saw running by this weekend.

Mark

Green Hammerite was the original colour of mine so you may have just reverted back. The guide block faces can be smoothed in the same way that you would sharpen a plane, all you need to do is make sure you maintain the original angle, if the sides have been mangled by the holding screws just flatten them in the same way. The guide blocks should be long enough to regrind the faces many times (lower guides) and they are reversable.

The table never slid smoothly. Paste wax almost every where will help. I can probably count the number of times I have tilted my table on the fingers of one hand. I should probably check mine and disassemble my table (I never have).

The thrust bearing that is badly scraped and partly ceased will be the top and if you cant get it off then just swap it with the bottom. That one will be in near mint condition. BTW if you do get it off and get a replacement could you give me the detail of the bearing? I should do mine too.

It isn't clear from your photo the condition of the upper guide bar plate, the one you tighten it against. This should be about 1/4" steel and flat. You can see it in the 3rd photo on my website here. If it's not flat then flatten it. & if it's not flat this is probably due to the fact that the original design was for a thin, light aluminium blade guard (on the table in No.10 No.11 No.12) and yours is a later version and steel.

BTW I see you have an original Elu router table. Do you have the complete router accessory set that it's part of? With the clamps it makes a nice horizontal table.

 

[andpartington]

i have a inca fantastic band saw

to change the bearing remove the shaft with the bearing on it (small gubscrew)

get a 2x2 and drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the outer race of the bearing but big enough so the shoulder on the offset shaft fits through
or use the jaws on a metalworking vice opened so the bearing sit on top of them not clamped up

get a bolt or a drift and tap the shaft through it wont take much to get it moving

on the bearing there will be a coad this gives you the size of the bearings they are on ebay sold as bearings for roller scates (if you cant find the coad pm me and i will look at mine) I THINK ITS A 608ZZ but dont quote me on that

to refit put the new bearing on a chunk of scrap timber and tap the shaft in wont take a lot of force just keep it lined up after the first tap it will go in dead easy and line itself up

its an easy job will take 5-10 mins max

any probs or if u wont to know anything more let us know

andy

 

[sometimewoodworker]

i have a inca fantastic band saw
andy

Thanks for the bearing info.
How is your table adjust?

 

[andpartington]

not bad its not the easiest thing i did move mine a bit fair bit for some jobs a while ago wd40 has always worked for me on mine but its never been or will be a super smooth action

the best bit about the whole band saw is the nuts that hold the front cover on i love how you can spin them on and off with one finger

andy

 

[Krysstel]

First of all thanks a lot to everyone for all your comments and info which are a great help =D>

Jerome.
Thanks for the tip about flatening the guide blocks however I'm counting on replacing them with new (lignum) ASAP.
The original paintwork does look like hammerite but is a lighter shade of green than I've used on the guide bar plate.
Not reallly that worried about the stiff table adjustment as I doubt the table will ever be adjusted from flat but it was good to get confirmed that it's a normal problem and not because something was bent or out of line on mine.
I'll check the condition of the upper guide bar plate (steel on my saw) before I reinstall it but how critical is the flatness, and why ?
Can't remember which thrust bearing was which but you're probably right that the damaged one is from the top. I imagine the scrapes have been made by the blade running over it and the bearing not rotating since it was almost ceased up. The other bearing is indeed near mint condition but I'm going to do my best to replace them both.

Andy.
Thanks for the info regarding bearing removal. I'll try your method of tapping them out over the jaws of my metalworking vice.

Two new questions.
The circular plate the blade runs through on the table (probably has a name but I can't think of it now). Mine is badly chewed up. Is it just a matter of making a new one from ply or MDF or would I be better off trying to obtain a replacement from France ?
The plastic dust extraction port is broken where the screw goes in from the side and as a result been chewed up by the blade. Before I go to the lengths of either repairing or replacing is the dust extraction effective enough to make it worth my while bothering about it ?

Mark

 

[Krysstel]

BTW I see you have an original Elu router table. Do you have the complete router accessory set that it's part of? With the clamps it makes a nice horizontal table.

There's a story behind why that Elu router table is there which some may find interesting but since it's nothing to do with Inca bandsaws I'll start another thread :wink:
I'll edit with a link in a while...........
Edit : https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/burst-water-main-t57198.html

I think I have the complete accessory set but which clamps do you mean ?

Mark

 

[Steve Maskery]

The circular plate the blade runs through on the table (probably has a name but I can't think of it now). Mine is badly chewed up. Is it just a matter of making a new one from ply or MDF or would I be better off trying to obtain a replacement from France ?

That part is called the Throat Plate and it does get chewed up, especially when cutting curves. Most of us make a batch at a time and simply replace them as needed.
S

 

[sometimewoodworker]

BTW I see you have an original Elu router table. Do you have the complete router accessory set that it's part of? With the clamps it makes a nice horizontal table.

There's a story behind why that Elu router table is there which some may find interesting but since it's nothing to do with Inca bandsaws I'll start another thread :wink:
I'll edit with a link in a while...........
Edit : http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/burst-water-main-t57198.html

I think I have the complete accessory set but which clamps do you mean ?

Mark

the ones on the box

very unsafe way with the wood though :roll:

 

[sometimewoodworker]

I'll check the condition of the upper guide bar plate (steel on my saw) before I reinstall it but how critical is the flatness, and why ?
Mark

The plate I'm talking about is also steel on my saw, it's held on by 2 socket cap screws and you can see it behind the top wheel here.

It may not have been you that was saying that the top guides had some slop in them when tightened, but if it was then this is where the problem would manifest.

 

[Krysstel]

I'll check the condition of the upper guide bar plate (steel on my saw) before I reinstall it but how critical is the flatness, and why ?
Mark

The plate I'm talking about is also steel on my saw, it's held on by 2 socket cap screws and you can see it behind the top wheel here.

It may not have been you that was saying that the top guides had some slop in them when tightened, but if it was then this is where the problem would manifest.

OK, now I'm with you. I thought you meant the cover plate I've repainted with hammerite. #-o I'll check the plate you mean for flatness.

Edit - didn't see your picture at first.
No, as far as I remember I don't have the clamps but I would think something similar must be quite easy to get hold of.

Mark

 

[jimi43]

Hi Mark....you have a PM

Jim

 

[moerman]

Nice to see your bandsaw without it's clothes on... Here are some of mine. The first time I post pics here, so let's see how it goes.

Here is the top of the cover, showing the Flott logo

 

[moerman]

Proof that is is an Inca can be found on all cast aluminium parts, here is one on the upper wheel:

 

[moerman]

Here is one of my worries, the metal plate against which the sliding post is clamped is held in place by two screws on one side only, but it is able to rock a bit. This is transfered to the post which therefore leads to mistracking.

 

[moerman]

The second problem is the upper guide assembly which cannot be secured sufficiently. Result is that the guides can rock sideways by about 1 mm. The highlighted pin in the picture should keep everything aligned, but is seems to be to small in diameter to prevent this motion.

Any proven ideas to impove this? I am thinking of drilling and tapping a hole in the assembly and inserting a screw so I can tighten it, but other ideas are very welcome.

BTW, I haven't checked yet but I think the lower guides suffer from the same problem.

Thanks in advance,

Wout Moerman