In Cannel Gouges

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lignum42

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Please could you tell me how best to re-grind a badly chipped cutting edge of an in-cannel chisel gouge?

Is there a rounded grinding wheel available for a Tormek? Or possibly just a standard bench grinder?

I can't seem to find anything available in the UK. There are you tube videos from America where they are using a 1/4" wide round profile grinding wheel on a standard bench grinder.

Thanks
 
A Dremel tool with a grinding stone bit will do it. Keep it moving and use a delicate touch.
 
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You shape square grinding wheels to suit whatever you're doing with them, you can't buy specially shaped wheels (well, you probably can but it's not necessary). Shape the wheels with a devil stone or a diamond dresser.

I buy my wheels from Abtec, who also sell 1/4 wheels, just be wary that they are quite a fragile bit of equipment when they're that thin! Always check a wheel by sticking a finger in the bore and tapping the side of it with another finger nail, it should ring which tells you it's not cracked.

Grinding wheels - Bench/Pedestal/Abtec4Abrasives
 
Sandpaper and round sticks if it is a one time occurance.

If you want a 1/4" wide grinding wheel you'll have to find an industrial supplier selling wheels for surface grinders or tool sharpening. To shape the radius yourself with a diamond dresser of a wheel dressing stick.

Pete
 
Blunt the front edge of the gouge first, or you'll never get the edge even (not a huge deal, but you only need to do this once).

I use a 1/8" shaft conical in the drill press - silicon carbide or aluminum oxide - it doesn't matter, it just needs to be coarse and something you can dress with a grinder dressing tool.

https://www.zoro.com/powermate-vx-grinding-stone-5pc-set-p024-0138sp/i/G4100461/?recommended=true
beware when you're using stones like this, if you like a crisp corner on a moulding plane iron or incannel gouge, these will get a grip at the corner and pull the tool right past - that runs the crisp corner off (which looks funky - but that's a bigger issue on moulding planes than incannels unless you have a specific need for the corner).

Once I get a grind set, I usually use sandpaper by hand on a dowel or shape to finish the grind to the edge, then an india stone to complete the job before addressing the very tip (I used to use slips for this, but now I use a deburring wheel and a buffer - the edge is far better and stronger than you'll ever get by hand, but the primary bevel needs to be a bit shallower to give room for the small round over that occurs).
 
Thanks for your replies. They are all helpful and it's nice to know how other people get over these problems. I just couldn't seem to find anything on line. As soon as you use the word gouge you get pages of results on sharpening turning gouges.
 
I've never come across the term 'incannel' before (and I have 60+ yrs of wood work behind me!) - so I dialled it up on Google, and guess what the first site I came on told me not only that it is what I call an outside curved gouge, but also how to sharpen it.

So strictly I cannot criticise as I too was ignorant, and in many ways I thank the OP for the opportunity to enhance my learning, but what was he searching on that didn't bring up this site?

https://knowledge.axminstertools.com/using-in-cannel-gouges/
 
Some of mine are so soft that they can be filed, some are not and I use a grinding stone for die grinders, as said before a pillar drill works best. I always finish off with silicon carbide (wet and dry) wrapped around a dowel. Remember no bevel on the back.
 
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