There are so many routers out there that this can be a real "minefield" subject, as everyone will have their favourites. What would be really good for you is to find someone who regularly uses a router, then get them to show you what to look for. If that's not possible, you might want to consider a few of the following points:
1) Plunge routers MUST plunge smoothly. This sounds obvious, but once you try a few, you'll see how much they can vary. Do NOT get one with a sticky or jerky plunge.
2) Most routers have soft start now - i.e., the speed builds up slowly when switched on, so that there's no initial jerk. It's not essential, but if you will be doing more hand-held than table-mounted work, ensure that your new machine has soft start for more comfortable working.
3) Variable speed is a great facility - it increases the range of bits you can use. Most routers have it now, but there are those that don't. Speeds can vary between, say, 8,000 rpm and 20,000 rpm. You may not make much use of the facility early on, but it's very well worth having for a little extra on the price.
4) Collet size is important for future-proofing. If you get a router with a 1/2" collet, it will take half-inch, 8mm and 1/4" bits (via either separate collets or reducing sleeves). If you get a machine with only a 1/4" collet, you've immediately restricted your choice of bits right there.
5) Bit changing is very important, whatever the size of the router, and a lot of smaller and/or cheaper machines are let down in this area. Collets are released by either using two spanners to undo a locking nut whilst the collet is held with the other spanner, or by a single spanner and a spindle lock.
The spindle lock, in a good-quality machine, is generally of a plunge-pin type, which holds the collet shaft rigidly so that the single spanner can tighten and loosen the collet nut effectively. Cheaper machines can have all sorts of "iffy" methods of so-called "spindle lock" mechanisms, mostly so flimsy that they break long before the machine itself has given any useful life. Take particular interest in the quality and effectiveness of the spindle lock, if fitted.
6) Power is generally expressed either as HP or Watts. There is no substitute for power, but couple this with the size of collet. A 1/4" collet router will not benefit from more than, say, 1200 or 1400 watts, whereas a machine with a 1/2" collet will be able to use all the power - probably up to 2000 or 2400 watts.
I hope that's given you some additional info, plus some food for thought. I did a page on basic router safety a while back, which can be seen here if you get the time.
I'm biaised towards Triton routers, having owned their large machine (TRB001) for a number of years and their smaller one (MOF001) since it was released about a year ago. The smaller one is ideal for both table and hand-held use. Reviews of both, if you're interested, are here.
Ray.
1) Plunge routers MUST plunge smoothly. This sounds obvious, but once you try a few, you'll see how much they can vary. Do NOT get one with a sticky or jerky plunge.
2) Most routers have soft start now - i.e., the speed builds up slowly when switched on, so that there's no initial jerk. It's not essential, but if you will be doing more hand-held than table-mounted work, ensure that your new machine has soft start for more comfortable working.
3) Variable speed is a great facility - it increases the range of bits you can use. Most routers have it now, but there are those that don't. Speeds can vary between, say, 8,000 rpm and 20,000 rpm. You may not make much use of the facility early on, but it's very well worth having for a little extra on the price.
4) Collet size is important for future-proofing. If you get a router with a 1/2" collet, it will take half-inch, 8mm and 1/4" bits (via either separate collets or reducing sleeves). If you get a machine with only a 1/4" collet, you've immediately restricted your choice of bits right there.
5) Bit changing is very important, whatever the size of the router, and a lot of smaller and/or cheaper machines are let down in this area. Collets are released by either using two spanners to undo a locking nut whilst the collet is held with the other spanner, or by a single spanner and a spindle lock.
The spindle lock, in a good-quality machine, is generally of a plunge-pin type, which holds the collet shaft rigidly so that the single spanner can tighten and loosen the collet nut effectively. Cheaper machines can have all sorts of "iffy" methods of so-called "spindle lock" mechanisms, mostly so flimsy that they break long before the machine itself has given any useful life. Take particular interest in the quality and effectiveness of the spindle lock, if fitted.
6) Power is generally expressed either as HP or Watts. There is no substitute for power, but couple this with the size of collet. A 1/4" collet router will not benefit from more than, say, 1200 or 1400 watts, whereas a machine with a 1/2" collet will be able to use all the power - probably up to 2000 or 2400 watts.
I hope that's given you some additional info, plus some food for thought. I did a page on basic router safety a while back, which can be seen here if you get the time.
I'm biaised towards Triton routers, having owned their large machine (TRB001) for a number of years and their smaller one (MOF001) since it was released about a year ago. The smaller one is ideal for both table and hand-held use. Reviews of both, if you're interested, are here.
Ray.
