How to Hide glue veneering

[Colin C]

Hi all,
I did say this was going to be on days ago but have been busy around the house ( SWMBO :roll: ).
So here I will start with what you need to get going, all of which you can make yourself ( well not the double boiler but I got mine for £3 at a carboot).

One small tip weht filling the bottom pot,dont put in more that water than will just touch the bottom of the top pot as it will boil over if you do.

 

[Colin C]

You will need the glue but that is cheap and unless you boil the glue, it will last a long time.
You will also need a lest one veneer hammer ( I have two as you will see )

The handle or on in at 90 degres, they are about 5- 10 degres off ( I am not sure that this shows on the pics)

 

[Colin C]

The big one is 85mm across and the small one is 50mm, you can use brass ( which i think is best if you can get it ) or perspex.
The bodys are made from oak and have brass bolts through them, they need to be made from some that can be in and out of water alot ( beech will do to )

 

[Colin C]

Mixing the glue is the first step but if you dont get it right ( which is not hard )it can make for a hard time veneering.
If you first put some glue in your pot ( it will help if you use hot water but yyou can use cold and leave it over night ), say about 10-15 mm deep to start with and put you hot or cold water on top, making sure that you have covered the glue by about 5 mm.

More to come

 

[Paul Chapman]

Great, Colin =D> Looking forward to the next instalment.

Paul

 

[Colin C]

There should be some more today, I am just wanting for the glue to be ready .
As I am on the subject of the glue ( as I dont know how to do the moving post like Alf, on her veritas reveiw), I will have to just write this bit with no pics.
To tell if your glue is ready to use, it should run off the brush if you take it out of the pot ( like water ) but to make sure it is not too runny, if you put some on your thumb and fore finnger. It should still be taky when you pull your fingers a part ( it should be stringy, if that makes sence :? ), this will be a lot clearer when you do it ( I hope :roll: )
Ps Be carefull at this stage as the glue is HOT 8-[ #-o

 

[Colin C]

Some of the other bits that you will need #-o

You will need a cloth ( I use mutton ) and next it is my veneer saw but you can use a Stanley knife.

 

[Colin C]

With some hot water in your bucket and you veneer hammer too, you are ready to start :shock:

 

[Colin C]

You start by putting some glue on the board you are using and then put your veneer on it ( before doing this make sure your glue is not to thick).

You than have to put some glue on the veneer ( you should have also put your best side down on the glue), this you can put a little water.

You will then have to turn your veneer over and put some more glue on this side too but this you will need to thin out with some of your hot water ( it is just to balance the veneer when laying it)

 

[Colin C]

Now I can start to flaten the veneer with your hammer, making sure you go with the grain of the wood, if you dont and stretch the veneer, you will find that it might will split in the morning.
While you you are keeping your hammer at an angle to the grain but going with it.
This is when you will need your cloth, you will need it for wiping off the glue that will be no the top.
The glue will change colour as you push it to the end of your board

I hope this is clear :-k
Please let me know if you want to know any more

 

[Colin C]

When you have finished, it should be flat [-o< and just a little wet.
At thie stage you can trim the veneer on the end grainand cut some of the the long grain off but not all as some veneers can move a lot ( most will not if you dont get them too wet if you need to flaten some first ).
Thats it one side done , next I will show how to joint veneers without having to shoot them first .
Ps one more thing I forgot was an iron.
If some veneer has come up or blistered, you can put it back down with a warm iron and the face of a big hammer ( The one you use for putting in nails. just rub the face of it with some fine sand paper first, to make sure it has no bumps that willdamage your nice work

 

[Anonymous]

enjoying it so far and keen to see more

 

[Paul Chapman]

This is great, Colin - real-time veneering 8)

Some information on the best types of material on which to veneer when using hide glue would also be useful - for example, is MDF OK or would that swell too much?

Paul

 

[Paul Chapman]

Colin, another question - if you are veneering a free-floating panel, how quickly do you need to veneer the opposite side to prevent it warping? Presumably before the first side is dry?

Paul

 

[Paul Chapman]

Colin, sorry, another question (you'll end up wishing you had never started this :roll: ).

It's clear that with this type of veneering, the veneer becomes saturated right through with glue. Does this have any adverse effect on any finish you might want to apply or does the fact that the hide glue is water-based mean that it is compatible with most or all finishes?

Paul

 

[Bean]

Good one colin, enjoying this

 

[Colin C]

Hi Paul :-k :shock:
Let me answer your first questions :roll:
You can veneer on all most all materials ( it is MDF that I am veneering on ), it will be ok a long as you dont use to much water.

I dont have to veneer the other side of a panel right away but you will have to keep it flat by clamping or putting it under weight to keep it flat.i It would be better to do it right away but it would be a good idea to keep it flat until it is dry.

The veneer doe not become saturated right through with glue in most cases ( some veneer will but the cherry I am using does not), you do put glue on both sides to help balance the veneer but the glue on the top is watered down . It is also to help hammer the glue under the veneer, when you clean up the top all the glue should be gone or you will have problem getting an even finish.
You will get the glue coming through some burrs and woods like that.
I hope that clears that up 8-[

 

[Paul Chapman]

Thanks, Colin, that's helpful :wink:

Paul