How to free up handle on old braces

[Carl P]

I've got a couple of old braces where the handle has either rusted to the metal or shrank solidly onto it, anyone managed to free these up before? They're not particularly old or rare, in fact I'll only be selling them on fleabay, but it'd be nice if they were working - any advice gratefully received,

Cheerio,

Carl

 

[KevM]

If they were mine, and as you suggest not intrinsically valuable, I'd start with a few good squirts of penetrating oil or 3-in-1 and leave for a few days. The oil (probably!) won't do the wood any harm, it might remove any remaining finish and darken the wood but that sounds like the least of your issues for the moment. I've got some Ballistol that I bought on a bit of a whim to see if it was any different to every other brand of oil, this is described as safe for use on wood and leather. Apparently it was developed for the German army prior to the Great War and was used for every part of the rifle, including stock and sling, together with care of coats and hooves on their horses....
It seems quite pricey in the UK (I bought mine in Germany), and is a bit of an acquired taste with an unusual 'bouquet' when compared to some oils, but on the whole I like it*. For the small amount I get through the price is immaterial - I'm more likely to lose the can than finish it - but I do like the claims for skin safety.

I'd be interested to know how you get on with it - Good luck!

Kev

* I've just re-read this and it does sound like a review for a nice vintage of Chateau D'Huile - I'm not drinking it - really.

 

[Lawrence Hill]

Hello
I am assuming you mean a bit brace not a wheel brace?
Brake fluid is good as a penetrating oil and has some magic ingredient in it (can't remember what, but an engineer friend swore by it). If the wooden components get a bit stained then an oil finish may cover it up. Gently persuasion with a bit of heat afterwards (blow torch on metal bits for not too long) coupled with wresting the handle wrapped in rags or possibly using a car filter wrench or something similar used to release lathe chucks may assist by expanding then contracting the metal and breaking the rust seal (but don't set light to the brake fluid).

If you chuck a bit and clamp the bit in a metal work vice the extra traction might help when you turn the brace handle. If the chuck has flats on the outside already then these should sit tight in the vice anyway.

Best regards
Lawrence

 

[Carl P]

Thanks for the advice - I've not had time to do anything with them yet, maybe around Chistmas time. I did ask the advice of a car mechanic, he had a lot to say about it so here is an edited version:

Things to try:

1st- WD40 (got the feeling that he didn't really think this would work, but it's quick so why not)

2nd- soak in a cheap cola

3rd- soak in vinegar (the acid may help with breaking down the rust)

4th- soak in diesel, I got the feeling that this is what he would have done first except for worrying about staining and that diesel is horrible stuff that probably shouldn't be entrusted to people like me.

I've tried WD40, no luck, I'll post again when I've had a proper go.

Cheerio,

Carl

 

[wellywood]

Citric acid solution is also good for rust removal. I've used it to clean old plane blades and parts. You should be able to get citric acid crystals from your local supermarket.

 

[Trafalgar]

I've got a couple of old braces where the handle has either rusted to the metal or shrank solidly onto it, anyone managed to free these up before? They're not particularly old or rare, in fact I'll only be selling them on fleabay, but it'd be nice if they were working - any advice gratefully received,

Cheerio,

Carl

If a couple day's soaking in kerosene or paraffin lamp oil won't free it then it's likely not worth further efforts.

 

[TobyC]

I've got a couple of old braces where the handle has either rusted to the metal or shrank solidly onto it, anyone managed to free these up before? They're not particularly old or rare, in fact I'll only be selling them on fleabay, but it'd be nice if they were working - any advice gratefully received,

Cheerio,

Carl

If a couple day's soaking in kerosene or paraffin lamp oil won't free it then it's likely not worth further efforts.

I agree, or turpentine.

 

[Vann]

Citric acid solution is also good for rust removal...

I'm not sure what that would do to the wood?

Cheers, Vann.

 

[KevM]

I've used oxalic acid for cleaning up a vice that was rusted solid, when I took it out of the solution after a week the hardwood cheeks were fine. Some chemistry wonk can doubtless steer you straight. Oxalic acid is used as wood bleach, but I guess it all depends on solution strength and the state of the wood to start with.

 

[wellywood]

Citric acid solution is also good for rust removal...

I'm not sure what that would do to the wood?

Cheers, Vann.

Vann. I've used a citric acid solution to get rid of rust on a chisel without affecting the wooden handle (I stripped and refinished the handle anyway). I always use demin water just in case there are any tannins in the wood that might be affected by tap water.
There are proprietary timber cleaners on the market which use a mixture of oxalic and citric acid and which claim they will not affect any existing paint or stain coating.
Cheers,
Pete

 

[Carl P]

I'd not considered using citric acid after the horrible staining it made when spilled on some untreated pine (ie my workbench!), but I will use it as a last resort. I'll cover the wood in beeswax anyway to hopefully slow down penetration on the finish.

- as far as to whether it's worth putting in all this time and effort, obviously it's not, they cost me next to nothing and even if working perfectly they won't be worth much more, however I hate to see an otherwise good tool junked and I am interested if it's possible to sort out this particular problem, and if it is, hopefully it will benefit everyone.

Cheerio,

 

[lincs1963]

Don't know if this will be useful in your particular case, but, a lot of people who are involved with the restoration of old vehicles tend to make their own freeing/penetrating fluid. It is a 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and paint thinners. I can confirm that this mixture does have some magical properties.
Cheers, Neil

 

[Carl P]

Just thought I'd let everyone know the results if anyone is interested.

Firstly two successes, both now turn freely. I tried parafin first as I had some to hand - cut a slot in a plastic milk bottle and propped it up in the shed for a few days. Of course it had no effect whatsoever. I had been thinking about the heating of the metal to expand/contract but was reluctant to do this given I'd just soaked some wood in parafin. However I realised (a little belatedly) wood moves, so I clamped it fairly hard in my bench vice and moved it around to clamp again on a different side, trusting the solid metal bar of the brace would stop the handle from splitting, and it worked, I tried it on the other brace with no parafin, and that worked too. One of them has already been sold on ebay, so if you've ended up with a brace that has a dodgy smell, you know who to blame.

Cheerio,

Carl