How to check a Pillar Drill bearings

[jweaver]

Hi.. After a frustrating couple of months trying to find a Pillar drill, I have just bought a Fobco, which was slightly more than I wanted to spend, but local, so the fuel costs are lower than I budgeted for.. I havn't seen it yet, so I have agreed to buy based on the descriptions/photos..

It has one problem and thats a snapped bolt which holds the motor in place, but I am hoping I can removed this without too much trouble..

I asked them to wind the quill down and check for play, and I got a very vague answer.. In truth, I don't think they were being obstructive, I don't think the seller has any engineering knowledge, so I am going blind.

If I took my dial gauge, what exactly am I looking for... How do I check the bearing for play? And whats acceptable?

I assume I wind the quill down and check for movement as it rotates... Is it as simple as that?

If the bearing are worn, how much effort is it to change them?

Thansk in advance for your replies.

Jon

 

[Spindle]

Hi

To check the quill for play, extend it fully - grip the chuck and try to move it forwards and backwards then side to side - you will feel any play there is in the quill, (if you look at where the extending portion of the quill meets the drill body you may also see the play.

To check the concentricity, (run out), of the chuck, take something you know to be cylindrical with you, (a 1/2" drill would suffice). Place the drill in the chuck and set your dial gauge to bear on the drill as close as possible to the chuck - rotate the chuck by hand, (using the pulley wheel not directly connected to the chuck), and observe the run out.

Regards Mick

 

[jweaver]

Cheers Mick.. I didn't have time to check it.. There was no wobble and I just figured "what the hell". Even if I have to change the bearings it would be a nice little project.

It wasn't particularly cheap, but was a lot less money that most that have sold recently, so its a good starting point.

Now I have seen the sheared bolt, I am more worried about that.. Assuming its metric, is M8 (although I suspect its 3/4"). Either way its not as big as I thought and I hope it comes out with the tools I have available to me.

Cheers

Jon

 

[marcros]

first thing, get some penetrating oil on it- NOT WD40!

Then you have a few options, depending on what you have to grip etc. Do you have a stud extractor?

 

[jweaver]

first thing, get some penetrating oil on it- NOT WD40!

Then you have a few options, depending on what you have to grip etc. Do you have a stud extractor?

Was going to use 3-in-1 oil.. I have some spray.. If thats not right, I will pick up some branded Penetrating Oil from Screwfix.. I need to wait till I get home so that I can see what I have on my shelf.

Its broken flush, so my ideas are:

1. Drill and stud extractors
2. Weld on a nut (I have a MIG) and try not to wreck the surrounding material/powder coat
3. Drill it out to M10 and replace the bolt.

But I am open to ANY other suggestions before i make it worse..

Jon

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I'd go for the MIG solution - I'd use an M6 nut to make sure I didn't weld the broken thread to the casting.

Regards Mick

 

[jweaver]

Hi

I'd go for the MIG solution - I'd use an M6 nut to make sure I didn't weld the broken thread to the casting.

Regards Mick

Cheers.. I am going to drill it first, and then try a stud remover, just to see what happens.. If not, the 'hole' will help with the MIG anyway, as I will get better penetration.

I saw an interesting tip on using a MIG.. First weld a washer on, and then a nut to the washer.. With a nut, you have to weld 'inside' of it and its easy to miss, and not get any penetration.. But welding on a washer is easier.

I am going to have a crack tomorrow.

I managed to find 5 mins to unload it and had chance to check it out and it seems OK.. Louder than I thought, but when I removed the belt, the motor is the noisy bit (And its not that noisy).. It just causes vibrations which resonate through the floor.. The drill head/quill/pully are rock solid and there is no slack, so I think its OK.

The belt looks a bit slack and the motor is quite a long way out.. But even with the motor locked in its current position, I can still move the belt between the 4 positions.

But I think I am goign to replace the belt and will find one a bit shorter than the one currently installed, so I can bring the motor forwards an inch or so.


So I have a few jobs to do, but overall, I think its pretty good!

Fingers crossed getting the bolt out.. .Rather than replace it, I am going to weld a new bit of thread, onto the stock lever and grind it back, so that it stays as original as possibld.

Jon

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I'd just puddle it in the middle of the nut, you'll get enough penetration :wink: and the heat will free up the thread if it's corroded.

I just can't be bothered with extractors if I can get access with MIG. I use Snap On extractors when I have to - seen / experienced too many cheap extractors compounding the issue by breaking off flush with the thread

Good luck

Mick

 

[jweaver]

Hi

I'd just puddle it in the middle of the nut, you'll get enough penetration :wink: and the heat will free up the thread if it's corroded.

I just can't be bothered with extractors if I can get access with MIG. I use Snap On extractors when I have to - seen / experienced too many cheap extractors compounding the issue by breaking off flush with the thread

Good luck

Mick

I admire your confidence in my ability .. Whilst I have a MIG and after fairly proficient on thick stuff, I am not a great welder and not very accurate... I fear that I am going to make this worse by welding the bolt to the casting.

But I am going to have a crack at it.. Got to grab situations like this with both hands.. Its the only way to learn.

Out of interest, we are having a debate about "penetrating oil".. I grew up referrring to "3 in 1" as penetrating oil.. Have a 3 in 1 spray.. Would that do, or is a proprietary "Penetrating Oil" likely to be better? At the end of the day, this isnt' exactly corroded, so I am making more out of this than I should.. I have a feeling that the drill has been knocked over at some point (or bumped), hence the reason the lever snapped off (And the belt cover is a bit lopsided because one of the threaded rods is bent)..

Jon

Jon

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Its easy - centre an M6 nut over the broken thread and clamp in position somehow. Just aim the MIG wire down the hole in the nut and stop when the weld pool reaches the top of the nut, leave to cool and unscrew.

I wouldn't call 3 in 1 a penetrating oil - yes it will penetrate but it's primary purpose is to lubricate not penetrate. Plus Gas is a pretty well know brand of penetrating oil, but if you're MIGing you won't need it.

Regards Mick

Should have said - slow the wire feed down and drop the amps as much as you can whilst still maintaining a steady arc

 

[jweaver]

Hi

Should have said - slow the wire feed down and drop the amps as much as you can whilst still maintaining a steady arc

Cheers Mick.. I am glad you said that, as I was going to up the power to try and get penetration.. I will give the MIG a go.. Just hope it doesn't damage the paint/powdercoat too much as its in quite nice condition.

Jon

 

[twothumbs]

Diesel makes a good penetrating oil ...don't need much... a driibble from the pumps or a dip stick into the tank and leave it for a while. Best wishes.

 

[jweaver]

I did a few experiments with welding a nut some scrap today and ran out of skill.. I didn't have the confidence to build up the weld as i was worried that when i did it for real, i would burn the paint, or worse.

so i decided to have a got at using a stud extractor.. Tried a 3m, hole first and the extractor tore itself out.. So then i went to 4mm and the bolt just wound out... Phew..

I looked at the bolt on the others side and its bent, so i am going to replace them both.. Going to find some imperial bolts,cut off the heads and weld the old levers onto them to try and keep it looking original.

I spent the day greasing, oiling and cleaning the drill and sits come up nice.. Obviously got some war wounds due to its age, but its in pretty good shape.. Everything was quite stiff, but after a squirt of oil all over, everything is loose and smooth.. Just go to do the following and i think i am done.

1. Get a new belt.. The current one is 39".. I think i will try a 38"

2. Get some 3/16" threaded bar or bolts and try to "make" new motor bolts using the stock handles

3. Fit an NVR switch. I realised that the specifications plate comes off to reveal the wiring.. Tempted to cut out a rectangular hole on the switch and flush mount an NVR... But am not sure if there will be room inside.. Failing that i might take out the old switch and fit over the top... Just got to see whats available..

All in all.. A good day.l looking forwards to getting the belt and bolts so i can take it for a spin..

Jon