How much to allow for movement etc in wood...

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Stanleythecat

Established Member
Joined
27 Mar 2014
Messages
64
Reaction score
0
Location
Charfield, South Glos
Hi folks

I'm about to buy some tulip wood for framing some kitchen cabinets. I was hoping for about 27/28mm thick when finished. What thickness should i be buying to allow for movement/settling when we bring it into the new environment so that i can plane it back to my finished size?

Many thanks

Leo
 
There will be negligible dimensional change due to moisture content change at that thickness. The wood will have been dried to 7% MC ±2% in the US, the target MC for kiln dried wood in North America, and the chances are that, after some moisture regain since drying, the wood will be somewhere in the 9 - 12% MC range when you buy it. You'll need to buy rough sawn 1-1/2" stuff to machine it to the thickness you're aiming for, allowing for at least 6 mm of thickness loss during initial machining to square. You might just about be able to get 27 mm out of 1-1/4" (32 mm) thick stock if you can find it, but to be sure you should buy 1-1/2" thick stuff.

Here's a bit more information for future reference. With shrinkage factors for yellow-poplar (tulipwood) of 8.2% tangentially and 4.6% radially in the MC range of 0% - 30% you can expect a 100 mm wide tangentially sawn board to change in size in service by about 1 mm for every 4 percentage points change in MC, say between 8% and 12 % MC (a fairly typical MC range in a residential kitchen). A radially sawn board, similarly 100 mm wide is likely to change in dimension by about 0.6 mm over the same moisture content range. However, you can virtually discount dealing with radially sawn poplar because the American sawmills, cutting for the commercial market, always convert sawlogs to boards using the crown cut method, thus pretty much every board will be tangentially sawn, with maybe a bit of rift sawn wood towards one or both the outer edges of a board. Slainte.
 
My experience with tulipwood is that boards with green streaks are much better than boards which are a muddy grey to cream. Also it varies hugely in quality, sometimes boards are lovely and flat, sometimes badly twisted.

When I order tulipwood for cabinet doors, I tend to think specifying flat boards is more important than width and length as generally cabinets have quite small components. If your lucky enough to collect and select it is much easier.

For 27mm finish you are better to start with 11/2" thick stock as Slainte mentions. You might get away with 1 1/4" stock especially if your doors arent very tall, which means you wont loose much thickness if the boards are bowed. The problem is that the timber might be tight in thickness, say 30mm or it could be generous and up to 35mm.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top