How level should a bandsaw table be?

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Apache_sim

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I have just taken delivery of a new bands saw from Axi, with what I perceive as a few problems. The table is not exactly flat.
Across the right edge corner to corner is dead flat
Across the left edge corner to corner 0.60mm out of true
Diagonally 0.75 mm one way and the other 0.65mm out of true

First of all am I being paranoid are those errors acceptable?

The second issue is the blade guide adjustment wheel has approx 100 deg backlash, which does seem execessive.
I spoke with Axi who said they would replace the Bandsaw thane did nothing..

Any advice would be appreciated
 
Which model bandsaw have you bought?

The important part is that the blade runs at exactly 90° from the table front to back and side to side. Getting the blade running true is the key and these videos may help you

THE BEST FROM A BANDSAW 'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well, but if you want to get the best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.

For checking the tension of your blade - A Flutter test Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8zZuDosSy0
Tension goes hand in hand with the correct balance of the blade.

Have you checked the table 'stop' under the table so that it can be set to the same position each time it is moved? Not sure what 'backlash' is, but if you mean that the blade slopes backwards at 100 degrees, it is way out. ?

If you have just taken delivery and Axminster said they would replace it, it hasn't been long enough yet, unless this was a while ago. What is the time slot on this please? They are usualy good on their guarantees and if it's faulty, they will replace it.

Malcolm
 
Bandsaw is not a precision tool. Anything under 1mm is OK.
Not sure what your 100º backlash means.
 
You will be pushed to find a piece of wood accurate enough to notice the table difference, getting a blade that can cut to that accuracy on every sample of wood you present is even more unlikely.
You are likely to find that the table moves more than these amounts during the different seasons as the casting moves with temperature changes.

If it's the hand wheel operating a rack and pinion rise and fall on the blade guard just over a quarter turn is excessive, check that there is no adjustment on the tooth engagement of the rack against the pinion.
Some play is not a problem, in fact desirable, as you don't want it too tight as it will be prone to sawdust contamination in use and can seize up if not cleaned regularly.
 
i have never checked mine, but your flatness sounds acceptable to me.

not sure what you mean on the backlash either though.
 
On a large cast table I would consider that acceptable, it's certainly more than flat enough for what it needs to do and probably a good bit flatter than your workbench or any other surface in your house.

Don't understand the backlash bit.
 
I think what the OP means by backlash is the turn of the guides, i.e. some guides have knurled nuts that are used to move the guide towards the blade. I think what he means is that when it locks it has a third of a turn in play, hence 100 degrees.

I may be wrong but this is what I took it to mean.
 
Apache Jim. You should be fine. In use, natural blade flex will often give you more run out than the effect of the very slight lack of flatness in your table. Rarely in fact are you using the whole table anyway as often the fence will be close to the blade. Whether the backlash is a problem (if it as assumed above_ depends on whether or not you can effectively control the settings on the machine - if you can, then there is little problem. Bandsaws are quiet crude machines really. I have a 16" Jet and the table is flatter than yours, but I still get cut variations depending on all sorts of things like what blade i have in, how thick the word is, what timber it is (some cut better than others) how dry it is, how worn the blade is and so on.
 
Thank you all for the advice I was clearly expecting too much from my new saw (being paranoid).
The issue of the backlash in the Blade Guide (plastic wheel) adjuster.
The blade guides adjust correctly and once locked in position are unlikely to move, however, the adjusting wheel moves quite freely about 100 deg or so before the gears in the rise and fall mechanism engage (i.e. the worm gear is not in close enough contact with the spur gear) I think this is more of a build quality issue than a fault.

Just not what I would expect from a new machine.

Thanks again for the advice I will be a little more relaxed now about the FLATNESS of the table.
 
Apache_sim":1gqjscoz said:
.......(i.e. the worm gear is not in close enough contact with the spur gear) I think this is more of a build quality issue than a fault.
........
Check the fixings for the rack you may be able to move it closer, even open up the fixing hole (or file a slot) to allow a bit of sideways movement.
 
Worth a check and if not just a case of slackening a bolt and retightening in new position list it as "A Round Tuit" for when it's outside any warranty.
 
Go back to axminster and ask for help. Dont shout and whinge and threaten, just ask for help to get the thing to your liking. I've found them to be an exceptionally helpful company for advice.
 
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