How do you re-honing?

[GEPPETTO]

Hi All,

how some of you know I'm in trouble with a plane blade which doesn't want to keep a good keen edge. For information I haven't gone ahead.
SWMBO asked me if I built a picture frame hence tedious blade is put aside ( for this moment)..I have done a lot of sharpening and honing...

I have had to hone the other plane blades butI'm again in doubt. :?:

Let's come to the point... primary bevel at 25° and micro at 30°... but after the blade has weared.. how do you proceed with honing? I explain better: you re-grind at the angle of primary bevel until the microbevel is disappeared or you only honing the microbevel more times during the work again until you have the micro is become too long and at that point you must re-ground at the primary bevel?
I hope to have explained in the best way :roll:

Cheers, Gabriele

 

[Scott]

Hi Gabriele

Just re-hone the micro bevel until it gets too long.

When you regrind the primary bevel try to leave a tiny trace of the micro bevel. That way you only grind the minimum and waste less metal

Cheers

 

[bugbear]

easy way; primary angle is worked using quite a coarse abrasive.

secondary angle is worked using finer abrasive. This goes quick, because the area being work is small. As honing is done, the secondary bevel gets longer. When honing is no longer quick, work the primary angle again, but only to reduce (not eleminate) the secondary.

BugBear

 

[GEPPETTO]

Hi All and thanks for answers.

We newer, don't never end to learn.

Excuse me again, when I regrind the primary bevel it's easy to maintain the precise angle because the surface is quite large (if the blade if quite thick) hence how do I can do it on the microbevel? Perhaps does it only matters to have the burr on the back flat? I premise I usually work with free hands, except when the blade is ruined and it needs too much honing.

Re-thanks in advance

Cheers, Gabriele

 

[bugbear]

hence how do I can do it on the microbevel? ...I premise I usually work with free hands,

It is impossible to "seat" a blade on the tiny secondary bevel. One either has to have perfect spatial ability to do it freehand (moving your hands in a perfectly flat and stable line), or you use a jig.

BugBear

 

[engineer one]

i know we should not be suggesting that you spend more money, but it is at this time that a jig really helps. with the standard (cheap) jigs, you could make a wooden extra jig which allows you to put the primary bevel on by just laying the chisel on, and then butting the jig to the right place.
for the secondary bevel, just make another space about a mm or 2 deeper, then re-set the jig.

or go mad, and buy a veritas Mk1 or 2, to give you the moveable roller which changes the micro angle..

so the answer is, YES you just keep rehoning (sharpening ) the primary bevel until it backs up to the end of the secondary. then you start again.

but also remember that you have honed, you need to back off the wire edge caused.

paul :wink:

 

[bugbear]

you could make a wooden extra jig which allows you to put the primary bevel on by just laying the chisel on, and then butting the jig to the right place.
for the secondary bevel, just make another space about a mm or 2 deeper, then re-set the jig.

Here's a setting jig;

http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4images ... ge_id=3508

For micro bevels, I've seen shims used in the above jig.

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

hence how do I can do it on the microbevel? ...I premise I usually work with free hands,

...or you use a jig.

BugBear

Further to "use a jig", here's a quote from Mario Rodriguez, a craftsman and teacher of note, and a contributing editor of Fine Woodworking

When I apprenticed as a carpenter, I was taught to hone
my chisels and plane blades without the benefit of a
mechanical guide. At first, all I had to show for my intense
efforts while hunkered over whetstones were a sore wrist,
hollowed stones and uneven convex bevels on my cutting edges.
With practice, my honing technique improved. But developing
this skill required a great investment of time and discipline.

You may not want to make that kind of commitment when you'd
rather spend your time building furniture. So how can a woodworker
consistently obtain a razor-sharp edge without the investment
of time an apprenticeship demands? Use a honing guide.

Jim Kingshott said in his sharpening book (from memory)
that he was perfectly capable of sharpening freehand
(I suspect he was better than most) but he got better
edges with a jig.

BugBear

 

[GEPPETTO]

bugbear, many thanks for the suggestion


Cheers, Gabriele