How do you hold your circular saw?

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Mark A

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Hi chaps,

I'm curious to know how you hold your circular saws; left-handed or right-handed? If you grasp it right-handed (right hand on the trigger), as the vast majority of people do, then it's awkward to see the cut line as the body of the saw obscures the view.

I ask this as I'm a leftie who finds using a conventional circular saw rather unwieldy with either hand due to the layout. It doesn't help that I have a lump of a saw (an 8kg Hitachi), which I'm considering replacing with a left-bladed saw as I think it would be more comfortable for me.

Any advice would me much appreciated!

Cheers,
Mark
 
I hold mine right handed and don't have any issues at all. My dad on the other hand (see the pun?) is left handed and also has no issues. The only thing he has to do is release the trigger lock with his right hand.
 
Mark. Have a look at the thread 'Left Handed Plunge Saws'. It might suit you if you're going to by a new saw anyway.
 
I use mine with either hand depending on convenience, it can often be awkward trying to get yourself and the invariably large lump of wood into optimum position.
It is easier to see the cutting edge when using left handed, but the best cuts are against a guide which removes the need.
 
monkeybiter":2lhr1tk7 said:
It is easier to see the cutting edge when using left handed, but the best cuts are against a guide which removes the need.

I've tried using the saw left handed but it didn't feel right, for some strange reason. I'll experiment using it in different positions tomorrow. If I still can't find a comfortable way to hold it I'll consider importing a left-bladed saw from the States.

Mark
 
My saw is a bit battered, has lost its tail guide? ( the bit of metal that follows the blade along the cut ) and like to fire a lot of sawdust in the general direction of my face when I am the right position to see the cut line.

I get round this by using a set of clamps to secure a bit of battoning to the work and just run the saw up against it. Nice perfect straight cut and I dont even have to look.
 
tool-me-up":3h29qrxe said:
My saw is a bit battered, has lost its tail guide? ( the bit of metal that follows the blade along the cut )


That'll be the riving knife. It's designed to stop the wood closing back up and pinching the blade.
 
MMUK":1mn5ciaa said:
tool-me-up":1mn5ciaa said:
My saw is a bit battered, has lost its tail guide? ( the bit of metal that follows the blade along the cut )


That'll be the riving knife. It's designed to stop the wood closing back up and pinching the blade.
thats the bit, works fine aslong as work is peice is supported - should buy a new saw really but never have any spare ££ lately
 
I also have a Festool track saw, so a straight edge/guide would be superfluous for my big Hitachi circular saw. It's when I'm cutting timber freehand I struggle to find a comfortable hand position.

I'm a bit apprehensive about importing tools from the US in case they're faulty and the warranty is null and void, so another option could be a left-bladed cordless saw which are available over here. I was planning on replacing my cordless drill and impact driver in the future anyway, so it could work out okay if I bought them all as a kit.

In your experience, how good are cordless saws? I've read they go through batteries very quickly.

Mark
 
As said i use the makita. With good sharp blades i have cut 40mm works, ripped edges / bottoms off hardwood doors. Cross cut/ ripped timbers ply without issue. Battery life is ok, yes the saws do drain the batteries quicker than drills. Also with the makita, if you use a fresh battery and it goes flat while cutting you have to let the saw cool down for about 15 min. That is from makita themselves - listen to them as i didn't once and it cost me a new saw body.
I had melted the brushes/ holders into the body. #-o :mrgreen:

They are not a complete replacement for mains saws, but i use mine 99.9% of the time. I only use the mains one if i know i will be ripping timbers down for hours upon end.
 
Li-ion last a lot better between charges than ni-cd or nimh - got for a good brand though, makita, dewalt, etc
Let it cool down as Carl said.
Get it from a big outlet, avoid ebay as there is often a fart on with warranty - some sellers are spot-on and will replace straight away while some will jerk you about as long as possible because until the manufacturer warrants the claim they will be out of pocket.
Its something you wont know until your in that position but its worth bearing in mind, especially if your in the trade and need a working tool asap.
 
This has thrown a spanner in the works - I can buy a Dewalt wormdrive saw, rip guide and 4 CMT 24-tooth blades for £219 delivered from Amazon.com. Apart from my lack of a 110V transformer and possible issue that the warranty will be voided, is there any sensible reason why I shouldn't go for it?

American carpenters swear by their wormdrive saws and claim they're almost indestructible, plus they're left-bladed which I think should be easier for someone cack-handed like me to use.

Or there's still the cordless option :-k


Mark ](*,)
 
tool-me-up":1cblgkm8 said:
MMUK":1cblgkm8 said:
tool-me-up":1cblgkm8 said:
My saw is a bit battered, has lost its tail guide? ( the bit of metal that follows the blade along the cut )


That'll be the riving knife. It's designed to stop the wood closing back up and pinching the blade.
thats the bit, works fine aslong as work is peice is supported - should buy a new saw really but never have any spare ££ lately

You should really have one, most people on here would probably shoot you on sight for not having one :lol:

However, you could make one from a piece of steel or alu plate if you're feeling brave :)
 
The Makita cordless and my Porter cable don't have riving knives :D That is the one thing i like about tools from the USA - minimal safety features to get in your way :lol:

PS you don't need one attached to the saw, just use a wedge of some sort as you get down the cut. ;)
 
carlb40":jnssm01w said:
Don't forget to add VAT and import duty to that price. Search on ebay for worm drive saws and there are sellers who add the TAX/ duty to the price. That way you will get a rough idea of the price.

Or use this
http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-impor ... lculation/

Any item - even used over £15 imported from outside the EU attracts the VAT/ import duty :(


Is it this saw?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEWALT-15-Amp ... 1c3ab1ccb9

Nope, this is the saw from Amazon.com That price includes duty and carriage, so I think it's a pretty good deal.

I've just found a used saw for sale on Woodwork UK, but I'll have to wait and see on that one.

Mark
 
mark aspin":db1yce0a said:
carlb40":db1yce0a said:
Don't forget to add VAT and import duty to that price. Search on ebay for worm drive saws and there are sellers who add the TAX/ duty to the price. That way you will get a rough idea of the price.

Or use this
http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-impor ... lculation/

Any item - even used over £15 imported from outside the EU attracts the VAT/ import duty :(


Is it this saw?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEWALT-15-Amp ... 1c3ab1ccb9

Nope, this is the saw from Amazon.com That price includes duty and carriage, so I think it's a pretty good deal.

I hate to tell you Mark, but that's the USA Amazon site and dispached from USA so you WILL get stung for VAT & import duty when it arrives on our shores. Also the free shipping applies to USA only.
 

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