How do I cut a baton diagonally on a table saw?

[Gary_S]

Hi, I want to put triangle shaped batons into the corners of a crate I am making. I thought it would be a simple case of getting a square shaped baton and cutting it diagonally. It would work but looks dangerous. Pushing it through would be an invitation to the casualty department. Also how would I feather it safely?

Gary

 

[novocaine]

cut it from a wider plank. cut 1 of each side then set back to straight and cut the angle off.
or attached you square stock to something else. the above option is better.

 

[marcros]

use a mitre gauge, or build a sled for the saw.

 

[novocaine]

use a mitre gauge, or build a sled for the saw.

I'm assuming he wants to rip cut a long strip

 

[Brentingby]

I agree with ripping it from wider stock. Rip off the edge with the saw at 45° and then flip the board end for end and move the fence over to rip off the corner piece. If you need more than one, flip the work and move the fence again. Do not place the narrow piece between the blade and the fence. Keep the wide piece of the work against the fence.

 

[marcros]

use a mitre gauge, or build a sled for the saw.

I'm assuming he wants to rip cut a long strip

Re-reading, I think that you are correct.

 

[OM99]

or just use a sacrificial fence and push stick to feed the piece you inted to cut.

 

[custard]

I agree with ripping it from wider stock. Rip off the edge with the saw at 45° and then flip the board end for end and move the fence over to rip off the corner piece. If you need more than one, flip the work and move the fence again. Do not place the narrow piece between the blade and the fence. Keep the wide piece of the work against the fence.

+1

Don't extend the rip fence beyond the centre of the blade (the arbor), some excellent sawyers bring the fence 20 or 30mm back from that position. Fit a false fence if necessary.

Make sure the design and length of your push sticks allow you to safely take the workpiece through and clear of the blade. Ideally your fingers wouldn't come within 300mm of the blade, that's tricky with the cut you're proposing but is still do-able, 200mm safe clearance is easily do-able.

Beware of dipping your hand/push stick at the end of the cut, that's the dangerous moment. If you've never done this cut before have a dress rehearsal with the power off so that you can imagine where your hands need to be at every stage of the process.

Get the widest straight board you can and have a clear view in advance on when it'll be too narrow to continue (when does a wide board become a narrow board?). That to a large part will be determined by your push stick and guarding arrangements plus if it's a left or right leaning saw.

A feather board holding the work against the fence in advance of the blade might be useful, or a second push stick to do the same job, but don't allow this second push stick to advance alongside the blade, a mark on the fence can help.

It's not okay to think, "well I don't have a straight, wide board available, so I'll implement all this good practise next time". Go buy a straight wide board. No straight wide board...no cut.

Never remove the guard/riving knife, no matter how tempting that would be to gain some additional clearance.

Get all this sorted and it's an easy, no stress operation. If you're tensed up like a spring and gripping the push sticks with white knuckles then you're at risk, rehearse some more until you're confident then relax, this cut is just part of the job and with the right precautions it's no big deal.

 

[blackrodd]

For 50mm Arris cuts, An easy jig would be a piece of ply with a stop batten under the end, set the still parallel fence to 25 mm in the centre of the kerf, feed the ply into the saw until the stop batten touches.
you then will need a batten each side of the saw kerf fixed to the ply to support the 50x 50 being cut.
The better you make this the better it will last, I have a long piece to be cut and don't need push sticks,
I never attempt to cut what I can't hold safely, around a metre or so.
Don't worry about wasting a meter of, keep fingers safe!
A "universal" Arris jig would be to make a zero clearance insert and fixing a decent piece of hardwood that has had a vee
taken out of the top, this will support the base being sawn, just set the saw fence to the size required.
Regards Rodders