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Honing jig best ever, no joke

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Jacob

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barkwindjammer":gk1kidea said:
So it is. We have you to blame for it!
I might even have a go myself. The vertical could be a broom handle with a nail. The angles set by hole positions in the holder part. Countersink the under-side of each hole and round off the top of the broom handle to form a ball and socket joint.
 

condeesteso

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I remember this one too, it is actually brilliant I think. Keep meaning to knock one up. I do have a feeling that honing across the edge would be good... just feels like it should be.
 

Digit

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It strikes me as an overly complex hammer for nut cracking. I use a wooded 'saddle' made to 45 degrees, or as needed, that straddles the honing stone. The stone is fitted to a paxolin base and the saddle rides on that, about one tenth the size of the example in the vid.
Also, by the nature of the beast, I would expect a curved edge on the iron.

Roy.
 

bugbear

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Digit":2ikh0sf1 said:
Also, by the nature of the beast, I would expect a curved edge on the iron.

Roy.
Since the angle made with the stone is nice and constant, and the stone is flat, where would a curved edge come from?

The grind marks will be curved, of course.

BugBear
 

woodpig

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Grind will be flat but the jig itself is pretty large I reckon.
 

bugbear

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woodpig":2xtj6t0x said:
Grind will be flat but the jig itself is pretty large I reckon.
Not exactly compact, is it, and the blade clamp's a right old fiddle. Design is always about compromises.

BugBear
 

bugbear

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Digit":16x8jnb4 said:
Grind will be flat
In theory, yes. But based on using a flat rotating water stone I found that was not so.

Roy.
I've seen such a process generate a skewed grind, since the grinding is faster at the perimeter.

I don't understand how you'd get a camberedd edge unless the blade was (unintentionally) being laterally waggled a bit. I that's the case, the curve isn't coming from the circular motion, it's coming from the waggling.

BugBear
 

Digit

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The sharpening medium breaks down during the grinding action, thus the leading edge will always have more removed than the centre, working to and fro should therefore result in a double skew or curve shape.
I'm not suggesting several mil off each edge of course.

Roy.
 

DTR

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Wears the stone unevenly, and reproducing the angle relies on the stone maintaining a constant thickness... You should learn to sharpen freehand Jacob. Try it, you'll thank me for it once you've got the hang of it.









(homer)
 

Jacob

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DTR":kpk4bjy2 said:
Wears the stone unevenly, and reproducing the angle relies on the stone maintaining a constant thickness... You should learn to sharpen freehand Jacob. Try it, you'll thank me for it once you've got the hang of it.
(homer)
It's not for me. I thought it could help you lot in your struggle!
To even out wear you'd move the stone about a bit, as necessary. To get the right angle you'd check the set up every now and then with a protractor.
Protractors here for those who don't know what they are. Not to be confused with the LV bevel setter - which is a (sort of) protractor but with important angles missed off for no apparent reason.
 

DTR

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Jacob":1w6fsbfr said:
It's not for me. I thought it could help you lot in your struggle!
My struggle? I don't have a struggle, but thanks for your concern.
 
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