Honing jig best ever, no joke

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barkwindjammer":gk1kidea said:
So it is. We have you to blame for it!
I might even have a go myself. The vertical could be a broom handle with a nail. The angles set by hole positions in the holder part. Countersink the under-side of each hole and round off the top of the broom handle to form a ball and socket joint.
 
I remember this one too, it is actually brilliant I think. Keep meaning to knock one up. I do have a feeling that honing across the edge would be good... just feels like it should be.
 
It strikes me as an overly complex hammer for nut cracking. I use a wooded 'saddle' made to 45 degrees, or as needed, that straddles the honing stone. The stone is fitted to a paxolin base and the saddle rides on that, about one tenth the size of the example in the vid.
Also, by the nature of the beast, I would expect a curved edge on the iron.

Roy.
 
Digit":2ikh0sf1 said:
Also, by the nature of the beast, I would expect a curved edge on the iron.

Roy.

Since the angle made with the stone is nice and constant, and the stone is flat, where would a curved edge come from?

The grind marks will be curved, of course.

BugBear
 
woodpig":2xtj6t0x said:
Grind will be flat but the jig itself is pretty large I reckon.

Not exactly compact, is it, and the blade clamp's a right old fiddle. Design is always about compromises.

BugBear
 
Digit":16x8jnb4 said:
Grind will be flat

In theory, yes. But based on using a flat rotating water stone I found that was not so.

Roy.

I've seen such a process generate a skewed grind, since the grinding is faster at the perimeter.

I don't understand how you'd get a camberedd edge unless the blade was (unintentionally) being laterally waggled a bit. I that's the case, the curve isn't coming from the circular motion, it's coming from the waggling.

BugBear
 
The sharpening medium breaks down during the grinding action, thus the leading edge will always have more removed than the centre, working to and fro should therefore result in a double skew or curve shape.
I'm not suggesting several mil off each edge of course.

Roy.
 
Wears the stone unevenly, and reproducing the angle relies on the stone maintaining a constant thickness... You should learn to sharpen freehand Jacob. Try it, you'll thank me for it once you've got the hang of it.









(homer)
 
DTR":kpk4bjy2 said:
Wears the stone unevenly, and reproducing the angle relies on the stone maintaining a constant thickness... You should learn to sharpen freehand Jacob. Try it, you'll thank me for it once you've got the hang of it.
(homer)
It's not for me. I thought it could help you lot in your struggle!
To even out wear you'd move the stone about a bit, as necessary. To get the right angle you'd check the set up every now and then with a protractor.
Protractors here for those who don't know what they are. Not to be confused with the LV bevel setter - which is a (sort of) protractor but with important angles missed off for no apparent reason.
 
Jacob":1w6fsbfr said:
It's not for me. I thought it could help you lot in your struggle!

My struggle? I don't have a struggle, but thanks for your concern.
 
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