Homemade disk sander or something else?

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if you are worried about MDF, how about hardwood ? Ply ?

it only take a few mins to knock one up, so easy to test the theory.

This sanding disk above looks home made, and would have the same balancing issues as any pulleys !
 
Can i ask what glue you used to stick the sheets on ??? and if you dont mind I will copy your design

Roger

I use spray adhesive. The sort for card. If you use linen backed abrasive sheets they just strip off if you use paper they leave a sheet of paper on the MDF. If you want to clean up the MDF use the disc sander to do that running an abrasive block against it!

Of course you can copy the design...it's only a simple box after all.

Two things...the top slides back and forth and locks into place with screws...you need to be able to push it up against the revolving disk and screw tight for zero slot at interface. This stops little bits getting stuck.

Balancing...just use a sharp chisel on the edge until if forms a perfect circle while running...simples!

The dust box has a little wall sticking out (you can just see it...) this creates voricies within the box to some extent and aids removal of dust which is sucked out by a wet and dry vac (Aquavax) from a bootfair.

The motor/pulley etc came from my next door neighbour but any motor/pulley will do.

Jim
 
dont forget to accompany it we can do this ...

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Greetings . . . . I realize I am late to the party here, but I ran across this homemade disc sander idea on Pintrest and I wanted to see if anyone here might know of any plans - or have any ideas - about how to take this idea, but have the disc sander as a horizontal/flat surface ... kind of like a motorized lazy susan type deal? (hope I described that clearly enough)

The reason (and goal) for my question is because I like to build my own custom drums (as in musical instrument) and rather than attach a big ole sheet of sandpaper to a table surface (for a kind of truing surface to level out the shell edges), I would love to have a motorized horizontal disc sander onto which I could lower the shells - varying from sizes 8" diameter to 22" diameter - and sand/true them evenly with the circular sanding motion.

make sense?


Thanks for any thoughts, ideas, reference/resources you may be kind enough to share. :)



TOM
 
CaptainMarvel":1m6wuw7g said:
Greetings . . . . I realize I am late to the party here, but I ran across this homemade disc sander idea on Pintrest and I wanted to see if anyone here might know of any plans - or have any ideas - about how to take this idea, but have the disc sander as a horizontal/flat surface ... kind of like a motorized lazy susan type deal? (hope I described that clearly enough)

The reason (and goal) for my question is because I like to build my own custom drums (as in musical instrument) and rather than attach a big ole sheet of sandpaper to a table surface (for a kind of truing surface to level out the shell edges), I would love to have a motorized horizontal disc sander onto which I could lower the shells - varying from sizes 8" diameter to 22" diameter - and sand/true them evenly with the circular sanding motion.

make sense?


Thanks for any thoughts, ideas, reference/resources you may be kind enough to share. :)



TOM

Hi Tom

I would say that you need a type of thicknesser sander which has no top...I'd say that would be more controllable.

If you want to go down the circular route..I would say you would be better off fixing a motor so the shaft plate pointed upwards...take my idea and lay it over on it's side.

Then you will need a table with a clearance hole cut in the centre and a mechanism which raises and lowers the whole table surface around the spinning disc.

You have to be careful because you need almost zero clearance otherwise anything may get trapped in the gap and pull things into the rotating disc.

I don't have plans for my vertical circular one as I just threw it together from an idea my next door neighbour started...he gave me the ex-lathe mechanism from an old lathe he had.

Hope this helps

Jim
 
Eric The Viking":33m3scdm said:
. For my application (flushing the loo - don't ask!),


Awe common E :wink: I've waited for someone else to ask but I can't be the only one who just HAS to know - spill the beans........Go on....promise I won't laugh :)

Bob
 
[thread hijack alert!]

Cor. I'd forgotten all about that!

I built a cheap cistern into our top bathroom a couple of years ago. This wasn't just because I'm a cheapskate, but because I wanted a syphon flush (can't stand those EU-flap-valve disasters, and a lever went with the design better than a push button). The only one I could easily get didn't let me arrange the mechanism as I needed to.

It's built-in back-to-front (hangs on the framework, not the wall behind). There's a built-in cupboard bang next to it on the left, and the lever and the inlet valve are both on the right.

Normally, the handle is on the same side as the syphon inside the cistern. It had to have a side-entry valve, otherwise you couldn't maintain it (couldn't get at a service valve underneath because of the boxing-in). So... valve, handle and syphon all needed to be on the right side, but they wouldn't all fit! So I ended up with this:
cistern.png

It's roughly to scale, and you can see it's a right toadstool*. You're looking from the front, through the boxing-in. The handle is out front (obviously), with a long shaft going through into the works. I cut a slot in the lid, so that the bigger pulley could stick out above. That's partly for the aesthetics of the front (handle needs to be up high), partly to ensure a good flush (water level needs to be as high as the syphon allows).

The green circles are the pulleys I needed. They are different sizes so that there is a mechanical advantage - less force needed on the handle for an easier flush. This doesn't mimic the normal arrangement with a crank, because this one is actually a chrome door handle and already has internal springs. they were too strong and I had to fettle the mechanics too. Getting it "just so" was rather a pain.

The drawing is wrong: the big pulley does NOT have a central pivot. It's offset. The flush starts with maximum leverage, and as you continue to turn the handle you get more movement and less leverage (the radius increases). It's more like a cam than a pulley really. That's why making the disks was tricky - I couldn't have a central through hole as it would have got in the way later. I think the smaller one is a double pulley, with two sizes glued together to finally sort out the gearing, but to be honest I've forgotten!

I'll take a pic of the finished arrangement if you're not bored by now, but heck, it's only a toilet!

The V-grooving jig is more interesting, but I'm not sure if I've still got it - that worked really well. My 'small circle jig' for the router table is OK-ish, but I learned enough to make several improvements, and because the original is a bit, er, hostile ("how far can your router table chuck MDF disks?"), I'd rather wait on that until I've got a better design fully tested.

E.

*no mushroom anywhere! (I've got me coat already).
 

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Nice to see this thread revitalised. Someone was asking recently about cleaning up bronze castings one might find on Ebay.

Would seem to be ideal for the task. (Sander not toilet)
 
If anyone is still reading this thread, when using MDF for a home made disk sander, is it better to seal the surface of the MDF before attaching self adhesive disks or leave it 'natural'?

Cheers

Tomsk
 
Tomsk":2af3eo20 said:
If anyone is still reading this thread, when using MDF for a home made disk sander, is it better to seal the surface of the MDF before attaching self adhesive disks or leave it 'natural'?

Cheers

Tomsk

Hi Tom

I just left it natural.

In actual fact the abrasive paper you get...the rough cheaper stuff...de-laminates when you tear the old disc off leaving a perfectly flat layer of paper on the MDF and you just glue another disc to that....If it gets a bit lumpy just hold a sanding block up to it and sand it flat! :wink:

It's a very self-supporting system as you can see.

I also found that 300mm discs from Axminster work out well but they are for fine stuff...and leave a great finish.

If you want the sander for fast stock removal or metal grinding...use 60G yellow stuff...the AlO I think.

Cheers

Jimi
 
Post passed in the ether!

I don't find the piece of MDF I used does break up but I have a feeling (if my memory serves me)...that it's MR MDF which may be stronger.

J
 
Thanks for the two very speedy replies!

I have Axminster 120g disks coming tomorrow. Eventually I thought I may replace with velcro however Axminster seem to have no 300mm velcro disks at the moment and I was in something of a rush as usual...

I have read that using a heat gun first helps to debond the adhesive, but my concerns were that either the unsealed MDF would absorb too much of the adhesive or that it may not stick properly if sealed...

I guess I may have to do half and half!!

Cheers!

Tomsk
 
afaik you can can't use a speed controller on an induction motor but how about using one of those yellow 110v transformers as used on building sites?

2800rpm to 1400rpm or less?
 
There is no way to reduce the speed of a single phase induction motor either with a speed controller or by reducing the voltage with a transformer or any other method.

The speed is solely defined by the frequency of the supply.
 

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