Home Made Drum Sander - WIP

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Finally got the drum round and level. Its now varnished and next week to fix the Velcro and then give it a try.

Still a few glitches to sort. The pulley wheel isn't exactly round and thus it creates some vibration. So need to redo that at some point.
check out the video.

https://youtu.be/8iIVsevv5GA
 

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I know you were only sanding the drum round but how did the motor do, no sign of it bogging down?
Seems like, from the video, you've got a fair bit of vibration, is that easily sorted?
Looking good so far =D>
 
Looks great!
Is the belt tension supplied by the weight of the motor? I read on a few drum sander threads that this can cause the motor to bounce and add vibration. Your motor looks quite jumpy. Maybe once you have the required tension you could lock it in place?

I still really like the simplistic approach you have here and I'm sure you'll iron out that vibration.
 
The pulley attached to the drive shaft is not correct. Its off centre, which means that when the motor is on, it has the effect of lifting the motor up and down by 1/2". Speed that up by the RMP and you get the vibration. I need to turn a new one to remove the majority of vibration.
The motor hangs from a hinge and that is what gives the tension. I also noticed that the drive pulley isn't exactly parallel to the shaft pulley. So again some minor tweaking to sort.

Any ideas if there is a right or wrong way to mount the velcro or the sanding paper onto the drum. ie clockwise/anti or left to right, alternative the two a different way or am i over thinking it??
 
Finally starting to test it. Miscalculated the amount of velcro, back to eBay again.
This is how it works. It definitely needs s dust cover. As you can see in the video I start hacking at the end.

http://youtu.be/5jxuA1q5nNQ
 

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No, but i think i need to. Today's task is to dismantle and apply varnish to all but the table top. Start making the dust cover and belt guards. Then lastly stick another layer to the table top for rigidity.
 
Well done, jobs a good 'un.
Does it cause any snipe at the ends like a thicknesser ?
 
So far so good. Well done!
I'm also interested how it will fare with a wider board.
 
Progress today on a wet and miserable day in London.

All varnished. Top doubled up for stiffness.
 

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Nolegs (either that's an unfortunate name or its a literal reference :)

No, I don't see snipe, mind you if I did I'd shoot them if in season.

I think you could use as a thicknesseser but if you are to remove large amounts of material, it might take a while.
I saw on other posts that they recommend 60 or 80G. I have 120G on the video and it takes off a lot quickly. So 60g would be pretty quick. I might order some 80g during the week.
It seems to have a natural way of working, I mean i don't think I can push it too quick. The finish it fairly even. I only did what you see in the video so when I get the extra Velcro I'll do a proper video.
 
Nice job and thanks for the WIP. I think everyone is a little too concerned with 'kick back' and the potential of the motor 'bogging down', we must remember these machines are designed for finishing and not heavy duty wood removal, they only take off fractions of a millimetre with each pass and therefore there will be no chance of a grab, the work is pushed through at a steady rate with minimal effort.

Andy
 
Andy
Good point, what you see in the video, i only use minimal effect to push through. If i left it go it would have probably stayed in place (not that I'm going to try it). But as you say, i raise the bed until it touches the piece slightly. But even then you can see the amount of material that comes off quickly.
 
Did you true the drive wheel yet? There still seems to be some vibration. Some bracing across the top may help with that. Well done on this so far. Looks like a great machine. Really inspiring me to get on with mine!
 
Mike
No, not yet. The mini lathe I have isn't centred. This may be a stupid question but do the jaws on a chuck go in a specific way.
I must check they were put in right, I assume the numbers on the jaw are referenced on the chuck.
Other option is to use the faceplate on my wood lathe to true the wheel up.

Taking collection of a startrite this weekend so may get distracted.
 
Yes the jaws in a scroll chuck do go back on by the numbers, wind them all the way to the centre to make sure they line up and you haven't skipped a 'thread' with one of them.

If you pop a piece of scrap in the chuck and turn a mandrel with a slow taper you can tap the pulley on that and then skim the outside knowing that it will be true.
 

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