High build lacquers for kitchen worktops

[imaginarynumber]

hi all

My client currently has kitchen work tops that have been factory finished with a durable clear coating. Whilst they seem durable there are a few spots where the wood underneath has discoloured. There doesn't appear to be any sign of damage to the finish so I assume that perhaps it is some kind of minor de-lamination?

They want me to strip it and refinish. I am guessing that it is some kind of two pack finish but I have no idea what products would be suitable. I have seen similar finishes on pub bars in the past.

Any suggestions?

Additionally can I burn off the existing finish or will I need loads of Granat paper for my Rotex sanders?

BTW the clients will be away so I am not worried about isocyanates etc.

 

[Chrispy]

This is one big job your thking on, I would be doing everything I could to convince your client to allow you to Oil their worktop.

If the existing finish is as tough as you say and has still not been tough enough to last says a lot to me.

I think you wont be able to "burn" it off with out burning the kitchen down, and a paint type stripper wont touch it either so yes a sharp cabinet scraper and lots of abrasive paper and elbo grease.

then please oil it or you will be doing it all again in a few years, NONE of the finishes that I know of are classed as good for kitchen work surfaces, if you do find somthing that may work please do a sample and get your client to OK it for both finish and durability.

 

[imaginarynumber]

Hi Chrispy

An oil finish will not be acceptable to them. The doors and drawer fronts all have the same finish.

If I can find the right finish I will end up using it at my own home. fed up with the constant process of sanding back to the wood, re-oiling.

 

[Woodfinish Man]

If it has to be a lacquer then Acid Catalyst (AC2) lacquer is the best one to go for. It is primarily designed for spray application but can be brush applied so long as a dedicated AC Brushing Thinners is added at a ratio of 2 parts.

The lacquer itself is a two-pack material that is mixed 9:1 and is available in six different sheen levels (5%,10%,25%,35%,50%,90%). I have to disagree with Chrispy, something like MC paint remover will remove the old lacquer but as it's onsite this isn't a option (MC ((Methylene Chloride)) paint movers are only sold for use in industrial premises). Therefore an electric sander would be the best course of action.

Once this is done two or three well brushed out coats should be applied taking special care to get good coverage around any edges or seals, particular the sink area.

If you find that the sanding process still hasn't taken out the black marks then using oxalic acid with some warm water on the affected areas will do the job.

Really hope this info is of some assistance.

 

[imaginarynumber]

thanks woodfinishman, that looks like what I am after. I shall look into the product in greater detail when I finish work.

Application will be hvlp. Clients will be on holiday so not worried about them and fumes

Many thanks