OK, an explanation of how to sort out the riving knife:
I hope you can see what's going on here. The shoulder of the arbour, against which you clamp up the saw blade, is the datum (reference) surface. Ideally, the mount for the riving knife will be set very slightly to the left, as the RK is thicker than the saw plate (as I've shown it). This is a nuisance once you start swapping blades. Here are the two surfaces' alignment compared, with the RK and the blade removed for clarity:
The distance between the green and red lines is not a lot, but it matters. If the left edge of the new blade's kerf ends up inside the red line, the riving knife will catch, and actually promote kickback, rather than prevent it. Here's an exaggerated comparison of old (grey) with new overlaid:
You can see that the left edges of the two saw plates both end up in the same place, but everything else moves about! So you probably have to shim the riving knife (your new, thinner one from Axminster!), so it matches the new blade, ending up in the blue position in the last diagram.
Trying to measure those alignments on the saw will send you mad. Don't attempt it! What you can do instead is measure the blades and riving knives, with a vernier caliper or a micrometer, and do some simple sums:
Things you need to know:
1: The thickness of the old and new saw plates. Write down HALF the value and call them Sp1 and Sp2 respectively.
2. The thickness of the old and new riving knives. Write down HALF the value and call them Rk1 and Rk2.
3. The kerf each blade should cut (either written on the blade, or you can measure the width of the teeth). Write down HALF those values too, as Kf1 and Kf2.
Things you need to work out:
a. Sanity check: the new riving knife must be thinner than the new blade kerf (else don't pass "GO" nor collect 200 quid).
b. With a narrower blade, the centre-line of the whole lot moves towards the left. You need to know by how much:
Sp1 - Sp2 = X (blade centre-line shift)
c. Similarly the centre-line of your thinner riving knife also moves across:
Rk1 - Rk2 = Y (riving knife centre-line shift)
d. (the crucial bit)
If Y is bigger than X, you can line up the riving knife by shimming its mounting, to get it approximately correct.
If Y is smaller, you will have to find or make a thinner spacer to replace the one on the riving knife mounting, to bring it to the correct position.
Good news: I know a lot of people use Freud blades on the TS200 without problems, so it's a safe assumption that the Axminster riving knife
is thinner than the Freud blade. As for the rest, you'll have to make the measurements and work it out.
I do hope that works. If my diagrams don't help, try sketching it yourself on a bit of paper - you'll get the hang of it! And it's much easier to work through in real life than it is to explain, too.
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