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Here we go, diagonal b w tissue box

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devonwoody

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drawing 1w.jpg


Here we go, I have drawn the face front to size, but haven't convinced myself what the outcome for the tissue box pattern ends are to be.

Using that dodgy blackwalnut in stripes to cut down movement and the maple seems staple. I think the BW has a bit of sapwood (there seems to have been a lot on the big board).

might be straight back in, see the temp?
 

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devonwoody

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Had a good day in the WS. Temp. started at 4C and felt a bit nippy.



Cut the strips to approx length and set thickness at 7.5mm but used a type of mahogany (called Brazilian) instead of maple because it is something of a trial run.

I made an angled template to lay on my mitre jig, (sorry forgot the pics.) and needed lots of clamps because of compound angles. (next time I will glue and create a straight edge and perhaps use 18mm thickness and resaw down to 9mm when timber has formed its required shape)

timber glued with mitred edges ready for corners.



Glued and screwed down on my setting up board as normal.
However I am very disappointed with my new Bosch IXO screwdriver, in my opinion its not better than a toy, you dont need a torque attachment either, its difficult enough to get the screw all the way in, it could not manage a number 4mm x 30mm screw in to my setting up board without considerable effort. (Its going back to the suppliers, its has a fault as well, the direction mechanism is weak, and it was purchased on the net and I think I have the right to return goods so supplied within 14 days if dissatisfied with a purchase.

It was not made in China either, it said Hungary, hope they are not making parts for the Volkswagon there.



The two fronts of box glued and clamped to my setting up board in the usual form.



Went back in the afternoon and finished up at a temp of 20C and 60 humidity, Perfect!


 

devonwoody

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I found pictures I had taken at the morning session of how I adapted my mitre jig to do the compound mitres.

I cut a piece white of melamine by hand to around 72 degrees and cleaned it up on the sander.
A trial run was done with my jig and I hope the outcome will be successful.



 

devonwoody

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The front and back board have now been formed and I horizontal bottom edge to box has got to be cut.



Straight horizontal markings were done with a pencil to create the bottom edge and then cut with a Japanese handsaw, I used many clamps to keep the cut reasonable and straight.



Three of the waste offcuts finished like this, which I think is amazing, that Titebond 3 is holding the other piece by around 1 mm and is very good




The bottom edges were cleaned up using my old number 4 & 5's one of which I purchased 55 years ago for ~~DIY jobs.



Top edge was made using the bandsaw and planes again.



To design the ends I have created this picture to copy and printed out to take into the WS later today.

 

marcros

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what are you going to do for the top DW? plain or try and match the stripes?
 

marcros

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i hope that I havent mislead you.

In your original sketch brain-twister-please-help-t59878.html the stripes were wider, and were in effect a right angled triangle with 2 equal sides, covering the corner top left and bottom right. This I had assumed that you wanted to wrap onto the end, so it was a covntrasting 3d corner. On the actual box, this is not what you are doing, so the advice that the hidden sides were the same may not be correct. I cant quite picture what you are going to do, without either sketching it out, or making the design from a cornflake box!

Looking back, the easiest way may have been to make a long piece of timber using the stripes, dimension it to the height of the sides, and then cut the 4 pieces from it. Too late now, and I am sure you will work it out. I look forward to seeing the result.
 

devonwoody

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The problem that seems to be that I am wanting the bottom right hand corner to start at the same pattern point, that ties me because dimensions change when the box changes direction at the corners and still trying to maintain pattern, so if proceeding as that last picture above I cannot maintain the design because the tissue box must have a certain fixed width size.
 

devonwoody

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marcros":swk9kf08 said:
are your 2 long sides identical?
Yes they can be, or one could be turned at the moment.

I am only around 3mm short of duplicating one of my long pieces and cutting that in half to produce the ends and mainting pattern.

I might thin down the work already done to give me the extra width. (from 7 to 5 mm thickness)

Going out in the shed now to make a duplicate and see what happens.
 

marcros

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The other alternative could be to join the stripes with horizontal ones across the ends and tops then.

I have an interesting idea for your next one when the time comes...
 

devonwoody

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Pleased to say, "Alls well that ends well"

Its working.

This was how.

timber prepared for ends.



I created the end pattern by using the paper plan as a former.



And did one end only as a dry run.



However it would not maintain pattern at other end because mitres would face the wrong direction (I'm glad I only cut mitres for one end first)



I cut the final end to pattern plus mitred on its inside face of timber and got to keep pattern.



Tried the dry run fit. (although it looks as if the pattern has lost a decent fit, its OK something to do with Parallax of the mitre angle makes it look wrong on the inside) I will do a video and post the outside later showing the pattern whilst box turns.



All faces laid out ready for the glue up, (I shall keep this picture safe to remind me in the future how pattern pieces are created to get a match )



Do a video later of the box showing how pattern is maintained.
 

devonwoody

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Cleaned up the box yesterday with two sanders, one is set at 80grit and the other 120, ready for shellac and wax.



Most probably keep this one myself.

In the meantime I pulled out some stock boards of maple and black walnut and got another three boxes underway at the request of my wife. It appears some more friends have expressed their desires.

 
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