Help with Startrite 352

[busy builder]

I have just purchased a Startrite 352 and I'm attempting to adjust the blade guides.

I can adjust the top ones to within 1 -2 mm of the blade, but I cannot fathom out how to get the guide (discs) behind the blade teeth as stated in the handbook.
On the bottom guides I am attempting to adjust the guides to almost touch the blade, as shown in the book, by undoing the lock nut and turning the allen bolt from the top. Well I can undo the lock nut and turn the allen bolt but nothing seems to be happening to the guides, which are also on the teeth.

The blade is as supplied 12mm 7tpi and is in the middle of the crown on the top wheel, which I assume is where it's supposed to be ??

Thanks, Andrew

 

[woodiedonald]

Do you mean to say that you are trying to move the guides forward and back when viewed from the front of the machine so they are in the correct location behind the teeth of the blade?

It should be possible to move them back and forward by loosening the locking nut which holds the whole guide assembly and thrust rod (back guide) in place.

The blade seems to be in the correct place, in the middle of the wheel.

Can you post a picture to try and make it a bit clearer? It might help.

Cheers
Donald

 

[busy builder]

Okay thanks for the reply but i've sorted it, according to Startrite the blade should be set so the teeth are slightly protruding from the wheels. So i did that, got the blade running right then looked at the guides/assemblies.

I had to move the top guide assembly back to clear the teeth on the blade, but the bottom guides were well stuck. I think the problem stems from when the saw was delivered it got wet as the rain was coming down like stair rods.

So I removed the whole assembly off the machine and sprayed it with penetrating fluid as the guides were stuck and wouldn't adjust up to the blade. This sorted the whole mess out and I now have the guides set correctly now.

Just one more problem which I think is down to the blade ?? as I feed a piece of timber into the blade it deflects off to the right and gradually gets worse till it almost jams. i have some blades fro Tuff saws so will try one of those.

Sorry if I'm boring anyone good enough to read this but this is my second band saw, my last one was a decrepit ELU that I only used for firewood, so in all honesty this is really my first band saw, and after spending time looking and buying it I sort of expected a bit more.

 

[Racers]

I run my blade in the middle of the wheel, the wheels are crowned so it you run it with the teeth off the blade will be at an angel.
Get a new blade before you do any thing else, Tuff saws are recommended by every one on hare.

Pete

 

[woodiedonald]

If the blade drifts (cuts a an angle) a lot, more than approx 5 degrees then its either a dull blade or not enough tension. With the guard fully up the blade shouldn't bend more than approx 10 mm when pushed firmly with your finger (from the side, don't touch the teeth)

Are you sure it says the teeth should slightly protrude from the wheels and not that the guides should be slightly back from the teeth? I think I had problems in the past with the saw not cutting straight and the problem was that the tracking was off, I could be wrong though, that was a long time ago!

 

[Lons]

Hi Andrew

I've just bought an old 352 and posted a thread on here just a week ago regarding the thrust rod guides (still sorting a solution).
A great saw but I'm sure my instructions say the blade should run on the centre (crown) of the wheels as Pete says.

I'm still trying to date my bandsaw, do you know the age of yours and if so is the serial number anywhere near mine ( 96896 )?

Bob

 

[Argus]

Hi Andrew

I'm sure my instructions say the blade should run on the centre (crown) of the wheels as Pete says.


Bob

The blade needs to be sharp and positioned in the centre of the top wheel, the rubber tyre coating of which must be intact with no lumps missing. Align the blade on the wheels, then set the tension to what ever you require in use. Next set the position the blade on the wheels. The wheels are slightly crowned and if it is not positioned correctly it will damage the wheels (expensive to fix) and probably fly off in mid cut.

With the power OFF the door open and the guides set free from the blade, rotate it by hand; set the running bias with the round knob in the middle of the top wheel until it runs in the middle of the wheel with the same distance from the edges of the blade to the edges of the wheel both sides. I think there should be a couple of arrows on the knob to show the direction of adjustment. The bottom wheel will take care of itself. You need to do this each time you change the blade or adjust the guides.

When you have done this, set the guides in the normal way.

all best and hope that this helps.

 

[busy builder]

Thanks for all the advice, most helpful.

My instructions state 'The point of the teeth should slightly protrude over the edge of the band wheels'

Now I can see where I've misunderstood this instruction, I read band wheels for wheels, I think I can see where I've gone wrong here, but to a novice it's not very clear.

I'll put a new Tuff saw blade on tonight and check for drift again.

My saw is not very old, its the newer grey model.

 

[Argus]

My instructions state 'The point of the teeth should slightly protrude over the edge of the band wheels'

.....................................

My saw is not very old, its the newer grey model.

Have they changed the shape of the wheels? They should be about 1.5" wide and the top one is crowned (i.e. curved in shape)

I think that the teeth should protrude slightly in front of the guides, not the edge of the band wheels.

What has been described here is the method of setting the wheel tracking.
Aligning the blade with the guides and thrust is the next step after the blade is tracking true.


.

 

[busy builder]

I just watched Alex Snodgrass setting a bandsaw up, very informative video. I put on a new Tuffsaw blade and set it up as described on this video, its now tracking true and cutting straight as it should. The Startrite instructions are rubbish.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU