help with spalted maple

[treefella83]

this is the first piece of the spalted maple that i have put on the lathe but the trouble is i think it is too far gone .
i mean that it is mostly dry dozed and rotten but with heavy sanding it looks lovely.
the problem is that i used danish oil to finish this peice and after FIVE coats of danish oil i still have large patches of matt areas that will just drink the oil and still not give a fine finnish.
is there something i can treat the wood with after roughing out the next bowl or should i use another finnish or / and sealer ?
this timber is far to good to be fire wood.
these pics were taken after one coat of danish oil and dont really show the problem.

far to good to be fire wood

thanks jon

 

[mr]

Ive been told , and Its very likely that I've misunderstood, that superglue or Cyano Acrylate (?) will stop the rot so to speak.

 

[CHJ]

jon, try soaking the 'soft' areas in sanding sealer, it may take several coats (applied before it completely hardens) until you feel it is well saturated.

Leave it to dry and then see how it feels and sands, CA glue is very good for small areas but would be rather expensive for such a large piece as that.

You may of course have to select a different finish to oil as it will not penetrate the sealed areas.

If you have areas that are eroding due to poor material strength try 'filling' with a mixture of fine sanding dust and sealer/CA glue/clear UHU, the finished areas treated often fit in well with the already mottled appearance.

 

[jasonB]

Flood it with a few applications of celulose sanding sealer, after your iniyial sanding. It firms up the wood then you can sand to finer grits and finish with wax or friction polish

Jason

 

[treefella83]

cheers thanks all

 

[skjerstad]

I read on another forum that they soak roughed out blanks in 50/50 mix of water and PVA glue. Not tried it myself but will give it a go when the need arises.
cheers
Michael

 

[Horst Hohoff]

Hello,
There was an article in Woodturning No 117/p. 79. The author referred to an older article in Woodturning and the solution was washing up liquid, to be precise a 1 : 1 mixture of washing up liquid and water. He soaked the blank in it for about 5 days. The wood was as good as new, he says.