Help with blotchy finish

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My experiments with wood stain on Pine have been pretty awful, I always end up with a blotchy mess. I find that sanding to very grits can really help, but on areas where I have tear out that I have missed, it stands out a mile. So aside from being more careful in that respect, I was wondering if I would have an easier time with the tinted oils?

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pro ... foundation
http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pro ... -oil-tints

And would they be any different to using a diluted sanding sealer (50% sealer, 50% meths) as a first coat, then the dye, and then an oil finish (Tung/Danish/Polyx)?


I also have some shellac on order to experiment with.
 
Use some kind of washcoat first, then stain. I'd avoid dye. Sanding well also helps.
Basically, you're trying to prevent pigments from penetrating deep into the wood.
Pine is difficult in this sense.
 
Try coloured varnish and if needed adjust the colour with stain added to the varnish. Avoid water based varnishes and stain.
 
Waterbased stain, especially with pine can be assisted by conditioning the wood with a damp (water) rag just before application, this helps to even out the stain, and reduces the endgrain from taking more colour than the rest.

Obviously raise the grain with water once or twice first and cut back - sand.
 
Old finishing guides, and some better modern ones, emphasise that it's better to colour the wood and then use a clear finish on top than to colour the wood exclusively with a coloured finish. We're all familiar with why from being exposed to ghastly faux-mahogany stuff made from pale woods with a coloured finish on top where when there's rub-through or a scratch the exposed wood is like a beacon.

That said, Bob Flexner's advice on the simplest and easiest way of dealing with blotching on woods like pine that are prone to it is to rely on gel stain. Gel stain being thickened coloured varnish.

transatlantic":1osheaow said:
And would they be any different to using a diluted sanding sealer (50% sealer, 50% meths) as a first coat, then the dye, and then an oil finish (Tung/Danish/Polyx)?
You can use any clear finish applied first instead of commercial preparations for preventing blotching (what the Americans call wood conditioner). Shellac is great for this because it dries so fast so it doesn't add much to the finishing time.

Not sure if you're aware so I'll mention it, anything like this reduces the depth of colour you can get from a dye because it's partially sealing the surface.

If you do decide to try coloured varnish don't thin it for the first coat. Subsequent coats can be thinned, but if you dilute the first coat it'll sink into the wood more and some blotching will occur.
 
transatlantic":3pp7sqin said:
Myfordman":3pp7sqin said:
Try coloured varnish

Can you give an example of a good product?

Sorry I missed this question earlier. I'm a great fan of rustins products.
Best sources are eBay and Amazon trading off prices between the two.
Hth
 
Myfordman":2twk6bgj said:
transatlantic":2twk6bgj said:
Myfordman":2twk6bgj said:
Try coloured varnish

Can you give an example of a good product?

Sorry I missed this question earlier. I'm a great fan of rustins products.
Best sources are eBay and Amazon trading off prices between the two.
Hth

Thanks.

I have been experimenting with the Ronseal Interior varnish and am very pleased with the results so far. I got a large piece of pine and sanded it down to 240 which I have lots of samples of dye, all of which are horribly blotchy. I also have an area which I applied shellac sanding sealer and then some dye. This is almost blotch free, but there is only a hint of the dye colour coming through, so more coats would be needed, perhaps I put on too much shellac and should have thinned it?

But the sample of Ronseal Interior varnish has come out perfect with just 2 coats. No messing around with sanding sealer.

http://www.ronseal.co.uk/home/interior- ... r-varnish/
 
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