Help needed to straighten stud wall

[RogerS]

In the building thread on TWH2 I mentioned the wall that the idiots managed to knock out of whack. Trying to ease it back bit by bit is going to take forever. So I am desperately seeking any ideas. Although it is about 1" out, I only need to win about 10mm so I can get the shower screen in. But it needs to stay in place and not put inward pressure onto the glass screen as that could shatter.

It needs to go in the direction of the arrow.


I was thinking about screwing an eye bolt into the stud frame and a batten on the opposite wall (right of photo and out of shot) then a metal cable and one of those fence strainer/tighteners ..not sure of the exact name. Gradually turn it

All thoughts welcome

 

[NazNomad]

Not sure what you're trying to do, but a 'turnbuckle' is the name of the item you're thinking of.

 

[RogerS]

Thanks, Naz

 

[Eric The Viking]

Can't see the image for some reason, Roger. The filename shows up though.

 

[MARK.B.]

You could try putting some sort of batten on both sides and use your car jack ( on its side) to slowly push a nice chunky cross piece against the stud side. should give you nice steady even pressure to get it back into place , the battens will spread the load but it would be great if the other wall was solid construction Brick or block , a extra set of hands will help too.

p.s cant see the pic so may be talking a pile of poo #-o

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If the stud is spaced in any way from the floor and/or the ceiling try to cut any nails fixing it in place before attempting to drift it. I watched a chippie I used to work with move a whole stud wall two feet one day without damage then replace the cove and skirting.

 

[NazNomad]

I watched a chippie I used to work with move a whole stud wall two feet one day.../quote]


I used to have a tape measure like that... Nightmare. :lol: :lol:

 

[Lons]

I moved the base of a stud wall almost 3" after the dozy kid I left to nail it to the floor had kicked it and not checked it for plumb, ( he didn't last long!). It was fixed at ceiling level but not sides and was faily easy to cut through the nails with a reciprocating saw and just knock the thing into place. It wasn't plasterboarded though so easy enough.

I'd do as suggested Roger, cut the fixings and lever into place, I doubt turnbuckles would be strong enough, you really need chain and a hand winch, better as said to push with a jack or even screw type axle stands or simply wedge between walls and use folding wedges to push it a little at a time. There's always a way.

You might have to fix afterwards from the sides at an angle if the wall is boarded, can't view the photo!

 

[MikeG.]

I've answered comprehensively at WH2, Roger. If you've access to the underside, then post-tensioning should solve all your problems.

 

[RogerS]

I'll have another go with the photo.



The wall stud is very firmly fixed with screws. One side is plastered and the other already tiled.

It's going to be a question of push and pull. Mike G's suggestion is eloquent but I don't have easy access to the underside.

 

[lurker]

Does it go up to the ceiling and fixed there.
Is it currently plumb vertically

 

[RogerS]

Does it go up to the ceiling and fixed there.
Is it currently plumb vertically

No.

That's the point. The bottom part is but not the top part where they've skewed it over.

 

[lurker]

Nibble the base away so you can see where the horizontal batten meets the floor and drive in wedges ???
Edit: maybe I misunderstand, are you saying the whole thing has a dog leg?

 

[RogerS]

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys, and my apologies if I didn't explain things very clearly.

Parcelfarce had a Sunday delivery and so I was able to try Plan A which seems to be working a treat. I've already won back 3mm.