hegner hold down

[sunnybob]

I've struggled to do anything with the scroll saw, but today have only just found out about a hold down foot.

this sounds and looks like the way I might actually make something with it.
but now I need to find out more.
I have seen it on hegners site for over £70, and that aint gonna happen.
So has anyone made their own, or found drawings for such?

 

[martinka]

Most Hegner users remove the hold down as they find it gets in the way, but if you want to make one I can let you have some measurements. Not that you need any really as it's such a basic item.

 

[NazNomad]

Somebody must have one, it's usually the first thing you throw away on a scroll saw.

 

[martinka]

Somebody must have one, it's usually the first thing you throw away on a scroll saw.

I've got one, I didn't throw it away.

 

[sunnybob]

Martin, does it fit the multicut? and do you want to sell it?

I've tried a couple times to cut a shape on the scroll saw and given up when the wood just keeps jumping up and down.
I'm using the 350 bandsaw to cut very small stuff when the hegner is just taking up bench space.
i suspect its like trainer wheels on a push bike, once you can ride you dont need them, but untill you can, those wheels are indispensable (but I'm not paying £75 to learn).

 

[martinka]

If yours is the Multicut 1, I think the mounting holes for the arm are different. I don't really want to sell mine as it's a selling point when I eventually sell the Hegner, but I am sure you could easily make one from plywood for yours. I think what you ought to do is find out why the wood is bouncing. Make sure the blade isn't upside down, (been there done that), is the wood flat, blade tension OK, enough pressure on the wood with your fingers, etc. If you are using blades with reverse teeth, try some without until you have more experience.

The wood often jumps for me when I take the pressure off as I am making a turn. That in turn makes me jump and so the wood jumps even more.

I don't know anyone who uses the hold down longer than 5 minutes before binning it, though no doubt some use it, and in fact I removed the Hegner one before ever switching it on. I'd recommend persevering without, or making one from plywood, because I am sure it won't be long before you remove it. If you still want some photos and/or measurements, I am happy to do them for you.

 

[AES]

I hope I'm not being too "obvious" sunnybob, but apart from making sure the blade is not inserted upside-down (when correctly installed you should feel the teeth as you run your finger UP the blade, even on a very fine blade), you also have to press downwards on the work piece (at the same time as not pressing down too hard - so that you can also manoeuvre the work piece around to allow the cutting of curves, etc.) That last part is not too easy when you first start off.

In fact that's why I still have the hold down foot for my Excalibur. I've given 2 complete beginners a go on my Excali and for the first few minutes they both seemed to have difficulty pressing down hard enough to stop the work piece jumping up off the table (particularly with thicker stock) whilst at the same time still being able to move the stock to cut curves/keep the cut straight.

But it is only a matter of practice, and after about half an hour, both of them managed fine without the foot.

But sorry sunnybob if the above is an insult to your intelligence, that was not my intention.

As someone above has already said, you should be able to figure something out to make up (don't forget to allow for the differing amounts of down pressure needed by different sizes of stock) without spending 70 quid - a price which frankly I find ridiculous for what amounts to a bent up piece of thick wire and a couple of threaded knobs (which is what my hold down looks like).

Once over that hurdle I'm sure you'll be able to dispense with it, just like almost everyone else.

HTH

AES

 

[sunnybob]

I've checked blade orientation (not easy on these blades is it?).
But I have a unique problem in that I have arthritic hands and dont have a lot of power in them so exerting downwards pressure quickly becomes painful for me. Thats why i use mainly power tools and can manage the bandsaw ok as its just sideways movements. i think I am going to need that hold down.

Martin, if you could either post here or pm me a couple of close up pics of the pressure pad and how it attaches then I can make my own from them. Thanks very much

 

[AES]

Hullo sunnybob. I didn't know about your problem, sorry about that. "Gute Besserung" as they say here.

Somewhat belatedly I had another thought - is it possible that you're using too fine a blade (i.e. a very fine blade, with many TPI)? That COULD be a cause, as the sawdust would tend to jam in the kerf, so tending to lift the work piece up off the table, especially on thicker stock and/or on tight corners.

Other than that, it does sound as if you need that hold down. Sorry I can't help with a Hegner item but I'm sure martinka will be along soon with some dimensions so that you can make something up.

Good luck.

AES

 

[martinka]

Photos here - http://bit.ly/2mf1dTV - with a (very) rough sketch with a couple of measurements. I'm in a bit of a rush as we are going out but if you need anything else, let me know.

 

[AES]

That foot looks a bit more complicated than I thought. But 70 quid? Blimey!

I had yet another belated thought sunnybob - (my Sunday kitchen duties are sometimes quite fruitful thinking sessions. See, I was thinking about you down there in Cyprus )!

Have you tried skip tooth blades? These are blades with all the teeth running in the same direction (no upward-facing teeth, known as reverse) but at about every 2nd or 3rd tooth position up the blade they miss one out. This leaves an extra-large gullet which helps with clearing the sawdust out of the kerf. Maybe worth a try if that's part of your not pushing downwards problem/helps to alleviate it.

(Kitchen duties finished for today - I hope - so no more belated "bright" ideas to come from me I don't think).

AES

 

[sunnybob]

Thanks for the pics, I have the general idea now. My saw is the older model than yours, it doesnt have an insert plate and the arm on mine isnt as complicated as yours, but the frame does have the two bolt holes in the right place.

Not sure about blade selection, I have a dozen different types but none are reverse or skip as far as I can see. i havent managed to get far enough along to work out the differences.

i'll give it another try this week.

 

[martinka]

That foot looks a bit more complicated than I thought. But 70 quid? Blimey!

The price includes the arm, and it's *still* well overpriced.