(Hegner) Blade clamps (pin-less)

[nev]

Evening all,

Well the Axminster pin-less blade clamps I fitted to my Ferm saw lasted about 10 'clamps' before one broke
Whilst I'm sure Axminster will replace it my thoughts have moved on to other blade clamps that may be available as spares that I could possibly adapt and fit to my saw.

Seeing as Hegner seem to be one of the most recommended saws, would I be correct in assuming that the clamps work?
I see that the clamps are only a few quid and the bracket that holds the bottom clamp is a tenner. The top clamp holder is a little pricier but I reckon I could knock something similar up in work for nothing.

The current clamps just fix with a single central allen bolt so cannot see any potential difficulties providing I keep the correct distance between the clamps.

Am I missing something? Have I overlooked anything? Any other make clamps that work that I could maybe consider? All thoughts and suggestions welcome.
Thanks in advance

Exploded diagram here

 

[martinka]

I don't see how you could use the Hegner clamps. They aren't fixed to the arms but are simply held in place by the tension of the arms. The bracket below the bottom clamp isn't there to hold the clamp in place. It is really only there to stop the clamp flying off somewhere when/if a blade breaks, often unsuccessfully.

 

[Lons]

I don't see how you could use the Hegner clamps. They aren't fixed to the arms but are simply held in place by the tension of the arms. The bracket below the bottom clamp isn't there to hold the clamp in place. It is really only there to stop the clamp flying off somewhere when/if a blade breaks, often unsuccessfully.

+1

 

[nev]

The idea is to replace the existing flat metal supports with new ones with a V in to contain the clamps, etc.

Excuse the world class drawings :shock:

Thinking about it Theres no real need for the top (green) or bottom clamp holders other than to play catch when the blade goes twang. I'm assuming the Hegner has an arm release and the top gubbins is to slacken /remove blade, whereas the Ferm has only the tension knob so would need winding down anyhow.

 

[Buffalo Chas]

Hi. Nev. I bought a set of quick change blade clamps for my Sheppach scrollsaw from NMA Agencies. The cost was around £18.50 I think. When the motor in my saw packed up (still trying to get this sorted out) I bought a Record Power SSV16 and simply transferred the clamps to the new saw. They are attached to the upper and lower arms in exactly the same way the blade holders are attached at present. Simply remove the two single screws which hold the current blade holders in place and then fit the new clamps. In order to fit the bottom clamp it will be necessary to remove the left side plate from the saw. I keep mine off now as the screw which actually pulls the jaws together to clamp the blade is on the left side of the clamp. I simply use a hex head screwdriver to release and tighten the jaws. I have found them to be great quality and really make multiple internal cuts very easy now. By the way, I could not find them on the NMA Agencies website, so you may have to phone them and ask for quick release clamps for the Sheppach scroll saw.

Hope this helps. I may not have explained the process very well but if you need any more info send me a pm and I'll be glad to help.

Charley

 

[gjhimages]

On my previous saw awfs16 I purchased the Olsen quick release blade adaptor.had to use a couple of different bolts from my collection but worked ok

 

[Clockie]

Hello, Nev,
I am in Gwauncaegurwen, Just after Ammanford, I have a Hegner if you want to come up and have a look and see if they will fit your saw, your are welcome to call. Just let me know.
Jestyn.

 

[martinka]

Nev, apologies for my original negativity, I reckon your idea just might work, but those clamps can really fly when a blade breaks, so I think you would need some way to contain them.

If you think your drawings are bad, you should see mine. A recent one looked like it was drawn by someone on LSD. Now if I had drawn it 40 years ago.... :shock:

 

[nev]

No worries Martin, I failed to provide all the information, so it were fair comment.

Thanks Clockie too, indeed not far away, I'm in Capel Hendre. I shall be in touch if I need a close up

 

[martinka]

Thinking about it Theres no real need for the top (green) or bottom clamp holders other than to play catch when the blade goes twang.

Nev, I just got my saw out to play and thought about what you said above. The top holder and the bottom spring do play another part. If the blade isn't perfectly vertical in the clamps, the top and bottom holders will stop the clamps twisting round and breaking the blade. The top holder isn't screwed down onto the clamp, it is backed off 1/4 or 1/2 a turn to allow the clamp to move. Or at least that's how it is meant to work according to Hegner, I actually keep mine tight because the tapping it can sometimes make is annoying.

 

[nev]

Just working on the MK1 clamp holder, and have a quick question.

Does the Hegner blade holder clamp the blade with just the pointy bit and the blade go no further than just below the bolt (which would be my guess) , or does the blade go past the bolt and is clamped with the whole clamp.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Claymore]

quick answer Nev.........Yes to the first bit

Brian

 

[sunnybob]

The top holder isn't screwed down onto the clamp, it is backed off 1/4 or 1/2 a turn to allow the clamp to move. Or at least that's how it is meant to work according to Hegner, I actually keep mine tight because the tapping it can sometimes make is annoying.[/quote]

The hegner top bracket is meant to be a little loose to stop the blade from being sideways stressed. Thats why the book tells you to back it off a bit. Its main reason for existance is to stop the top bracket flying off into your face if the blade does break under load.
the tension knob on the rear of the arm should be tight enough to stop any tapping sounds. If there is a noise, you have what on an engine would be known as valve bounce and that will shorten blade life.

 

[nev]

(hammer) No precision tools were harmed, used, or even looked at during the construction of the following

I like to get on and make do with what I have to hand and don't have the patience to shop for something once I've started playing, so with a lump of that acrylic plastic stuff similar to what chopping boards are made from, a scrap of 1-2mm sheet steel and a steel packing strap for spring steel...
A drill, a file, a hammer and a chisel and a bandsaw for cutting the plastic and we're off...


Well the MK1 worked, sort of. But inserting and removing the clamps/ blade was too much of a pfaff.

But the MK2 does work! so far anyway, but only done a few test cuts.

I think the MK3 will be the same but with thicker 'bases' with a deeper V to hold the clamps more upright, and a couple of star knobs or knurled bolt quick release thingies for the top clamp and holder and we should be good to go.

 

[NazNomad]

I just saw these ... http://parts.sears.com/partsdirect/part ... 6/0009/572 ... from Sears.

I think they ft the Dremel 1680

 

[martinka]

I just saw these ... http://parts.sears.com/partsdirect/part ... 6/0009/572 ... from Sears.

I think they ft the Dremel 1680

I have vague recollections of someone on another forum cutting the ends off the arms of a Hegner so he could use different blade clamps. I wonder if it was these he used. They look pretty good.

edit: i found the post, unfortunately no pics - http://www.stevedgood.com/community/ind ... pic=6303.0

 

[Buffalo Chas]

That is identical to the top clamp I got from the Sheppach distributors (NMA Agencies I think). They sell the top and bottom clamps as a set for about £18.50 + p & p. They fit both my Sheppach and Record Power SS16V, so presumably they will fit any generic saw. I have found them to be excellent.

Charley

 

[nev]

Sheppach SD1600V Blade holders from NMA agencies, can't find the receipt but about 6 quid each + 3.50 P&P +VAT.

The base of the clamps where they sit on the arms have ridges (I assume the Sheppach arms are narrower) but that doesn't stop them from fitting, and I'll probably flatten them at a later date.
These also don't have the winged thumb-bolts but thats simple enough to remedy.
They do kink the top of the blade as it clamps between two screws and 3 cuts from the end of the mini pattern the blade broke at the clamp, but there was enough adjustment in the arm to simply reclamp further down.
On the plus side releasing and clamping the blade is much much quicker and easier than the Hegner clamps. So I think I'll be sticking with these.

So a big thanks to Buffalo Chas and Naz for pointing them out. (BTW couldn't locate the sears/Dremel ones in the UK).

 

[Buffalo Chas]

Glad to be of help Nev. The set NMA sent me did have the thumb screw on the top clamp but then again they did charge me £18.80 + VAT + p & p. But as you say they work a treat so in my humble opinion worth every penny.

Charley

 

[Claymore]

They look good chunky clamps

Brian