Hardwood worktops - endcaps?

[dlowry_uk]

Hi,
When sourcing a hardwood worktop, I came across a supplier recommending fitting of "endcaps" on exposed edges to cover the endgrain, and on any edge adjacent to an Aga-style range to reduce the chance of splitting due to excessive heat.

Anyone have experience of this? They don't mention how it should be fitted, but I assume it needs to allow expansion/contraction across the width like a breadboard end, otherwise it'll cause splitting rather than prevent it.

Thanks
Drew

 

[woodbloke]

There was a very interesting discussion a while ago here:
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... ht=#153955
which is worth a perusal on this topic. Hope this helps - Rob

 

[dlowry_uk]

Oops! Quite a lively discussion in that thread. Think I'll quietly drop this one - seems to get people all stirred up :shock:

 

[DomValente]

Hi Drew,

Lively or not, fit the "endcaps" or your timber will split
, make sure you leave 15-20mm between the endcap and the Aga.
I have fitted these in several kitchens.
Tenon the end of the worktop and mortise the endcap, make sure the tenon is slightly shorter, 1/2 inch each side, than the mortice, then, my preference is to peg the endcap with contrasting wood, e.g. Walnut peg on Oak.
No doubt someone will disagree, but this works, two kitchens done ten years ago are still looking good.

Good luck

Dom

 

[wrightclan]

Drew,

DomValente's advice is good. The lively discussion was more to do with what to name them (one poster in particular quite derisory towards those who used a particular name), rather than how to fit them, etc.

That said, at first I got the impression from your post, that the supplier was suggesting a proprietary product. Whereas, DomValente is describing a traditional way of using a wood cleat/breadboard end to keep worktops/tabletops, etc. flat. Either way, you need to allow for the worktop to move across the grain in relation to the "endcap." If done properly, as DomValente describes, you will not get a gap opening between the "endcap" and the worktop. You will however get a discrepancy between the ends of the cap and the edges of the worktop. This can never be totally avoided due to the nature of wood, but there are ways to minimise that discrepancy and/or ways to make a feature of it.

Brad

 

[Anonymous]

I put worktop's (solid laminated 40 mm oak) into my latest kitchen "investement". We have a 900 mm oven in betwen, the end grain is 15 mm from the cast iron pan support's including a wock burner at one side Its been in 5 or 6 months and hasnt split or even shown signs of checking etc. Its not warped either, neither has there been any problems with the worktop shrinking across the grain where they meet at 90 degrees in the corner. I did however let them settle in situ for about 6 weeks before I joined them and fitted them up. Admittedly an aga would give out heat more if its doing hot water supply as well. But I honestly wonder if its really necessary.
If you did fit one on though, perhaps do a loose sliding dovetail and stop it at the front 2 inches or so of the worktop and screw and plug through at that point (just one fixing)? The worktop cah freely move across the grain in the dovetail and the cap wont pop off, the end nearest the wall could be obscured under an upstand or siminlar type arrangement??

Cheers Jonathan

 

[wrightclan]

If you did fit one on though, perhaps do a loose sliding dovetail and stop it at the front 2 inches or so of the worktop and screw and plug through at that point (just one fixing)? The worktop cah freely move across the grain in the dovetail and the cap wont pop off, the end nearest the wall could be obscured under an upstand or siminlar type arrangement??

Cheers Jonathan

That's the kind of thing I was meaning by minimising the discrepancy (or in this case hiding it at the back of the worktop.) In a tabletop, you would fix it at the centre, allowing equal movement at both ends. With a worktop or dresser (with a back to a wall) you can fix it at the front, allowing all the movement to be hidden at the back.

Brad

 

[dlowry_uk]

wrightclan wrote:

That said, at first I got the impression from your post, that the supplier was suggesting a proprietary product.

Indeed, they're available as accessories from some suppliers, eg http://www.barncrest.co.uk/images/large/protective-end-cap-3.jpg
but I think they're just blanks to be fitted by one of the methods described in the thread. First time doing one of these, and its in my house so I'll have to live with it if it goes wrong.

The consensus seems to be in favour of fitting. I like the idea of fixing at the front, and letting the upstand cover the expansion gap.

The worktop will butt up against a wall at each end, one of which is a chimneybreast around a woodburner which gets a bit warm (not hot), hence the concern. Since the ends won't actually be visible, how about a fixed screw at the front, and a few slotted screws to allow movement while keeping the joint tight, rather than a sliding dovetail (not sure my competence extends to that!). A stopped mortise in both endcap and worktop and a couple of "floating" loose tenons between the screw positions to maintain alignment, or maybe even a few loose biscuits?

Sorry, just doing a bit of a brain dump here...

Drew