hand plane preferences

[gsaps]

Thanks for the warm welcome.
I thought i'd start the barrage of questions i'll have by asking what members opinions would be: if you could have only three hand planes, which would they be?
I'm hoping to get a couple, as my powertool needs have been met and i now realise that some hand tools could make a big difference. i've got a stanley 4 1/2 that although new, needs some serious prep work, which leads to the next question, could you suggest a replacement blad that would make a difference to the results.
I'll save the cabinet scraper questions for later.
as soon as i figure out how to get pics onto the posts, i'll get a few of the pieces i've made to get some feedback (hopefully the pics are too blurry to spot the mistakes... oops! ... i mean special features)
thanks for any reponses
grant

 

[Adam]

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3383

You need to see above, for the most popular. Hopefully, averaged over the number of people who have contributed, it fairly accurately describes the most used planes.

For me, most used is a #7, then a #60.5 then.... well, why would I need a third plane? When those two do pretty much everything? Jointing, smoothing, all general planing with a #7, end grain, edges, with a block plane.

OK, the spokeshaves get some use, as does a shoulder plane and bullnose on occasions but those top two hardly leave the surface of my bench.

Adam

 

[whybob71]

For me
1) 5
2) 60 1/2
3) medium shoulder

For the replacement blade I can only recommend you the Hock blades, since I only have them.

 

[bugbear]

could you suggest a replacement blade that would make a difference to the results.

Yeah - assuming you order from APTC occaisionally this is the cheapest (AFAIK) after market blade available, and it's very good.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Japa ... -22303.htm

I have the 2" version from a while back. The actual blade supplied has alternated between "smoothcut" and "samurai" brand over the years, but there seems (on reports) to be little difference between the 2 brands.

To do "the plane thing" you'll also need (looks over shoulder...) sharpening equipment. A plane with a blunt blade is at best a useful doorstop.

BugBear

 

[Paul Chapman]

if you could have only three hand planes, which would they be?

#7
#4.5
Low-angle block plane

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

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[Alf]

For me, most used is a #7, then a #60.5 then.... well, why would I need a third plane? When those two do pretty much everything?

Don't mind him - he never makes a joint; it's all Miller Dowels... :wink: Just kidding, Adam.

Three planes; power tool needs all met. I deduce we're looking at planes that are going to compliment powered woodworking, in which case:

1. #5 1/2 or Veritas low angle jack, used as a large smoother/short jointer.
2. Low angle block plane - get a good one 'cos either you'll end up using it a good deal or else you'll sell it and a better quality one will lose less value.
3. Either something like a medium shoulder plane or rebate block; something that can plane right up to the edge. Or a side rebate plane/pair. Gasps from the crowd, 'cos they are often viewed as a bit specialist, but tweaking the fit of joints a thou at a time is something hand tools do really well and power tools don't.

All of the above subject to you knowing how to sharpen. If not, get a huge jointer 'cos it'll make a better doorstop all round. :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Veritas LA Smoother
Veritas LA Block
Stanley 92 or 93 or a Lie-Nielson Rabbet Block

 

[Philly]

Grant
#7 or #8 Jointer plane
#4 or #4.5 Smoother
L-N 140 skew rabbet block plane.

Not much you can't do with those three. 'Course, you'd have to put me up against the wall to make me live with just three...... :lol:
Hope rthis helps
Philly

 

[Scott]

Get a 5 1/2 and a 60 1/2. By the time you've sussed tuning, sharpening and using them you'll already have made yourself a list of other planes you want (and may not even need!) :wink:

 

[woodbloke]

Norris A1 panel
Record Calvert-Stevens (much fettled) LN blade assembly
LN block
.....but in the absence of a good Norris, I would go for a No 7 Record, a No4 Record and the LN block. I've had the both types of Record block and they don't come anywhere close to a LN one. If you want to push the boat out a fraction more, then the Clifton derivatives are a sound bet - Rob

 

[Scrums]

Oh dear, now I'm going to alienate all the tool purists.......never mind, that's what this free exchange of views and ideas is about - isn't it ?

I've got a big long jointer for erm......jointing, I've got another plane about 10" long for getting stuff narrower more quickly and a block plane which for end grain cleaning up and quick bevels is great because of it's shallower angle.

The bigger ones are Stanley and the baby is a Record.

I never use a stone - just run them against the 120g on the 4" belt sander until there's a little burr then gently take the burr off.

To me, woodworking and furniture making is about the end product, rather than what make and particular type your tools are.

You should take a look at my chisels.....no, maybe you shouldn't...... but they do have a good edge and do what it says on the tin!

Anyone gonna spring to my defence ?

Chris.

 

[woodbloke]

Scrums wrote:

I never use a stone - just run them against the 120g on the 4" belt sander until there's a little burr then gently take the burr off.

.....oh no, please, not another sharpening thread...not for a bit, anyway - Rob

 

[Philly]

Chris
I agree with you-woodwork is about the end result.
Mind you-there are also woodies who just love it for the tools! :tool:
If it works for you, rejoice
Cheers
Philly

 

[Alf]

Anyone gonna spring to my defence ?

Tricky to do so, given the lack of a frame of reference. I could convincingly argue I get a good enough result with an axe sharpened on the granite threshold of my workshop and it'd be true - if I was splitting firewood. See what I mean? Half the disagreements on the forum these days seem to be less about people disagreeing about methods and rather more about people expecting different results from what is superficially the same task.

Rob, are you advoating modern Record planes there? It occurs to me it may help the OP to clarify.

Cheers, Alf

 

[woodbloke]

Alf - thanks for picking me up on that one . No, an older plane where the casting has settled down for many years is far more desirable than a new one - Rob

 

[tulsk]

Hi Grant,
FWIW, I treat myself to a LN 102 block plane after reading other users comments on this site. It's never far away from me in the workshop and fitting on site as it's so useful and has such a good "feel". Therefor this plane would probably be one of the first I would grab if my workshop was on fire. Cheers John

 

[Waka]

Chris
I agree with you-woodwork is about the end result.
Mind you-there are also woodies who just love it for the tools! :tool:
If it works for you, rejoice
Cheers
Philly

Yer I know a few of them :roll: :roll:

 

[Anonymous]

Tis an impossible task to recommend 3 planes when one doesn't know what the intended end product is.

Picture what you want to make and then purchase the 3(or more) planes you need to build it.
Restrictions lead to compromise in quality of work.


As a cabinetmaker/restorer, if I was restricted to 3 I would consider a change of career!

One of the best purchases I ever made was a Stanley No 10, if I could have only one Bench Plane it would be that one.

 

[Scrit]

If you could have only three hand planes, which would they be?

Assuming a machine to joint and that the tools would then be used primarily for fitting and adjustment, I'd go for:

#5-1/2 jack (older plane with new thick blade OR new Clifton)
Veritas low angle block plane (with the adjustable mouth)
#4 smoother (age/make as per #5-1/2)

This is what I carry on the van for installations, so maybe a bit biased......

If I were carrying the tools round a lot I might opt for a #3 instead of the #4 and a #5 instead of the #5-1/2. Starting from scratch again I'd also consider the Veritas bevel-up smoother and their #5-1/4W jack as viable alternatives to the older, more traditional tools

Scrit