gunstock joint
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A
Anonymous
Guest
All depends on the design details. What will you do with the panels below and the glass above?
One way to make it a lot easier is to plant on glazing beads rather than moulding/rebating the glazed part of the stiles/rails/glazing bars.
cheers
Jacob
One way to make it a lot easier is to plant on glazing beads rather than moulding/rebating the glazed part of the stiles/rails/glazing bars.
cheers
Jacob
Chris Knight
Established Member
Mark,
Somehow the term Gunstock joint has evaded me during my woodworking education
Do you mean something like the on referred to on this page? http://www.finefurnituremaker.com/news/index.php?cat=14
Somehow the term Gunstock joint has evaded me during my woodworking education
Do you mean something like the on referred to on this page? http://www.finefurnituremaker.com/news/index.php?cat=14
A
Anonymous
Guest
What I call a gunstock stile is a reduced door stile to accomodate an area of glass in the upper panel wider than the lower panel - so it looks vaguely like a gunstock in shape. Sometimes called a sash door - common on "french" doors and traditional conservatories etc. It means that the shoulders on the rail tenons also have to taper to make up the difference
A difficult joint!
cheers
Jacob
A difficult joint!
cheers
Jacob
woodbloke
Established Member
Mr G, on this very rare occasion :wink: is correct as the following pics show, taken from 'Designs for Wood' by Alonzo WP Kettless, one of my lecturers at Shoreditch
.....and furthermore, he's correct again 'cos it is a difficult joint to make - Rob
.....and furthermore, he's correct again 'cos it is a difficult joint to make - Rob
A
Anonymous
Guest
The biggest prob is getting in to the corner where the narrow part meets the taper on the stile. Whatever tooling, hand or machine, you are going to have to finish off by hand with sharp chisels and carve/pare your way in.
One of the rare occasions where a router could be the best tool as the small radius lets you close up to the angle.
The next prob is the taper on the rail - this is best machined with a margin for error and then fitted by finishing with a shoulder plane. So the tenons have to be an easy push fit to enable you to do a series of trial fits.
You machine ALL the mortices before you do the reduced stile, whilst its all still in the square, unless you are doing them by hand.
And of course you need immaculate marking out and rod - all done with 2H pencil.
The rebate/moulding on the narrow part MUST be to the same depth or you will need to make slightly different angled tapers front and back - not impossible, just twice as difficult! Or you can make it a lot easier by not moulding/rebating at all, and planting on a bead to make a glazing rebate afterwards.
cheers
Jacob
One of the rare occasions where a router could be the best tool as the small radius lets you close up to the angle.
The next prob is the taper on the rail - this is best machined with a margin for error and then fitted by finishing with a shoulder plane. So the tenons have to be an easy push fit to enable you to do a series of trial fits.
You machine ALL the mortices before you do the reduced stile, whilst its all still in the square, unless you are doing them by hand.
And of course you need immaculate marking out and rod - all done with 2H pencil.
The rebate/moulding on the narrow part MUST be to the same depth or you will need to make slightly different angled tapers front and back - not impossible, just twice as difficult! Or you can make it a lot easier by not moulding/rebating at all, and planting on a bead to make a glazing rebate afterwards.
cheers
Jacob
Alf
Established Member
Mr_Grimsdale":2rcravow said:
Cheers, Alf :wink:
Hi all,
Thanks for the help. I think I will do the glazing rebate post assembly as suggested by Jacob. Are there any disadvanages to this over rebating the components before assembly and offsetting shoulder on the tennon? I had been wondering if I was missing something on the machining of the moulding. Wasn't sure if they were finished off by hand into the angle or not. The lower half of the door will be T & G. It's not a traditional pattern I know and the gunstock isn't really required but I thought it was a good opportunity to have a go at one of these joints.
Thanks again. I'll take some pictures of my progress.
Mark
Thanks for the help. I think I will do the glazing rebate post assembly as suggested by Jacob. Are there any disadvanages to this over rebating the components before assembly and offsetting shoulder on the tennon? I had been wondering if I was missing something on the machining of the moulding. Wasn't sure if they were finished off by hand into the angle or not. The lower half of the door will be T & G. It's not a traditional pattern I know and the gunstock isn't really required but I thought it was a good opportunity to have a go at one of these joints.
Thanks again. I'll take some pictures of my progress.
Mark
Modernist
Established Member
Gunstock doors are not easy but worth the effort, especially if you self mould them. I know it's more work but I dont think they look so good with planted mouldings and I certainly would not rout the mouldings after assembly.
I made mine self moulded both sides and then bandsawed the incline, finishing with a paring chisel. The mouldings are mitred at 45Deg with a guide block and saw/paring chisel. this of course means the panels have to be built in on assembly.
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I made mine self moulded both sides and then bandsawed the incline, finishing with a paring chisel. The mouldings are mitred at 45Deg with a guide block and saw/paring chisel. this of course means the panels have to be built in on assembly.
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Chris Knight
Established Member
Modernist,
That is a very nice looking job! Was the stained glass bespoke?
That is a very nice looking job! Was the stained glass bespoke?
Paul Chapman
Established Member
Lovely work, Modernist.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Modernist
Established Member
thanks both
The stained glass was based on a Czeck Art Nouveau design I found and had the colours modified and made by a local artist in the Midlands.
One problem I had forgotton is that the lower corner of the "gunstock" cannot be pared easily as the angle of the self moulding protrudes accross the oblique line of the shoulder. More difficult paring across or against the grain is the only option.
The shoulders themselves are trimmed with a shoulder plane however it is important to avoid the trap of trimming for ever like trying to level the leg ends of a stool and getting an ever lower stool!
As you can probably see the door was in Columbian pine which is not the easiest timber to pare.
The stained glass was based on a Czeck Art Nouveau design I found and had the colours modified and made by a local artist in the Midlands.
One problem I had forgotton is that the lower corner of the "gunstock" cannot be pared easily as the angle of the self moulding protrudes accross the oblique line of the shoulder. More difficult paring across or against the grain is the only option.
The shoulders themselves are trimmed with a shoulder plane however it is important to avoid the trap of trimming for ever like trying to level the leg ends of a stool and getting an ever lower stool!
As you can probably see the door was in Columbian pine which is not the easiest timber to pare.
