Grinder

[Bigbud78]

Just wondering if anyone has some up to date advice on grinders, I picked up a Lidl grinder from another forum member but realised the wheels are rather thin. I'm new to bench grinders and turning tools but I have read a lot of the safety advice in some of the older threads. I'm planning on making some of the DIY Jigs to try.

Currently in the running are

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... ne-grinder @ £55 for 200W

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Record-Power-RP ... ch+grinder @ £70 for 370W

Or is the 200mm Record really worth the extra £30 ? And will the White wheels they come with good enough ?

Thanks

Jim

 

[Brianp]

I have the RP grinder you mention, and find it quite good with the original white wheel. It is quite soft though, and inclined to get grooves in it fairly easily - though that could be just my use of it. Certainly feels like quality, if that helps. As to the 200mm wheel, many will say that the larger wheel gives a "straighter" grind (less hollow, given the larger curve), but as a hobbyist I felt the premium (including the cost of replacement wheels in the future) cost over the 150mm wasn't necessary for me at this stage.

 

[Castanea]

I have the Record 150 too and would agree with Brian - generally good but the white wheel does seem quite soft. I've not managed to get it running absolutely true. Close but not quite spot on - I suspect it's out by about a fifth of a mill. But I paid £60 for it new and the 40mm width of the white wheel is handy so it seems a good tool for the price.

 

[Bigbud78]

Thanks for the reply's

Its something I need to get sorted asap as all the chiesels I have are blunt so no turning until there sharp, I have found this is good in one respect thou as Ive had time to read my foundation turning book lol

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

to true your white wheels get one of those £8 diamond T-dressers. They look a bit like a wet razor. Little diamond scouring surface on the end of a handle. Simply square it on to the wheel while resting dead flat on the platform rest and gently abrade the wheel. It will eat it pretty dam quick so go easy. Wear goggles too, it sends up granular sprint off the wheel that you really don't want in your eyes (cf sand from a beach).

They're bullet proof and will last a lifetime.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Our club has four grinders. All 6".

 

[Bigbud78]

Just looking at Jigs as well, might try knocking one of these up http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Woodlathe-gou ... 20fb8c9182

 

[wcndave]

Just my pennies worth...

The grinders are good for shaping, however I find them too fast (therefore hot) and too aggressive for sharpening.

So my process is:

Grinder for shaping all tools
Slow wet wheel (like tormek, but cheaper) for sharpening turning tools
waterstones / scary sharp / worksharp for sharpening chisels and planes.

I must admit i don't know many people that use grinder for sharpening.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I have to beg to differ specifically for woodturning. (Accepted many approaches for cabinet making/hand tools) Due to the use of HSS, a great many turners, if not the majority use grinders for shaping and sharpening. There are clever, specialist solutions too, like the Sorby Pro edge but for someone getting started, you wont go far wrong with a regular bench grinder. Having a diamond credit card file in your smock pocket doesn't go amiss for the odd tickle between grinds for a finishing cut too.

 

[wcndave]

Just said I didn't know any, sure there are lots ;-)

I found I kept bluing the edges of my tools when I used a grinder, and the tormek jigs really helped me, as a beginner, to get repeatable sharpening edges.

However I remember Alwin? at Axminster just using a grinder, and have seen it many times on Youtube.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Drawing the temper of the steel is most definitely a no-no and should be avoided at all costs. There are a couple of tips to avoiding it:

1/ a very light touch....don't really press the tool into the wheel
2/ keep the tool moving constantly so it doesn't rest in one spot
3/ keep a pot of cold water next to the grinder and plunge as necessary (there is a school of thought that this introduces micro cracks into HSS but I know turners do it all the time and don't complain)
4/ keep the wheel well dressed as once it glazes, the friction generated is much higher. Doesn't need much, just a tickle with the t bar every now and then

The jigs (like the SVD-185 by Tormek) are extremely useful and not just for beginners. The elliptical grinding jig is possibly the most useful as bowl gouges are about the most difficult grind to learn freehand. SVD-185 is Tormek's elliptical grinding jig.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

you can also buy cooler wheels by the way ie non white which are more expensive. Norton do a range.

 

[wcndave]

Yes, I have the SVD-185, I thought it didn't work as well on grinder, or fit on to the standard mounting or something. The other reason I mention that multiple systems may be in order, is that the OP talked about chisels, which as you said above, are more often not done on a grinder.

 

[chipmunk]

Just a thought but you can also buy a slow speed grinder - IMHO best of both worlds. Fast shaping and good sharpening without too much heat.

A Rolls Royce of a Creusen (http://www.axminster.co.uk/creusen-hp7500ts-powerline-grinder-slow-speed) if you can afford it (still cheaper than a Tormek by some margin) but buy it from your local Brimarc stockist because it'll be cheaper than Axi. I have one and it's very good.

Or buy one of Axi's own (http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-series-at8srg2-slow-running-grinder) and fit good white, blue or pink wheels to it.

In either case I'd suggest that you need to budget to change the rests for something better even on the Creusen.

Here are mine - a bit over the top probably but it works for me and cost significantly less than commercial versions...

HTH
Jon

 

[Dalboy]

I have to beg to differ specifically for woodturning. (Accepted many approaches for cabinet making/hand tools) Due to the use of HSS, a great many turners, if not the majority use grinders for shaping and sharpening. There are clever, specialist solutions too, like the Sorby Pro edge but for someone getting started, you wont go far wrong with a regular bench grinder. Having a diamond credit card file in your smock pocket doesn't go amiss for the odd tickle between grinds for a finishing cut too.

+1 for that, I also have the credit card diamond file which I use on my skew and any hollowing bits

 

[Bigbud78]

Ordered the 6" record and a dressing bar, going to set up a timber jig then if it works I'll fab a steel one.

Grinds do really seem to be an issue for people, I've bought a few gouges and got a few with the lathe and not one of them has a good grind on it. No doubt it'll take a while to get the technique down but I know what I'm aiming for.

Trying to learn the type of grind thou is proving problematic with all the names of the different grinds and different tools :lol: No wonder sharpening puts so many people off turning.

 

[BearTricks]

I bought the £35 titan grinder from Screwfix after a lot of research. There are a lot of good turners who sharpen on cheap grinders, and after fitting a white wheel from Abtec and knocking up a botched version of Keith Rowley's timber jig I really can't see how my tools could get much sharper. They rarely get hot enough to need quenching unless I'm spending a lot of time regrinding a bevel.

The Titan grinder is 8" and has a more powerful motor than most at the same price point.