Glue up garden table top?

[Burg84]

Hello, brand new to ukworkshop and this is my first post.
Forgive me if this subject has been covered but I can't find a definite answer.
I'm building some farmhouse style garden tables soon out of pressure treated pine, is it safe to glue up the table tops? Or is it best to leave drainage gaps?
I'll be using waterproof glue such as titebondIII. The tops will have breadboard ends and have room to expand/contract but will the glue hold under the strain of the British weather?

 

[cusimar9]

I can't comment on the glue but you may want to consider designing in a frame beneath the table that will give a mechanical 'brace' to the top boards. Two cross members that span the depth would give some extra support.

 

[custard]

Hello, brand new to ukworkshop and this is my first post.
Forgive me if this subject has been covered but I can't find a definite answer.
I'm building some farmhouse style garden tables soon out of pressure treated pine, is it safe to glue up the table tops? Or is it best to leave drainage gaps?
I'll be using waterproof glue such as titebondIII. The tops will have breadboard ends and have room to expand/contract but will the glue hold under the strain of the British weather?

The problem with a solid table top outside is that no matter how hard you try to make it "flat" you're unlikely to succeed, so the rain will puddle and stand on any small depression. Titebond III is up to the task (although you might find the extra "open" time of Cascamite an advantage) but the bigger risk is with the pine. My vote is go with drainage slots!

 

[Burg84]

Yeh suppose I'm safer leaving the gaps, I think it would look nicer glued up. I just hoped for someone to come back and say "it shouldn't be a problem as long as you......" Or "I've done it, never had a problem" lol
I made one last year and left gaps. I used 9x2 planks for the top with breadboard ends. The boards have cupped very slightly but I'm wondering if glued up and alternate the growth rings would that stop the cupping?
I'll look into that cascamite never heard of it.
Cheers for the replies! Thought I might've been left hanging being a newbie

 

[Sgian Dubh]

I made one last year and left gaps. I used 9x2 planks for the top with breadboard ends. The boards have cupped very slightly but I'm wondering if glued up and alternate the growth rings would that stop the cupping?

No, that won't work. Wide glued up panels outdoors are generally a poor choice, whether or not you alternate the growth rings. Water will puddle, sun will beat it up, it will cup, and the joints a re very likely to fail, especially if the table is left out in all weathers: not even paint or varnish will save it. Gaps between boards is really the most practical option, as in the example below.

You can also draw bore joints like the mortice and tenon to physically lock them together, as well as using a waterproof glue, such as a polyurethane type, see second image. In the lower image you can see pegs at the rail to leg joint. There are also draw bored pegs inserted into the corner joints of the table top frame, but they're inserted from the bottom face without coming through to the top face: this reduces places where water could get in from above which would lead to faster deterioration of the joint. Slainte.

 

[Burg84]

I'll go with the gaps then.
Cheers! Love a good draw bore joint

 

[Benchwayze]

Friend of mine wanted a picnic table. He wanted a solid glued-up top!
His choice, but three times now I have had to let in lengths of timber, to deal with socking great splits! And that is in cedarwood. So I think next time he will have pressure-treated laths, with the gaps.

 

[Jacob]

Gaps are a must. Glue no use - all joints need to be mechanical (nuts and bolts simplest). Have a look at pub garden tables. A good design revolves around avoiding water traps of any sort.