Glass doors questions

[Woodmonkey]

I have a job coming up to build an alcove cupboard with glass doors (well, wooden frames with glass panels).
What thickness of glass is suitable for this application?
How would you fix the glass in place? (I was thinking of using the normal shaker style method but substituting the mdf panel for glass. The only problem I see with this is it would be difficult to replace the glass if it broke)
TIA.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Instead of having the panel in a groove you can make the door to have a rebate on the inside, then secure the glass with beading and panel pins. Easy to remove and replace when the inevitable happens.

 

[RobinBHM]

Ive always used glass instead of mdf. 4mm toughened glass is fine. Put a thin bead of silicone in groove so you dont get rattly glass.

Certainly a rebated frame with beading is an ideal solution, but not that easy if the rest of the doors simply have their tenon in the groove

 

[Woodmonkey]

Thanks guys, Robin I did think about using toughened glass to reduce the chances of it ever having to be replaced. I wonder if 6mm would be too heavy? Just means the router set up can remain the same for all the doors whether mdf or glass...

 

[dzj]

Yes, go with a rebate, just make sure you use proper length tenons, not the stubbed variety.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I think you'll find a glazier would recommend 6mm. Whatever, glass is heavy - make sure the sides are strong enough to take the size of screws and hinges needed.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi - I'd also recommend toughened esp. if any of the glass is at a reasonably low level (for safety as much as toughness). You haven't said how big these glazed areas are - I'd take advice from a glazier as to thickness - 4mm should be OK for even reasonably large areas (certainly is for my DG windows 4mm/20mm/4mm). If these are hinged doors, I'd always attempt the "heel and toe" trick (using plastic shims in the rebate) when glazing (applying similar principles to bracing a door) to minismise the risk of your door going trapezoidal over time.
Cheers, W2S

e.g. http://www.malberntradewindows.co.uk/toeandheel.html

 

[doctor Bob]

There are rules and regulations on what type of glass has to be fitted depending on panel size and height of the floor, doesn't matter if it's a clients house or your own, you are supposed to conform to the rules.
Basically, reasonable size, low level requires toughened.

 

[tomatwark]

4mm toughened will probably be cheaper than 6mm non toughened anyway.

I would always fit toughened glass and if you are worried about seeing the safety mark ask the supplier to put a furniture mark on it instead of the circle that is used on windows and doors.

This is normally on the edge of the glass in a straight line.

http://uk.saint-gobain-glass.com/trade- ... protection

Half way down this page is a table giving you the details of what is required for furniture.

 

[RobinBHM]

to comply it will need to be toughened or laminated.

toughened is cheaper but small pieces can become a bit buckled when toughened

6mm is fine the extra cost could be worth it if it saves on set up cost, however 6mm glass is heavy 15kg / sq metre

fix the glass with silicone so it becomes structural and stops the door dropping

 

[custard]

Often the screws supplied with butt hinges are the minimum size, and the hinge will comfortably take the next size bigger screw (although sometimes you have to open up the countersink a fraction - easy enough with brass hinges), I suspect this is by design so if you ever need to relocate a screw a fraction you can up a screw size to still make it all secure.

If the door is heavier than normal you might want to think about going straight to that larger size hinge screw.

 

[Woodmonkey]

Thanks all, some useful info there.