general question about cabinet materials

[dmon1234]

Hi all,

My first post. Please forgive the ignorance! I am a beginner/intermediate woodworker. I have built several cabinets (TV lift for my bedroom, a stand for my mini lathe and a cabinet for dust extraction and support for my cheap tablesaw) and 4 workbenches (2x4 frames screwed together with 3/4 chipboard and an old door for the bench top). In as much as they work great for their purpose I think that I am overdoing it in the materials. 3/4 ply or MDF and 2x4 for the lathe stand. The items end up very sturdy and weigh a ton!

I am now looking to build a cabinet to replace the metal frame and legs which my router table (axminster with a lift) sits on. Even with the vacuum hose connected to the fence, I get a lot of chips/dust on the floor. Since the table is attached to the metal frame by only four screws from underneath, I figured that I could build a cabinet with a closed compartment with a V shape inside connecting to chip extractor (same design as my tablesaw cabinet). I have no problem designing the thing (dimensions etc) but I would love some advice on which materials to use. In general, when one builds a cabinet, how do you chose the thickness of the sides and the frame. Where does the strength come from? The actual panels which make up the sides or the frame itself? I was thinking of using 2x1 for the frame, 1/2 plywood for the sides and adding a 1/2 divider to close the router in about half way down the frame. I would then make a 100mm hole on the side and 2 pieces of wood at 45 degrees to guide the dust out. The remaining space at the bottom would be used to make a couple of drawers for router bits and bobs (on bottom runners). I would like to add some castor wheels to the bottom to move the cabinet around. For added strength I was going to use dados on the side panels to support the shelf (which is not weight bearing at all). Basically, what is the MINIMUM material size which would provide the strength and support for the router table?

I have read quite a few books on cabinet construction but most deal with design, stiles and rails, joinery and hardware. Did not find any actual discussion on material choice for purpose.

I would appreciate any comments and/or references to reading material.

Thanks,
D

 

[Jacob]

Perhaps best answered by actually making an effort and looking at stuff to see how it's made, for better or worse!

 

[wcndave]

A cabinet can be made with only sheet goods and no frame at all.

similar to kitchen cabinets, you can simple put the sides / bottom in a u shape, braces at the back top and bottom holding in the back panel set into grooves, and then nailer strips at top to hold the actual top which you add on last.

for a workbench for planing etc this would probably not be stiff enough, and you'd want a frame with joints. For a "cabinet" which is what you state, it would be fine.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

+1 to the above. But perhaps the missing detail you're looking for is the thickness. If you're building a cabinet only and you're using sheet goods then its pretty much the standard to use 3/4 inch (nominally 18 or 19mm in the sheds etc). MDF is OK but sort of rubbish at the same time if you know what I mean. Moisture resistant MDF (MRMDF) is a better grade and medite, a brand of the latter is well thought of on this forum by the pro's. Ply is better quality in the main as its laminated and much stiffer than MDF. The more expensive ply's like birch have more (thinner) laminates per 3/4" than the cheaper stuff and less voids inside between the layers. So if its a cabinet and structural like sides then 3/4" is the right choice.

If the thing needs to not vibrate or take a lot of punishment like a lathe stand or a work bench then your "over engineered" 4x2 frame is entirely reasonable nee necessary. As you come down in weight and punishment/vibration so you could reduce the frame member dimensions until perhaps you make a hall stand that's just going to take a vase or a lamp and it can have nice dainty tapered hardwood legs with perhaps inch and a half at the top and less at the bottom.

For internal dividers that wont take much weight like inside your router table, 1/4" ply is a great material. Light, strong, easy to cut and fix.

 

[Mr T]

Hi David

You could take a look at this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkdQHroz8ls

Chris

 

[wcndave]

Also here: http://www.mywoodworkmatters.com/buildi ... ress-free/ is a guide to my preferred method which removes the glue up step - but also relies on pocket holes.

You could screw in from sides as well if you don't have pocket jig, however you'd see them in the end product.

I found dealing with biscuits, dominos and glue up for shop cabinets was more trouble than it's worth.

I am in the middle of building about 40 of these things and have found the method in the link to be very fast, easy and accurate.

Enjoy!