Garden workshop - timber choice

[grainoftruth]

I'm looking for some timber selection advice for a garden workshop I've decided to build this summer, having had just about enough of clambering over the lawnmower and garden tools while I try to do woodwork in my current small garden shed.

The project is going to be a bit of a challenge as I need to design the workshop between trees and indeed there will be a mature oak tree growing through one corner of the building, but I'm fairly confident I can manage the design and construction. Size is about 7 x 4m.

The workshop will have a rustic, barn type look and I'd like to frame it in oak. Not huge sections but I do want posts and beams with timber cladding between.

So the question. If I'm making an oak frame can I use freshly cut green oak or do I need to buy seasoned wood? And, any recommendations for an economical but good supplier?

Thanks

Steve

 

[MikeG.]

Green!

It always was done in green oak, and for a pretty good example of how it is done have a look at EddieJ's thread "Simple Garage Construction".

Note the plinth!!! Nothing will work without a masonry plinth to raise the timbers off the ground.

Mike

 

[CWatters]

After a year involving obtaining PP I'm still at the early stages of something similar.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=24724

Most of the timber arrives this week and next hopefully.

Main part of the building will be on a concrete slab and brick plinth hidden by the cladding. The front posts will sit on brick pillars capped with four corner plynth bricks (was quite cheap to get 8 cut) and a sheet of lead to stop frost damage. I propose to clad with waney edge oak but might be persuaded to do it with Larch instead.

The frame will slightly unusual construction... The main box frame will be constructed from 4" sq treated softwood and 4x2 treated studs. This will be clad with WBP plywood to stop racking (The roof will be clay tiled). Then 4" sq oak posts will be fixed in the corners on the outside of the softwood frame to give the appearance of an oak frame. These won't actually be load bearing. Battens and oak cladding to be fitted between the posts.

At posts at the front will be 6" sq with an 8x6 beam on the top. May add diagonal wind braces but haven't decided yet. We don't have them on our house.

I've omitted some details from this description such as the membranes and DPC to keep it brief.

 

[grainoftruth]

Thanks guys,

I picked up the garden shed under the "working with green oak" topic yesterday - it looks like a great project.

My design is a little less architectural, I can't really get away with a decent pitched tiled roof in the location I have in mind and it won't be in very open view either as it will be amongst a lot of trees. But I am attracted by the challenge of a traditional oak building, so will make the effort.

The plinths will be a challenge as I'm looking at a raised floor construction because my site slopes away 600mm over the length and a concrete slab would damage several tree root systems.

I'll post designs and progress as I go

Steve

 

[Richard T]

Hi Steve
I've just finished the main part of my second framed building - a new workshop to house my new bandsaw opperations.

This is one of the middle supports; it is made from old oak, green cherry, green oak, green elm green beech and old ash in the top rail that is only just in veiw.

Much as I would have liked to use all green oak, I find that using what I have to hand works fine, is cheaper and very educational; not to mention eccentric.
Having said that, green oak cuts like butter; getting a big mortice out of piece of seasoned ash can take half a day.
The main things to remember with using green wood to join are "mortice greener than tennon" - (mortice shrinking around tennon good, tennon shinking in mortice bad) and "pegs must be old, dry, seasoned, stable." If I were you I'd start collecting blanks for pegs now so that they are good and shrunk before you come to draw/turn them down to size.
Have fun!