I have a table saw which I have been fiddling with for a while and never really given it the time or attention that it needs. I'm not sure of the terminology - it might be a panel saw but it is at least a sliding table saw.
It's more than capable of cutting 8x4 sheets if only I could fettle it. The saw can make a 4' cross cut. I will go out and get the physical dimensions (including the max distance from the blade to the rip fence) later.
It would come with 2 brand new and 1 very limited use freud blades (cross cut, rip and general/veneer I think but I'll check).
Some pictures of it:
As you can see to the immediate left of the blade is the large sliding section onto which is bolted the smaller table bit which holds the cross cutting arm. This is very easy to set to any angle. The sliding side table is very easy to remove - just undo the two olds and slide it off. The supporting arm then rests against the side of the saw (projecting out the back a little) if you need the space.
The motor is pretty quiet (which leads me to think that it's an induction motor) and seems pretty powerful.
The saw was upgraded a little by the previous owner:
- the sliding table was previously supported by a pretty insubstantial looking rod, this was replaced by the beefy green pivoting arm you can see - I think it is very similar to Record etc.
- the side table to the right was extended by adding a thick sheet of block board or similar. This upgrade was less successful as it has over time lead to issue 1 below as it is no longer co-planer with the aluminium main table.
I have a bunch of Aluminium extrusions, fences and bits - most of which were part of the saw in the first place but I'm pretty sure that some of them were not - these will be included in the sale just in case!
I have added two clamps - one at the front or the slide (arm over the cross cut guide) and one at the back (inclined plate) to make operating the saw on your own easier and ensure that I'm further from the blade. These originate (new) from the Axminster saw (£50-80 from memory) and have been modified to fit the t-track by 9fingers (excellent job Bob!) and Bob also made up a jig to allow a mag base to be used when measuring run out at the blade (which is pretty good at the moment). I will add pictures of these when I have unearthed the saw
As I mentioned at the start there are some issues which need to be resolved and to be brutal I just don't have the time to do this - I want to spend the limited time I have in the garage dealing with wood and not making the saw work properly.
Issues which need to be addressed:
1) Lack of co-planer between the side table and the slide. Expected resolution: Make a new side table in one piece (thick ply?), fettle the support bar a bit and fiddle with the adjustment on the slider (two man job for ease)
2) Tendency to tip forward under heavy load. Expected resolution: either tie it to the floor or attach an internal base and load with paving slabs moving centre of gravity backwards. I suspect that the wheeled base is making this worse.
3) Slide is binding when loaded with a full 18 mm ply sheet. Expected resolution: fiddle with the adjustment - I think I've got something a little wrong. It is possible that the slide will need to be stripped down and some (dry) lubrication added
4) Rise and Fall wheel is plastic and stiff to operate. Expected resolution: replace plastic wheel with turned wood / bought steel one. Fully clean and lubricate the rising mechanism
5) Extraction is not what is should be: Expected resolution: if fitted the new floor (2) will help, better fitting around the blade would also help, improved guarding with better extraction would make a massive difference.
6) It needs an out feed table
7) If using full sheets some support on the far left (as you operate the saw) would be very useful
8.) When you make a new side table it could be possible to fit a sacrificial strip which could act as a partial zero fit insert.
9) The scale on the rip fence is rather mangled - fitting a new scale or DRO will sort this out.
10) The Rip fence can not be placed next to the saw blade as the T piece is too long - fitting an extended aux fence would be one solution however an additional rip fence came with the saw which I suspect is the original (I've never got around to fitting it) which will probably solve the issue.
The saw is very quiet in operation and is pretty powerful.
As a sales pitch this sucks but on the other hand I really wouldn't want to mislead any of you. Its fundamentally a great saw which needs some TLC to work as well as it should and then I think that it will be at least the equal (and frankly I suspect superior) to the saws which I am looking to buy (Axminster / SIP etc) as a short cut to sawdust.
I'm open to offers (obviously you'd need to collect or arrange collection) however it breaks down into the Grey Cabinet, the red cabinet, the tables, the slider and the Green support bar can be unbolted.
Happy to answer any questions.
Miles
It's more than capable of cutting 8x4 sheets if only I could fettle it. The saw can make a 4' cross cut. I will go out and get the physical dimensions (including the max distance from the blade to the rip fence) later.
It would come with 2 brand new and 1 very limited use freud blades (cross cut, rip and general/veneer I think but I'll check).
Some pictures of it:
As you can see to the immediate left of the blade is the large sliding section onto which is bolted the smaller table bit which holds the cross cutting arm. This is very easy to set to any angle. The sliding side table is very easy to remove - just undo the two olds and slide it off. The supporting arm then rests against the side of the saw (projecting out the back a little) if you need the space.
The motor is pretty quiet (which leads me to think that it's an induction motor) and seems pretty powerful.
The saw was upgraded a little by the previous owner:
- the sliding table was previously supported by a pretty insubstantial looking rod, this was replaced by the beefy green pivoting arm you can see - I think it is very similar to Record etc.
- the side table to the right was extended by adding a thick sheet of block board or similar. This upgrade was less successful as it has over time lead to issue 1 below as it is no longer co-planer with the aluminium main table.
I have a bunch of Aluminium extrusions, fences and bits - most of which were part of the saw in the first place but I'm pretty sure that some of them were not - these will be included in the sale just in case!
I have added two clamps - one at the front or the slide (arm over the cross cut guide) and one at the back (inclined plate) to make operating the saw on your own easier and ensure that I'm further from the blade. These originate (new) from the Axminster saw (£50-80 from memory) and have been modified to fit the t-track by 9fingers (excellent job Bob!) and Bob also made up a jig to allow a mag base to be used when measuring run out at the blade (which is pretty good at the moment). I will add pictures of these when I have unearthed the saw
As I mentioned at the start there are some issues which need to be resolved and to be brutal I just don't have the time to do this - I want to spend the limited time I have in the garage dealing with wood and not making the saw work properly.
Issues which need to be addressed:
1) Lack of co-planer between the side table and the slide. Expected resolution: Make a new side table in one piece (thick ply?), fettle the support bar a bit and fiddle with the adjustment on the slider (two man job for ease)
2) Tendency to tip forward under heavy load. Expected resolution: either tie it to the floor or attach an internal base and load with paving slabs moving centre of gravity backwards. I suspect that the wheeled base is making this worse.
3) Slide is binding when loaded with a full 18 mm ply sheet. Expected resolution: fiddle with the adjustment - I think I've got something a little wrong. It is possible that the slide will need to be stripped down and some (dry) lubrication added
4) Rise and Fall wheel is plastic and stiff to operate. Expected resolution: replace plastic wheel with turned wood / bought steel one. Fully clean and lubricate the rising mechanism
5) Extraction is not what is should be: Expected resolution: if fitted the new floor (2) will help, better fitting around the blade would also help, improved guarding with better extraction would make a massive difference.
6) It needs an out feed table
7) If using full sheets some support on the far left (as you operate the saw) would be very useful
8.) When you make a new side table it could be possible to fit a sacrificial strip which could act as a partial zero fit insert.
9) The scale on the rip fence is rather mangled - fitting a new scale or DRO will sort this out.
10) The Rip fence can not be placed next to the saw blade as the T piece is too long - fitting an extended aux fence would be one solution however an additional rip fence came with the saw which I suspect is the original (I've never got around to fitting it) which will probably solve the issue.
The saw is very quiet in operation and is pretty powerful.
As a sales pitch this sucks but on the other hand I really wouldn't want to mislead any of you. Its fundamentally a great saw which needs some TLC to work as well as it should and then I think that it will be at least the equal (and frankly I suspect superior) to the saws which I am looking to buy (Axminster / SIP etc) as a short cut to sawdust
.I'm open to offers (obviously you'd need to collect or arrange collection) however it breaks down into the Grey Cabinet, the red cabinet, the tables, the slider and the Green support bar can be unbolted.
Happy to answer any questions.
Miles
