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I helped install some T&G boards at a mates house, his dad said that they would be more solid due to the T&G - HOWEVER....

we now need to pull up a board to fix a leaking pipe and due to the T&G we cant just pull one board - we are going to have to pull up half the boards in the room to get access to the pipe !
 
That's an argument I have heard before, but how much support the T&G actually affords I wouldn't like to say.

Roy.
 
Given the opprtunity to lift an original suspended ground floor, it would be daft not to batten and insulate between the joists. Then plain boards won't give drafts and and u save on heating. But remember if you have an open / conventional flued fire, leave air duct near hearth. This will prevent bigger drafts in the room and the airflow will be beneficial under the floor.

Ike
 
I've just done exactly this sort of thing to a house I'm renovating. There was signs of woodworm, I needed to rewire and plumb for central heating so I took up all the boards to inspect them, the joist and the insides of the air vents.

Some joists needed to go so it was simpler to replace almost all as the new sizes are slightly out from the old. The new sizes, to match, are 47 x 100. Many of the boards are ok so I treated them with Cuprinol as per the manufacturer's instructions. I patched in new boards which needed to be 22 x 150 in order to be the same thickness. These are also coated with preserver as they are in a risky location.

I cleaned out the vents which were full of dirt and insulated with 150mm insulation hung on netting.

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markymark12":2zjto2zk said:
Don't forget crowns down which stops the centre of the boards rising.

When you say crown down am I right in assuming you mean the centre of the tree? So that the rings as seen on the end of the plank rise towards the centre of the plank so that as it dries out the edges lift but are held down by the screws/nails.

Andrew
 

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