floating shelves

[engineer one]

hi there another project for the long list. :lol:

friend wants a couple of floating shelves. ok that bit is easy and so on.
but, as usual the client wants more.

two shelves that go in and out over their 3 foot length, in a kind of "S" curve. that is in the horizontal , and i figure i can use that new german router guide which you can screw on to guide.

but they want the shelves in white, and i wondered whether there is any
mfc thinner that 15 mm available?? also is there any flexible mfc available?

i could make them in ply, and paint, but i'd kind of like to make like easier.
overall they will be 50mm thick, 900 long, and swoop in and out from
150 to 300 and back to 200mm, is the thickness enough??

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

but they want the shelves in white, and i wondered whether there is any mfc thinner that 15 mm available?? also is there any flexible mfc available?

Yes. You can get 12mm and 8mm from a few suppliers. 12mm isn't stocked by many people, though, whereas 8mm MFC (and MF-MDF) is readily available in duotone, generally magnolia one side and white on the other from anywhere supplying the kitchen/bedroom trade. It's used for drawer bottoms, carcass backs, etc. I use it in bedroom furniture and it is thick enough and sufficiently rigid for all but the deepest drawer. A word of caution - this stuff only comes in "jumbos" (2.6 x 2.0 metre approx. sheets) so you'll need to make sure that whoever is selling to you can cut it down (not all sheet stock people can). In Manchester I'd try Hills Panel Products in Oldham as I know that they are stockists of the MFC (don't know about the MF-MDF though) - they also cut to size

Scrit

 

[jasonB]

Why do you need it so thin? two layers of 18mm with a sheet of 12mm MDF in the middle will give you 50mm overall thickness.

You can get 50mm wide iron on edging in white mel so no need for flexi board, should iron onto those slight curves easily.

What are you going to stick the layers with, I would have thought epoxy is the only way to get a bond on the melamine.

Jason

 

[Marky]

Funny enough I did these yesterday.

They are to be painted and are from mdf.

50mm thick. 9mm mdf top and 9mm bottom with 18mm x 32mm ribs inbetween to make a laminated rigid shelf.

32mm batten to the wall would make them float. The brackets are there because the customer said that they would be fully loading them with books and because they are 2.8m long there is a joint under the bracket.

They were strong enough but I get enough sleepless nights as it is.

The front face is 9mm mdf.

I would think this would work for you with the curves cut into the shelf and fleable mdf used for the face.

marky

http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/laguna ... pg&.src=ph

 

[jasonB]

Marky, I can't access your picture.

I've used 2mm MDF to face the front of laminated MDF shelves to stop any risk of the joints telegraphing through. All these are slightly curved but it does not show up well in the pic.

Jason

 

[Scrit]

Why do you need it so thin? two layers of 18mm with a sheet of 12mm MDF in the middle will give you 50mm overall thickness.

I assumed from what was said that there was a weight issue. Don't you find the sandwich method produces a very heavy shelf, especially if it's a long one?

You can get 50mm wide iron on edging in white mel so no need for flexi board, should iron onto those slight curves easily.

Good call on the edging. Forgot to mention that

What are you going to stick the layers with, I would have thought epoxy is the only way to get a bond on the melamine.

If it were 12mm or thicker I'd dowel. Below that I'd skim a shallow groove or two with of the router, sort of a shallow housing. That way you get an MDF or chipboard glue surface and use ordinary PVA. If you rough the glue surface with something like 40 or 60 grit sandpaper it's possible to get a reasonable bond with UF glue.

I like Marky's approach, but that does take spray gear. Im afraid I'm not a big fan of laminates or thin edgebanding - a case of familiarity breeds contempt?

BTW, nice job Jason

Scrit

 

[Marky]

sorry forgot to share album

its shared now

http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/laguna ... pg&.src=ph

Probably just me, but I never quote for the painting, I hate painting so much that I always supply to paint items unpainted at a cheaper cost. I do fully sand edges and apply sealer and resand etc. I have a painter who I would reconmend and as my painting skills make for a rubbish finish I always steer them to paint themselves or get in a good painter. Or at a push I have a mate who will spray, but extra cost.

I love carpentry, but I know my limitations on painting and anyway why do something you dont like..

Marky

 

[engineer one]

thanks guys. all good looking and valuable answers.

like scrit i am worried about the weight of a complete sandwich. the client's house has pretty bad plaster, and these will go on a dividing wall between two bedrooms in a terrace, so although it is load bearing, i do not want
to chance my arm by making the shelf, with the TV etc too heavy.

having tried the IKEA(sorry) floaters which have metal supports which
fit inside, and are screwed on for support, i certainly prefer the idea of
a wall batten and the shelf wrapped round it. will check whether the local supplier can provide the sheets of mfc, i know he can rip them.

i had thought that if i stuck with the thicker stuff, i would rout the edges using a 45 degree bit, and the face piece would be cut to height the same way, then there would only be the glue line which might not be too visible.

thanks again guys, will try to photograph the process once it gets out of my tiny brain :?

paul :wink:

 

[jasonB]

I assumed from what was said that there was a weight issue. Don't you find the sandwich method produces a very heavy shelf, especially if it's a long one?

Scrit

If the size of the shelf is quite large I tend to make the center from 50mm wide strips, one all round the visible edges and a few more equally spaced front to back. One advantage is they don't sag If I have any off cuts of ultralight MDF it usually finds its way into the "filling" of the sandwhich as it's too fluffy for any other use.

Engineer

Did you see my post on how I fix floating shelves at the bottom of this thread The condition of the plaster should not be an issue as the fixings should be well into the brickwork behind

Jason