Fitting glass to clock doors

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stuartpaul

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On the final stretch now, - just the glass to fit and it's nearly finished! :D

I will post some photos of the finished piece.

I'm just wondering how to fit the glass in a manner that will allow reasonably easy replacement if necessary. Initially thought of putty but of course that will go off rock hard and if I do need to replace then I'll be in trouble.

Glazier suggested just using beads but I feel this might allow rattles etc.

I'd prefer to have some 'cushioning' between door, glass and beading but not sure what to use. Silicon an option? I remember reading an article some time ago that suggested using chamois leather strips, - sounds like a reasonable approach just darken down the strips with some stain.

Any suggestions please?
 
I've used clear silicon in the past. Works really well but I'm not sure about how easy it would be to replace a pane though...
 
Using Chamois leather is an interesting idea. Rather than darkening the strips with a stain couldnt you just put a layer of black coloured pvc tape or similar round the edges of the glass where it wouldnt be seen behind the rebate (as you would with a mirror)? Just a thought.
Cheers Mike
 
Clear silocone applied sparingly will do nicely. I'm pretty sure there's one made specifically for the purpose, you should be able to get it at a local glazing supplier. Seal the wood in the rebate before fitting the glass and you should be able to remove it fairly easily if the need ever arises.

Mark
 
For most clock cases I use small sections of curved beading, or else a complete bead made of thin flexible 'dowelling'. This works for both circular, oval and rectangular panels and rattling is never an issue. Just make sure the beads are glued firmly to the surrounding frame or panel and not the glass itself!

I find that silicone or other materials detract from the look, as most people are concerned with the interior appearance as well as the outside.
 
Most of the clocks I have restored /cleaned have the glass puttied in and can be up to 220 years old ,have you a house full of delinquent children armed with slingshots? it can take donkeys years for the putty to go hard but if you want to be safe I would use beading and silicon as the glue/adhesive.
 
Many years ago when I replaced some glass in a door, I used a sort of chamois leather strip that was sold specifically for the purpose. I think it was called Welsh leather. It was simply folded around the edge of the glass before putting the glass in and adding the beading. It worked really well and any excess can be trimmed off with a Stanley knife. Stops all the rattling and is easy to remove should the glass ever need replacing. If you have a word with your local glass shop they should be able to advise you.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
I use a small bead of "Low Modulus" clear glazing silicon to stop rattles and then a small bead which can often be sprung in if you cut them right.

The leather is usually termed "wash leather" and is available in black and brown though it is becomming harder to fins with the use of manmade glazing strips particularly intumescent glazing seals for glazed fire doors

Jason
 
jasonB":2dlct397 said:
The leather is usually termed "wash leather" and is available in black and brown though it is becomming harder to fins with the use of manmade glazing strips particularly intumescent glazing seals for glazed fire doors

If the purpose-made stuff is unavailable, a piece of chamois leather cut into strips would probably work.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
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