dedee
Established Member
Wiley Horne":3vs8s13a said:
I'd love to be able to watch that being done. I cannot imagine it is as easy as you make it sound although having the right tool I am sure will help.
Andy
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- Thread starter MikeW
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I'd love to be able to watch that being done. I cannot imagine it is as easy as you make it sound although having the right tool I am sure will help.
Andy
AHoman
Established Member
Wiley Horne":3h4qx9pj said:
Hi Wiley,
Good for you! I am also very interested in re-sawing by hand and if this works well for you, please post some pics and let us know how it went. I'd try this with my 6 tpi rip but I fear that it is not tapered enough.
Hi Mike,
So, for resharpening a saw like this, how do you "joint" it?
-Andy
Wiley Horne
Established Member
Hi Andy,
Keen observation and you're right. I should have used an emoticon for 'sweat dripping down face'. Resaw talk is easy, but resaw isn't easy.
The main question is how fat do you have to cut to allow for wandering saw. I have made the sawcut you referenced in the past several months, a 40" cut in a 9" wide board, using the wrong saw--a 475mm Japanese saw toothed for cross cut. Why that saw?--It was the biggest saw I had. I had to cut for 3/16" in order to get 3/32" after planing, and the kerf was a mess (dog's breakfast? :lol: ). I am hoping that I will waste much less material with Mike's saw.
The reason that it's doable by a home dabbler like myself is that you can gauge a line all the way round the board. Then start at each corner and saw down two lines at once from each of the 4 corner 'headings'. If a clean start is made at the corner, then the saw is in the right plane and the job morphs into keeping it tracking in the right plane. Mike put a lot of taper in this saw from teeth to back, to keep the blade running free, plus allow me some room for correction. I'll report back how the theory works out. It worked for Mike, so the saw is good; the question now is whether I can cut it.
Wiley
Keen observation and you're right. I should have used an emoticon for 'sweat dripping down face'. Resaw talk is easy, but resaw isn't easy.
The main question is how fat do you have to cut to allow for wandering saw. I have made the sawcut you referenced in the past several months, a 40" cut in a 9" wide board, using the wrong saw--a 475mm Japanese saw toothed for cross cut. Why that saw?--It was the biggest saw I had. I had to cut for 3/16" in order to get 3/32" after planing, and the kerf was a mess (dog's breakfast? :lol: ). I am hoping that I will waste much less material with Mike's saw.
The reason that it's doable by a home dabbler like myself is that you can gauge a line all the way round the board. Then start at each corner and saw down two lines at once from each of the 4 corner 'headings'. If a clean start is made at the corner, then the saw is in the right plane and the job morphs into keeping it tracking in the right plane. Mike put a lot of taper in this saw from teeth to back, to keep the blade running free, plus allow me some room for correction. I'll report back how the theory works out. It worked for Mike, so the saw is good; the question now is whether I can cut it.
Wiley
dedee
Established Member
Wiley,
I hope you have a camera so that we can share this experience.
My basic attempts at resawing by hand (with help from the TS ) can be seen here
Until I can afford one of Mike's saws I am not inclined to do it again.
It took me longer to plane the boards flat & smooth than to make the anything but straight cut. If I was a poor workman I'd blame the tools :lol:
Andy
I hope you have a camera so that we can share this experience.
My basic attempts at resawing by hand (with help from the TS ) can be seen here
Until I can afford one of Mike's saws I am not inclined to do it again.
It took me longer to plane the boards flat & smooth than to make the anything but straight cut. If I was a poor workman I'd blame the tools :lol:
Andy
Wiley Horne
Established Member
Andy Homan,
Try your 6 tpi rip--why not? I probably should repeat that Mike's first recommendation was frame saw, a less expensive item, and indeed back when folks resawed veneer for a living, that's what they used. The narrower blade overcomes the binding and steering problem, and because the blade is in tension, it can be thinner and cut a thinner kerf (= less work). I just feel more comfortable with a plate saw, and am not doing this for a living, so don't have to be efficient. But try the saw you have--the key to it is either to get a starting kerf as Andy/London did, or else saw in from the corners with the saw tracking down two gauge lines at once. If you start right, the set of the teeth will probably give you enough room to manuever and stay on track. It's mainly a matter of sweat.
Andy from London,
I'll get photos. Your chisel cabinet is a great design, since when it is closed the chisels can't go anywhere, but then they are offered forward when in use. The resawn panels also add a lot to the aesthetics, with the bookmatched fleck in the oak. The strap handles are grand too. Really a fine design and fine work.
Wiley
Try your 6 tpi rip--why not? I probably should repeat that Mike's first recommendation was frame saw, a less expensive item, and indeed back when folks resawed veneer for a living, that's what they used. The narrower blade overcomes the binding and steering problem, and because the blade is in tension, it can be thinner and cut a thinner kerf (= less work). I just feel more comfortable with a plate saw, and am not doing this for a living, so don't have to be efficient. But try the saw you have--the key to it is either to get a starting kerf as Andy/London did, or else saw in from the corners with the saw tracking down two gauge lines at once. If you start right, the set of the teeth will probably give you enough room to manuever and stay on track. It's mainly a matter of sweat.
Andy from London,
I'll get photos. Your chisel cabinet is a great design, since when it is closed the chisels can't go anywhere, but then they are offered forward when in use. The resawn panels also add a lot to the aesthetics, with the bookmatched fleck in the oak. The strap handles are grand too. Really a fine design and fine work.
Wiley
Chris Knight
Established Member
Wiley,
Thanks for the details! I reckon you will have your work cut out and I take my hat off to you - please keep us posted with a photo or two.
I must say I have thought of trying it once or twice with a frame saw when my bandsaw has proved too small for the job in hand but I have thus far devised alternative ways around the problem!
Thanks for the details! I reckon you will have your work cut out and I take my hat off to you - please keep us posted with a photo or two.
I must say I have thought of trying it once or twice with a frame saw when my bandsaw has proved too small for the job in hand but I have thus far devised alternative ways around the problem!
A
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MikeW
Established Member
And here I do it again...engineer one":2pmhnp4u said:
A bit of a new Bubinga board. Had it reserved for making veneer from. Now it's saw handles...first saw from it, a No.9 12 ppi rip.
As for the rest of the posts...sorry I just came back into the thread. My hearty recommendation for sawing thin slices remains a frame saw. But, I have done it using a regular handsaw and Wiley's method works well, as does using a thin kef blade on a TS to establish the kerfs, finishing with a handsaw.
When using the cut corners/marking gauge technique, I use a gauge I sharpened with a very small, thin tip but the rest of the pin is filed square across. After initial scoring on the first two passes, the tip sinks in enough that the sharp corners of the upper part of the pin plows out a groove almost 1/16" wide, which is a little wider than Wiley's kerf from the new saw. Easy to see.
For that matter, a plow plane using an 1/8" cutter ran down both sides would also create an easy to follow groove. That is about the width of a TS blade's kerf. Hmm. Going to have to try this...
Take care, Mike
Paul Chapman
Established Member
Wow, Mike, the grain on that Bubinga looks so nice - like a redhead with her hair blowing in the wind. Cool man 8) 8)
Cheers,
Paul
Cheers,
Paul
A
Anonymous
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Mike have you ever done checkering like you get on a shotgun stock? Do you know if its hard to do? Or what tools do you use?
(please excuse lousy typing space bar is faulty :roll: )
Cheers Jonathan
Well its lousy in theeditingscreen ifnotontheboard :lol: :lol:
(please excuse lousy typing space bar is faulty :roll: )
Cheers Jonathan
Well its lousy in theeditingscreen ifnotontheboard :lol: :lol:
Alf
Established Member
I was doing my very best to stolidly ignore this thread and not give you the satisfaction and then you post this:
Oh brother.
('nuff said)
Trying to stay in denial but failing, Alf ](*,)
MikeW":227a46vw said:
Oh brother.
Trying to stay in denial but failing, Alf ](*,)
Colin C
Established Member
Mike
There is not a lot that I can say that has not been said already but where is my bib :tongue9: and my hat off to a great crafts man
There is not a lot that I can say that has not been said already but where is my bib :tongue9: and my hat off to a great crafts man
MikeW
Established Member
Ha--gotcha, Alf...
Tis pretty wood.
Thanks you, Colin, and the rest for a the high compliments. They make the world go 'round.
Take care, Mike
Tis pretty wood.
Thanks you, Colin, and the rest for a the high compliments. They make the world go 'round.
Take care, Mike
engineer one
Established Member
and we thought that you had sawn everything :lol: :lol:
paul
paul
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